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Institut Esthederm Illuminating Face Cream
Institut Esthederm

Institut Esthederm Illuminating Face Cream

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support
What the product description says
“Prevents the first signs of ageing Directions Apply morning and evening to clean, dry face and neck.”
Source: Feelunique

This product contains carnosine, creatine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.45%
CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.3–0.55%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.3–4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.25–0.5%
Moisturizing
13 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Illuminating Face Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: carnosine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone.

GlycerinKey activeEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–5.1%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey activeEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.3–4%
Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.15–0.3%
CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.45%
DimethiconeKey activeEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.3–1.6%
Decyl oleateKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~4.7–5.7%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey activeEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~2–2.5%
Hydrogenated polyisobuteneEffect: LowUsed to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~2.5–3.1%
IsohexadecaneEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.65–0.95%
Pentylene glycolEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%
Pyrus malus fruit extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.25–0.45%
Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.25–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 10 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (carnosine, superoxide dismutase) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - creatine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.15–0.3%
CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.45%
CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.3–0.55%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.3–4%
EscinEffect: LowA compound obtained from horse chestnut. It is claimed that this chemical can improve circulation, but there is no evidence available that it works in skin~0.25–0.5%
Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinateEffect: LowA stable derivative of pectin and vitamin C. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking. Helps create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulation~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.5–0.75%
Pyrus malus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.25–0.45%
Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.25–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 19 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.5%est.
EscinA compound obtained from horse chestnut. It is claimed that this chemical can improve circulation, but there is no evidence available that it works in skinHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Sodium bisulfiteA preservativeHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Steareth-21Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1–1.3%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.7–1.05%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.5–0.75%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinateA stable derivative of pectin and vitamin C. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking. Helps create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Sodium sulfiteHelps stabilize and preserve a product formulationMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Ci 17200A red colorantMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~3.3–4%est.
Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.25–0.5%est.
Decyl oleateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~4.7–5.7%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Decyl oleate~4.7–5.7%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Decyl oleate
Glycerin~4.2–5.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butyrospermum parkii butter~3.3–4%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Hydrogenated polyisobutene~2.5–3.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated polyisobutene
Cyclopentasiloxane~2–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Titanium dioxide~2.1–2.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Silica~1.7–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Dimethicone~1.3–1.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Steareth-21~1–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-21
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.7–1.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Mica~0.7–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica
Isohexadecane~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane
Tocopheryl acetate~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Phenoxyethanol~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Glyceryl polyacrylate~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to create a nice product texture and spread the product more easily on the skin

More about Glyceryl polyacrylate
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Disodium edta~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Creatine~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness

More about Creatine
Propylene glycol~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Sodium hydroxide~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer
Polysorbate 60~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Escin~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A compound obtained from horse chestnut. It is claimed that this chemical can improve circulation, but there is no evidence available that it works in skin

More about Escin
Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a gel-like product texture

More about Butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer
Mica~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica
Ci 77015~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77015
Bht~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Parfum~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Sclerotium gum~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Sorbitan isostearate~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate
Iron oxides~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides
Ci 77491~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A red colorant made of iron oxide. Typically is not irritating

More about Ci 77491
Triethoxycaprylylsilane~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A type of silicone that helps oil and water mix well together. Helps to disperse other ingredients, e.g. pigments, evenly in a formulation

More about Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Carnosine~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine
Morus alba leaf extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Morus alba leaf extract
Pyrus malus fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus malus fruit extract
Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Disodium adenosine triphosphate
Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A stable derivative of pectin and vitamin C. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking. Helps create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulation

More about Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate
Laminaria digitata extract~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract
Tin oxide~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant that can add a pearl-like appearance to the formulation

More about Tin oxide
Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Hydrogenated palm glycerides citrate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated palm glycerides citrate
Sodium methylparaben~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium methylparaben
Sodium bisulfite~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative

More about Sodium bisulfite
Sodium sulfite~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps stabilize and preserve a product formulation

More about Sodium sulfite
Pentylene glycol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Ci 17200~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A red colorant

More about Ci 17200
Propylparaben~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Propylparaben
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Superoxide dismutase~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants

More about Superoxide dismutase
Tromethamine~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Citric acid~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ingredient list view

Water, Decyl oleate, Glycerin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Cyclopentasiloxane, Titanium dioxide, Silica, Dimethicone, Steareth-21, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Mica, Isohexadecane, Tocopheryl acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Glyceryl polyacrylate, Chlorphenesin, Disodium edta, Creatine, Propylene glycol, Sodium hydroxide, Ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Escin, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer, Mica, Ci 77015, Bht, Parfum, Sclerotium gum, Sorbitan isostearate, Iron oxides, Ci 77491, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Carnosine, Morus alba leaf extract, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate, Laminaria digitata extract, Tin oxide, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated palm glycerides citrate, Sodium methylparaben, Sodium bisulfite, Sodium sulfite, Pentylene glycol, Ci 17200, Propylparaben, Ethylhexylglycerin, Superoxide dismutase, Tromethamine, Citric acid

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmeticssemanticscholar.org
  3. 3
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  4. 4
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  5. 5
    Dermal penetration of creatine from a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana and glycerol is linked to effective antiwrinkle and antisagging efficacy in male subjectsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Folic acid and creatine improve the firmness of human skin in vivoncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Institut Esthederm Illuminating Face Cream
Institut EsthedermIlluminating Face Cream
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Find on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.