Institut Esthederm

Institut Esthederm Eau Cellulaire Melting Moisturizing Cream

Name: Institut Esthederm - Eau Cellulaire Melting Moisturizing Cream
Brand: Institut Esthederm

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing

18 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Eau Cellulaire Melting Moisturizing Cream”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: carnosine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, beta-sitosterol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.5–3%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~5.8–7.1%

CarnosineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.45%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%

Beta-sitosterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated~0.35–0.65%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.6–0.95%

Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~3.2–3.9%

HexyldecanolKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.5–1.8%

Brassica campestris sterolsKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelp soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.55–0.8%

Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.25–0.45%

C13-14 isoparaffin· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency~0.35–0.6%

Dicaprylyl ether· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients~1.7–2.1%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.6–0.85%

Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.3%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 5 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (carnosine) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.45%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%

Pyrus malus seed extractEffect: LowApple seed extract. Might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.25–0.45%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.3%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: carnosine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%

CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

4 strong irritants: Parfum, Linalool + 2 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Alpha-isomethyl iononeA fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

Steareth-2Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.2–1.5%est.

Steareth-21Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.75–1.15%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.55–0.8%est.

MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationMedium~0.45–0.7%est.

PolyacrylamideUsed to improve product texture and help oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.5–0.7%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.65%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Laureth-7Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Pyrus malus seed extractApple seed extract. Might help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Calcium chlorideHelps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritatingMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~3.2–3.9%est.

Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.15–0.3%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Dimethicone~5.8–7.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Methylsilanol mannuronate~4.4–5.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Methylsilanol mannuronate

Ethylhexyl palmitate~3.2–3.9%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate

Glycerin~2.5–3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Propanediol~2–2.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Dicaprylyl ether~1.7–2.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients

More about Dicaprylyl ether

Hexyldecanol~1.5–1.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hexyldecanol

Steareth-2~1.2–1.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-2

Boron nitride~1–1.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to absord oil and evenly disperse other ingredients (for example, pigment) in product formulation

More about Boron nitride

Steareth-21~0.75–1.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-21

Butylene glycol~0.6–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Cetyl alcohol~0.6–0.95%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Pentylene glycol~0.55–0.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Methylpropanediol~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Methylpropanediol

Polyacrylamide~0.5–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to improve product texture and help oil and water mix together

More about Polyacrylamide

Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.4–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Beta-sitosterol~0.35–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated

More about Beta-sitosterol

C13-14 isoparaffin~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency

More about C13-14 isoparaffin

Sodium citrate~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Hexanediol~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps dissolve other ingredients

More about Hexanediol

Parfum~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Carnosine~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine

Sodium chloride~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride

Laureth-7~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Laureth-7

Citric acid~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Aminoethanesulfinic acid~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Aminoethanesulfinic acid

Ceramide np~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Propylene glycol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol

Adenosine~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Potassium chloride~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Potassium chloride

Biosaccharide gum-4~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps improve the product texture

More about Biosaccharide gum-4

Sodium bicarbonate~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps regulate the product pH

More about Sodium bicarbonate

Pyrus malus seed extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Apple seed extract. Might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Pyrus malus seed extract

Brassica campestris sterols~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Brassica campestris sterols

Disodium phosphate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation

More about Disodium phosphate

Magnesium sulfate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Magnesium sulfate

Linalool~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Potassium phosphate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps regulate the pH of the formulation

More about Potassium phosphate

Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Citronellol~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Disodium adenosine triphosphate

Laminaria digitata extract~0.15–0.3%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract

Alpha-isomethyl ionone~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Alpha-isomethyl ionone

Calcium chloride~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritating

More about Calcium chloride

Ingredient list view

Water, Dimethicone, Methylsilanol mannuronate, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl ether, Hexyldecanol, Steareth-2, Boron nitride, Steareth-21, Butylene glycol, Cetyl alcohol, Pentylene glycol, Methylpropanediol, Polyacrylamide, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Beta-sitosterol, C13-14 isoparaffin, Sodium citrate, Hexanediol, Parfum, Caprylyl glycol, Carnosine, Sodium chloride, Laureth-7, Citric acid, Aminoethanesulfinic acid, Ceramide np, Propylene glycol, Adenosine, Potassium chloride, Biosaccharide gum-4, Sodium bicarbonate, Pyrus malus seed extract, Brassica campestris sterols, Disodium phosphate, Magnesium sulfate, Linalool, Potassium phosphate, Tocopherol, Citronellol, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Laminaria digitata extract, Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Calcium chloride

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Institut EsthedermEau Cellulaire Melting Moisturizing CreamYOUR PRODUCT	KLAVUURejuve Pearlsation Multi Pearl Peptide Cream	HYGGEEAll-In-One Cream	23 years oldBakuchiol A Cream
Match	—	62%	62%	62%
Price	$42.93	$29.10−$13.83	$25.28−$17.65	$18.00−$24.93
Shared key ingredients	—	5 of 7	5 of 7	4 of 7
Key difference	—	Niacinamide	Niacinamide	Niacinamide
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"Institut Esthederm - Eau Cellulaire Melting Moisturizing Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Humectants in this product (carnosine, glycerin, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and propylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Ceramide np, beta-sitosterol, dimethicone, brassica campestris sterols and cetyl alcohol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.30% - 0.55%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
Adenosine 0.25% - 0.45%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.