INNOAESTHETICS Epigen Urban Day Cream SPF 20

INNOAESTHETICS Epigen Urban Day Cream SPF 20

SPF 20Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium·3 UV filters
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Works for

2 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Sun protection
SPF 20 · 3 UV filters · Broad spectrum
Weak protectionSPF under 30
SPF 20Broad spectrumChemical filtersNo white cast

This product offers broad spectrum sun protection, but it is weak. We recommend to use a broad spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30.

UV spectrum
UVB290–320 nmUVA II320–340 nmUVA I340–400 nm
Octinoxate
Octocrylene
Avobenzone
FilterCoverageWhat it doesEst. amount
OctinoxateEthylhexyl MethoxycinnamateUVBOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating~1.8–2.2%
OctocryleneUVB Photo-stable A weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen~0.75–1.1%
AvobenzoneButyl MethoxydibenzoylmethaneUVA1Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.~2.3–2.8%
~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels
Moisturizing
12 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Epigen Urban Day Cream SPF 20”
From product name

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": galactoarabinan, glycerin.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ferric hexapeptide-35

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.8–5.9%
Ferric hexapeptide-35HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
GalactoarabinanKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.2–0.4%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.15–0.3%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.3–1.6%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.45%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~3.9–4.8%
Tremella fuciformis extractEffect: LowA mushroom extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.4–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.25%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.6%
Anti-aging
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains ferric hexapeptide-35. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works. The biggest anti-aging effect in this product comes from sun protection. Sun damage is the main factor causing early signs of skin aging. We, however, do not recommend using this product as a sunscreen because the protection it offers is not strong enough).

Ferric hexapeptide-35Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.4–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Parfum, Alcohol denat.
Medium risk
We flagged 22 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritatingHigh~1.8–2.2%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.3–0.5%est.
Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
PhenylpropanolHelps mask the smell of other ingredients and helps preserve the product formulationHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Sodium acrylates copolymerUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~1.9–2.4%est.
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium~2.3–2.8%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.1–1.3%est.
Schisandra chinensis fruit extractA berry extract that might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skinMedium~0.75–1.15%est.
OctocryleneA weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreenMedium~0.75–1.1%est.
Narcissus tazetta bulb extractMight contain compounds called dormins that in theory could help lighten skin and reduce hyperpigmentation, but solid research is lackingMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
Tremella fuciformis extractA mushroom extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
GalactoarabinanHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Sea saltUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Polyvinyl alcoholHelps improve the product textureMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.4–0.6%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.8–5.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Dicaprylyl carbonate~3.9–4.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Potassium olivoyl pca~3.4–4.2%
Formula
Sodium acrylates copolymer~1.9–2.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylates copolymer
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~2.3–2.8%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate~1.8–2.2%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Sun protection

Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating

More about Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
Butylene glycol~1.3–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Potassium cetyl phosphate~1.1–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Schisandra chinensis fruit extract~0.75–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A berry extract that might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin

More about Schisandra chinensis fruit extract
Phenoxyethanol~0.6–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Octocrylene~0.75–1.1%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

A weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Octocrylene
Narcissus tazetta bulb extract~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-oxidation

Might contain compounds called dormins that in theory could help lighten skin and reduce hyperpigmentation, but solid research is lacking

More about Narcissus tazetta bulb extract
Benzyl alcohol~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.4–0.6%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Lecithin~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Potassium sorbate~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Parfum~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Sodium citrate~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Tremella fuciformis extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A mushroom extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Tremella fuciformis extract
1,2-hexanediol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Galactoarabinan~0.25–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Galactoarabinan
Phospholipids~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Sorbitan stearate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Citric acid~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Phosphoric acid~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps regulate pH level of products

More about Phosphoric acid
Biosaccharide gum-4~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps improve the product texture

More about Biosaccharide gum-4
Sodium phytate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium phytate
Sodium carrageenan~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Sodium carrageenan
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Tetrapeptide-26~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Ferric hexapeptide-35~0.2–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Ferric hexapeptide-35
Cocamide mea~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Cocamide mea
Palmitoyl heptapeptide-27~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Palmitoyl oligopeptide-78~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Palmitoyl octapeptide-24~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Chlorphenesin~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Alcohol denat.~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.
Tocopherol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Sea salt~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Sea salt
Glyceryl caprylate~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Lactic acid/glycolic acid copolymer~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Phenylpropanol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Helps mask the smell of other ingredients and helps preserve the product formulation

More about Phenylpropanol
Polyvinyl alcohol~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps improve the product texture

More about Polyvinyl alcohol
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Potassium olivoyl pca, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Butylene glycol, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Schisandra chinensis fruit extract, Phenoxyethanol, Octocrylene, Narcissus tazetta bulb extract, Benzyl alcohol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Lecithin, Potassium sorbate, Parfum, Sodium citrate, Tremella fuciformis extract, 1,2-hexanediol, Galactoarabinan, Phospholipids, Sorbitan stearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric acid, Phosphoric acid, Biosaccharide gum-4, Sodium phytate, Sodium carrageenan, Xanthan gum, Caprylyl glycol, Tetrapeptide-26, Ferric hexapeptide-35, Cocamide mea, Palmitoyl heptapeptide-27, Palmitoyl oligopeptide-78, Palmitoyl octapeptide-24, Sodium benzoate, Chlorphenesin, Alcohol denat., Tocopherol, Sea salt, Glyceryl caprylate, Lactic acid/glycolic acid copolymer, Phenylpropanol, Polyvinyl alcohol

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Product summary

"INNOAESTHETICS - Epigen Urban Day Cream SPF 20" offers broad spectrum protection. It means that it protects from both UVA and UVB rays (you can remember UVB as "burning" sunlight - they cause sunburn. You can remember UVA rays as "aging" - they do not lead to sunburn, but they cause photodamage and contribute to early signs of skin aging and hyperpigmentation). On the negative side, the SPF of it is not high enough. We recommend to use a sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily.

Its formula is also hydrating, so you might not need an additional moistruizer during the day.

Sunscreen filters

This is a so-called "chemical" sunscreen. It means that it uses organic UV filters. They typically offer good sun protection and rarely leave a white cast, but they can be irritating for some people with sensitive skin. The UV filters in this sunscreen are: avobenzone 2.30% - 2.80%, octinoxate 1.80% - 2.20% and octocrylene 0.75% - 1.10%.

Irritation risk

We assess the overall irritancy of this product to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 5 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
INNOAESTHETICS Epigen Urban Day Cream SPF 20
INNOAESTHETICSEpigen Urban Day Cream SPF 20

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