Institut Esthederm Bronz Repair Protective Anti-Wrinkle and Firming Face Care Moderate Sun

Name: Institut Esthederm - Bronz Repair Protective Anti-Wrinkle and Firming Face Care Moderate Sun
Brand: Institut Esthederm

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

32 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Bronz Repair Protective Anti-Wrinkle and Firming Face Care Moderate Sun”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: artemia extract, aspartic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cera alba, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1

CarnosineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.45%

Cera albaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.8–1.2%

DextranKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar~0.1–0.2%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2–2.5%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.45%

MannitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Oryza sativa bran oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.3–0.55%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.25–0.45%

TrioleinKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Aspartic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.2–0.4%

Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%

Artemia extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighZooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.25–0.45%

Hydrolyzed soy proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.25–0.45%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1–1.2%

Hydrolyzed wheat proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten~0.25–0.45%

CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~1.2–1.4%

Hydrogenated castor oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~0.25–0.5%

Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.25–0.45%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.5%

Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~4.5–5.5%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.4%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~2.3–2.9%

Polysilicone-11Effect: LowA silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel~0.25–0.5%

Oleic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness~0.3–0.55%

Copper gluconateUnder-dosedEffect: HighTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing~0.25–0.45%

Paraffinum liquidumUnder-dosedEffect: HighMineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.2–0.4%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%

Anti-aging

9 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

What the product description says

“Bronz Repair Protective Anti-Wrinkle and Firming Face Care Moderate Sun”

From product name

This product contains asiaticoside, aspartic acid, carnosine, creatine, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.2–0.4%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.4–0.6%

CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.45%

Aspartic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

Copper gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing~0.25–0.45%

Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.2–0.4%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 11 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, carnosine, glycyrrhetinic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - creatine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: HighActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.3–0.6%

CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.45%

CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.4–0.6%

Medicago sativa extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.25–0.45%

Artemia extractEffect: LowZooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.25–0.45%

Hydrolyzed soy proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.25–0.45%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.45–0.7%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycyrrhetinic acid.

Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: MediumActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.3–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

12 strong irritants: Parfum, Linalool + 10 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 36 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.3–0.6%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.4%est.

Hexyl cinnamalA fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritantHigh~0.25–0.4%est.

HydroxycitronellalA fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.4%est.

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.25–0.4%est.

Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.4%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.4%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.4%est.

Isoeugenol—High~0.2–0.4%est.

CoumarinA fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Ethylhexyl methoxycryleneHelps improve stability of sunscreen filters and boost their effectivenessMedium~3.1–3.8%est.

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium~1.9–2.3%est.

Cera albaForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergenMedium~0.8–1.2%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.45–0.7%est.

Glycyrrhetinic acidActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentationMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Hydrogenated castor oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Hydrolyzed wheat proteinCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to glutenMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Oleic acidHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin drynessMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Medicago sativa extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Copper gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missingMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

BhtA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Ci 17200A red colorantMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.2–0.4%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Dicaprylyl carbonate~4.5–5.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate

Dipropylene glycol~4.3–5.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol

Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene~3.1–3.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps improve stability of sunscreen filters and boost their effectiveness

More about Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene

Glyceryl stearate~2.3–2.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Glycerin~2–2.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Peg-100 stearate~1.7–2.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate

Hexyl methoxycinnamate

Not recognized

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~1.9–2.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

Cyclopentasiloxane~1.2–1.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane

Cetyl alcohol~1–1.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Cera alba~0.8–1.2%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Cera alba

Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer~0.55–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Helps thicken the product consistency

More about Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer

Tocopheryl acetate~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Creatine~0.4–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness

More about Creatine

Parfum~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Glycyrrhetinic acid~0.3–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation

More about Glycyrrhetinic acid

Mannitol~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Mannitol

Methylpropanediol~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Methylpropanediol

Oryza sativa bran oil~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Oryza sativa bran oil

Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate

Butylene glycol~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Trilinolein~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Trilinolein

Paraffinum liquidum~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Mineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function

More about Paraffinum liquidum

Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin

Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Acetyl tyrosine~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Acetyl tyrosine

Aspartic acid~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles

More about Aspartic acid

Cerium oxide~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cerium oxide

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Polyethylene~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicken the product's texture

More about Polyethylene

Disodium edta~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Hydrogenated castor oil~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Hydrogenated castor oil

Sodium dextran sulfate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sodium dextran sulfate

Polysilicone-11~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel

More about Polysilicone-11

Hydrolyzed soy protein~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing

More about Hydrolyzed soy protein

Oleoyl tyrosine~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Oleoyl tyrosine

Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Tripalmitin~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Tripalmitin

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed wheat protein~0.25–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten

More about Hydrolyzed wheat protein

Linalool~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Hexyl cinnamal~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritant

More about Hexyl cinnamal

Hydroxycitronellal~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritating

More about Hydroxycitronellal

Oleic acid~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness

More about Oleic acid

Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to increase stability of product formulations

More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Propylene glycol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol

Medicago sativa extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Medicago sativa extract

Triolein~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Triolein

Alcohol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Silica~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica

Limonene~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Carbomer~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Sodium lactate~0.25–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate

Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate

Tristearin~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Tristearin

Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Benzyl benzoate~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate

Polysorbate 20~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Geraniol~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Copper gluconate~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliationAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing

More about Copper gluconate

Citronellol~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Carnosine~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine

Asiaticoside~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside

Artemia extract~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Artemia extract

Madecassic acid~0.25–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid

Bht~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Bht

Asiatic acid~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizing

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid

Triarachidin~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Triarachidin

Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Isoeugenol~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Isoeugenol

Coumarin~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritating

More about Coumarin

Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Disodium adenosine triphosphate

Laminaria digitata extract~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract

Citral~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral

Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.2–0.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.2–0.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

Ci 17200~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A red colorant

More about Ci 17200

Hexapeptide-1~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hexapeptide-1

Dextran~0.1–0.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar

More about Dextran

Ingredient list view

Water, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Dipropylene glycol, Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, Glyceryl stearate, Glycerin, Peg-100 stearate, Unknown, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl alcohol, Cera alba, Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, Tocopheryl acetate, Creatine, Parfum, Glycyrrhetinic acid, Mannitol, Methylpropanediol, Oryza sativa bran oil, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Butylene glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Trilinolein, Paraffinum liquidum, Chlorphenesin, Xanthan gum, Acetyl tyrosine, Aspartic acid, Cerium oxide, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Polyethylene, Disodium edta, Hydrogenated castor oil, Sodium dextran sulfate, Polysilicone-11, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Oleoyl tyrosine, Sodium hydroxide, Tripalmitin, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Linalool, Hexyl cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Oleic acid, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Propylene glycol, Medicago sativa extract, Triolein, Alcohol, Silica, Limonene, Carbomer, Sodium lactate, Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate, Tristearin, Caprylyl glycol, Benzyl benzoate, Polysorbate 20, Geraniol, Copper gluconate, Citronellol, Carnosine, Asiaticoside, Artemia extract, Madecassic acid, Bht, Asiatic acid, Triarachidin, Tocopherol, Isoeugenol, Coumarin, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Laminaria digitata extract, Citral, Potassium sorbate, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Ci 17200, Hexapeptide-1, Dextran

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Product summary

"Institut Esthederm - Bronz Repair Protective Anti-Wrinkle and Firming Face Care Moderate Sun" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Artemia extract, aspartic acid, carnosine, dextran and glycerin in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, oryza sativa bran oil, cera alba and helianthus annuus seed oil in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.20% - 0.40% and palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.20% - 0.40%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiatic acid 0.25% - 0.50%, madecassic acid 0.25% - 0.45% and asiaticoside 0.20% - 0.40% The Centella Asiatica Actives, even in low concentration, can help reduce inflammation in skin, strengthen the skin barrier and reduce photodamage. They can also help to decrease scarring.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e, copper gluconate and mineral oil

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 65.04£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 41 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Efficacy of barrier creams in comparison to skin care products in dental laboratory technicians--a controlled trialncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Dermal penetration of creatine from a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana and glycerol is linked to effective antiwrinkle and antisagging efficacy in male subjectsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Folic acid and creatine improve the firmness of human skin in vivoncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
The Creatine Kinase System in Human Skin: Protective Effects of Creatine Against Oxidative and UV Damage In Vitro and In Vivosciencedirect.com
6
Glycyrrhetinic acid, the active principle of licorice, can reduce the thickness of subcutaneous thigh fat through topical applicationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
Effects of topical application of B‐Resorcinol and Glycyrrhetinic acid monotherapy and in combination with fractional CO2 laser treatment for benign hand hyperpigmentation treatmentonlinelibrary.wiley.com
8
18β-Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glabridin Prevent Oxidative DNA Fragmentation in UVB-irradiated Human Keratinocyte Culturesar.iiarjournals.org
9
Study on the Composition of Rice Bran Oil and Its Higher Free Fatty Acids Valuelink.springer.com
10
A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oilncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Acetyl aspartic acid, a novel active ingredient, demonstrates potential to improve signs of skin ageing: from consumer need to clinical proofncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmnessncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
14
Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
15
Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
16
Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
17
Final report on the safety assessment of Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate SE, Ricinoleic Acid, Potassium Ricinoleate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Zinc Ricinoleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Ethyl Ricinoleate, Glycol Ricinoleate, Isopropyl Ricinoleate, Methyl Ricinoleate, and Octyldodecyl Ricinoleatencbi.nlm.nih.gov
18
Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial Productionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
19
Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
20
Extracts from Glycine max (soybean) induce elastin synthesis and inhibit elastase activityonlinelibrary.wiley.com
21
Dermatological and cosmeceutical benefits of Glycine max (soybean) and its active componentsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
Safety Assessment of Soy Peptides as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
23
Wheat in skin caremdedge.com
24
Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oilsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
25
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0168365995000887sciencedirect.com
26
Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
27
Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
28
Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
29
Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
30
Antioxidant Activity and Cytotoxicity of Medicago sativa L. Seeds and Herb Extract on Skin Cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
31
Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extractsec.europa.eu
32
Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivityncbi.nlm.nih.gov
33
Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care productssciencedirect.com
34
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
35
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
36
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
37
The Effects of Purified Artemia Extract Proteins on Proliferation, Differentiation and Apoptosis of Human Leukemic HL-60 Cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
39
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
40
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
41
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu

Institut EsthedermBronz Repair Protective Anti-Wrinkle and Firming Face Care Moderate Sun

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