Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Moisturizing
- Anti-oxidation
- Evens skin tone
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 3
Key actives
Product Summary
"Institut Esthederm - Excellage Hand Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Carnosine, glycerin, polyglycerin-3, saccharide isomerate and sodium lactate in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, helianthus annuus seed wax, jojoba esters and oryza sativa bran oil) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- We particularly like that there is a good concentration of Niacinamide (2.00% - 2.50%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
- This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.20% - 0.35%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
- This moisturizer also contains Peptides (hexapeptide-2 0.15% - 0.25%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.25% - 0.40% and palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.25% - 0.45%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
- Adenosine 0.30% - 0.50%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).
- Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiatic acid 0.30% - 0.50%, madecassic acid 0.30% - 0.50% and asiaticoside 0.25% - 0.45% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 41.70CA$ in Canada, for 57.92A$ in Australia and from 25.07£ up to 26.63£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Institut Esthederm Excellage Hand Cream 50ml is a hand cream with anti-ageing action.Part of the Excellage range, it is equipped with "Smart polysaccharide", an innovative ingredient capable of reactivating the skin's communication system, which is essential for its maintenance and firmness.Its formula acts on Density REPAIR® technology stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastin.Nutrition Camellia oil combined with Vitamin PP nourishes the skin and strengthens the skin barrier.Stains thanks to the patented PHOTO REVERSE, this treatment visibly lightens stains.Hands are immediately comforted and pleasantly velvety to the touch.
Source: Cocoon Center
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: asiaticoside, carnosine, hexapeptide-2, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, carnosine) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Evens skin tone
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: stearyl glycyrrhetinate.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Throughout the day, they remain intensely moisturized, even after washing.Made in France.
Source: Cocoon Center
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
carnosine, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed wax, jojoba esters.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: hexapeptide-2, niacinamide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
A fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation
Helps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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Key Actives
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Potential irritants
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
A fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation
Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together
Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products
Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
Helps oil and water mix together
Comedogenic ingredients
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps oil and water mix together
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
All ingredients
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Helps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture
Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying
A plant oil that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help restore skin's barrier function. Might have an anti-oxidant effect
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
A fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil
Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together
Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
Helps oil and water mix together
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Corn starch modified, Propanediol, Tridecyl trimellitate, Unknown, Niacinamide, Oryza sativa bran oil, Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Tocopheryl acetate, C10-18 triglycerides, Dipropylene glycol, Camellia japonica seed oil, Butylene glycol, Jojoba esters, Pentylene glycol, Stearyl glycyrrhetinate, Palmaria palmata extract, Maltodextrin, 1,2-hexanediol, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Glycol, Sodium citrate, Xanthan gum, Cetyl alcohol, Parfum, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Helianthus annuus seed wax, Unknown, Andrographis paniculata leaf extract, Propylene glycol, Adenosine, Asiaticoside, Madecassic acid, Asiatic acid, Polyglycerin-3, Carbomer, Sodium lactate, Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, Polysorbate 20, Acacia decurrens flower wax, Carnosine, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Saccharide isomerate, Tocopherol, Laminaria digitata extract, Ascorbic acid, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Hexapeptide-2
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Study on the Composition of Rice Bran Oil and Its Higher Free Fatty Acids Value
- The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediols
- Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique
- Centella asiatica in cosmetology
- Contact dermatitis due to Madecassol
- Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview
- Contact dermatitis due to Madecassol
- Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview
- Final Report of the Safety Assessment of Acacia Catechu Gum, Acacia Concinna Fruit Extract, Acacia Dealbata Leaf Extract, Acacia Dealbata Leaf Wax, Acacia Decurrens Extract, Acacia Farnesiana Extract, Acacia Farnesiana Flower Wax, Acacia Farnesiana Gum, Acacia Senegal Extract, Acacia Senegal Gum, and Acacia Senegal Gum Extract1
- Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care products
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health