Hourglass Cosmetics Equilibrium Resurfacing Retinoid Treatment
Works for
Anti-agingNiacinamide, Retinyl propionateWorks well
“Minimizes the look of fine lines, wrinkles”
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: retinyl propionate.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Evens skin toneNiacinamide, Retinyl propionate + 2 moreWorks well
“Reduces the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation”
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: dilauryl thiodipropionate, hexylresorcinol, retinyl propionate.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Anti-blemishNiacinamide, Retinyl propionateWorks well
“Formulated with a blend of retinoid, hexylresorcinol and niacinamide, this treatment works to reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation.”
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: retinyl propionate
ExfoliationNo ingredient credited for this claimNot delivered
“A lightweight resurfacing treatment that boosts clarity, helps even skin texture and tone for more youthful-looking skin with a healthy glow.”
This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.
MoisturizingNot advertised by the brand · Niacinamide, Isopropyl myristate + 8 moreWorks well
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, butylene glycol.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide
Anti-oxidationNot advertised by the brand · HexylresorcinolMay help
This product contains antioxidants (hexylresorcinol) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy2 strong irritants: Retinyl propionate, Dilauryl thiodipropionateMedium risk
Comedogenic1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale1 flagged
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Ingredients
Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.
Water~40–60%
Isopropyl myristate~5.4–8.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
An emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic
More about Isopropyl myristateButylene glycol~3.6–5.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
More about Butylene glycolCaprylic/capric triglyceride~2.9–4.3%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
More about Caprylic/capric triglycerideGlycerin~2.2–3.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinNiacinamide~1.7–2.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
More about NiacinamidePentylene glycol~1.5–2.2%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
More about Pentylene glycolAcrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~1.2–1.8%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together
More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerCetyl alcohol~1.1–1.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
More about Cetyl alcoholPolysorbate 20~0.85–1.3%
Hexylresorcinol~0.55–1.25%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals in skin
More about HexylresorcinolPhenoxyethanol~0.4–0.95%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
More about PhenoxyethanolRetinyl propionate~0.35–0.85%
- Irritation risk
- High
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde
More about Retinyl propionateDilauryl thiodipropionate~0.2–0.8%
- Irritation risk
- High
Helps preserve the product formulation. It also can have a skin lightening effect. It can be irritating.
More about Dilauryl thiodipropionateDisodium edta~0.15–0.7%
Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.15–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to increase stability of product formulations
More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamatePotassium hydroxide~0.1–0.5%
Palmitic acid~0.1–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it
More about Palmitic acidPhospholipids~0.05–0.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product
More about PhospholipidsLecithin~0.1–0.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
More about LecithinBht~0.05–0.1%
Ingredient list view
Water, Isopropyl myristate, Butylene glycol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Pentylene glycol, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Cetyl alcohol, Polysorbate 20, Hexylresorcinol, Phenoxyethanol, Retinyl propionate, Dilauryl thiodipropionate, Disodium edta, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Potassium hydroxide, Palmitic acid, Phospholipids, Lecithin, Bht
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Worth comparing, line by line.
Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.
| Hourglass CosmeticsEquilibrium Resurfacing Retinoid TreatmentYOUR PRODUCT | Paula's choiceTriple Active Total Repair Serum | endota spaPotent Brightening Serum | flounCarrot Blending Serum | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Match | — | 99% | 92% | 91% |
| Price | ≈ $106.01 | $48.00≈ −$58.01 | $101.72≈ −$4.29 | $21.60≈ −$84.41 |
| Shared key ingredients | — | 7 of 7 | 3 of 7 | 3 of 7 |
| Key difference | — | Oryza Sativa Bran Oil | 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid | Panthenol |
| Irritancy | Medium | Medium | Low | Low |
| Drying alcohol | — | — | — | — |
| View product | Shop | Shop | Shop |
More alternatives: EADEM Milk Marvel Dark Spot Serum with Niacinamide and Vitamin CPillowtalkDerm Major Fade Hyper Serum
Product summary
"Hourglass - Equilibrium Resurfacing Retinoid Treatment" is effective for: Evens skin tone, Anti-blemish, Anti-aging and Moisturizing
Ingredient callouts
- A good concentration of Niacinamide (1.70% - 2.60%). Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
- This product includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl propionate 0.35% - 0.85%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
- Humectants (glycerin 2.20% - 3.30%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.
About the brand
According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Hourglass" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.
Price
The product retails for 110.00$ in the United States and for 118.00£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 8 studies and safety reviews.
- 1
- 2
- 3
- 4Retinol and retinyl esters: biochemistry and physiologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 5
- 6
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