Indie Lee Retinol Alternative Cream

Indie Lee Retinol Alternative Cream

Efficacy62/100IrritancyMedium
Edit

Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
18 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Retinol Alternative Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: anhydroxylitol, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

XylitylglucosideKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%
AnhydroxylitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function~0.25–0.45%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.1–2.5%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~6.3–7.7%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~3.2–4%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.1–1.3%
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.25–0.5%
Mangifera indica seed butterKey activeEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.5–0.8%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~1.6–1.9%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.4–2.9%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.5–0.75%
MelKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and attract water to it~0.45–0.65%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~1.2–1.5%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.4–0.65%
C15-19 alkaneEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~1.7–2.1%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.2–0.35%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.35–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Anti-aging
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“This high-performance cream is formulated with natural retinol alternative rambutan for improved appearance of elasticity, firmness, fine lines and wrinkles.”
Source: Credo Beauty

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - butyrospermum parkii butter - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.1–2.5%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.2–0.35%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Sodium anisate
Medium risk
We flagged 10 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Sodium anisateUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~6.3–7.7%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~1.2–1.5%est.
Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.4–0.65%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.35–0.6%est.
GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Sodium levulinateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium99%
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~2.1–2.5%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.4–2.9%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~6.3–7.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Propanediol~4.1–5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~3.2–4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Cetearyl alcohol~2.4–2.9%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Butyrospermum parkii butter~2.1–2.5%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
C15-19 alkane~1.7–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about C15-19 alkane
Squalane~1.6–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Olea europaea fruit oil~1.2–1.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Glycerin~1.1–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Euphorbia cerifera wax~0.95–1.15%
Formula
Cetearyl olivate~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Mangifera indica seed butter~0.5–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Mangifera indica seed butter
Cetearyl glucoside~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside
Cetyl alcohol~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Sorbitan olivate~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder
Mel~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and attract water to it

More about Mel
Harungana madagascariensis extract~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Nephelium lappaceum leaf extract~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.35–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin

More about Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
Xylitylglucoside~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitylglucoside
Anhydroxylitol~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function

More about Anhydroxylitol
Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Xylitol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Maltodextrin~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Gluconolactone~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone
Sodium levulinate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium levulinate
Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium anisate~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Sodium anisate
Citric acid99%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Origin of total/ 99% d'origine naturelle du total
Not recognized
Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Propanediol, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Cetearyl alcohol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, C15-19 alkane, Squalane, Olea europaea fruit oil, Glycerin, Euphorbia cerifera wax, Cetearyl olivate, Mangifera indica seed butter, Cetearyl glucoside, Cetyl alcohol, Sorbitan olivate, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, Mel, Harungana madagascariensis extract, Nephelium lappaceum leaf extract, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Tocopherol, Xylitol, Xanthan gum, Maltodextrin, Gluconolactone, Sodium levulinate, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Sodium anisate, Citric acid, Unknown

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 20 studies and safety reviews.

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Indie Lee Retinol Alternative Cream
Indie LeeRetinol Alternative Cream

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