Name: GRAYMELIN - Smiley Tonight Snail Nutry Emulsion
Brand: GRAYMELIN

Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, "GRAYMELIN - Smiley Tonight Snail Nutry Emulsion" works well for moisturizing the skin. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Arginine, glycerin, snail secretion filtrate, sodium hyaluronate and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (arginine, dimethicone, helianthus annuus seed oil, simmondsia chinensis seed oil and cetearyl alcohol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

This moisturizer also contains Peptides (sh-oligopeptide-1 0.15% - 0.60% and copper tripeptide-1 0.15% - 0.60%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: dipotassium glycyrrhizate, allantoin, butyrospermum parkii butter and stearic acid

Irritation risk

We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 20.40$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Promise: Moisturizing

What does the product description say?

Leaves a film that protects skin from external aggressors and prevent moisture loss.

Source: Yesstyle

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: copper tripeptide-1, sh-oligopeptide-1

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
sh-oligopeptide-1	HIGH
simmondsia chinensis seed oil	HIGH
snail secretion filtrate	HIGH

Other benefit: Anti-aging

This product contains centella asiatica extract, copper tripeptide-1, sh-oligopeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
centella asiatica extract	MEDIUM
copper tripeptide-1	MEDIUM
sh-oligopeptide-1	MEDIUM

Other benefit: Anti-oxidation

This product contains antioxidants (centella asiatica extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
centella asiatica extract	MEDIUM
glycyrrhiza glabra root extract	LOW
origanum vulgare leaf extract	LOW

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Potential irritants

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Ingredients & concentrations

KEY INGREDIENTS

copper tripeptide-1
sh-oligopeptide-1
centella asiatica extract
dimethicone
glycerin
Sunflower seed oil
Jojoba oil
snail secretion filtrate
arginine
sodium hyaluronate
butyrospermum parkii butter
+7 more

Ingredient	Estimated concentration
snail secretion filtrate	71% Declared
Typically contains hyaluronic acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might contain allantoin that is helpful in calming down inflammation. There is no evidence that it can have any further benefits for the skin, especially when used in skincare products
glycerin	23% - 34%
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
butylene glycol	5.3% - 8%
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
water	4.3% - 6.4%
Plain old water
macadamia ternifolia seed oil	3.1% - 4.7%
Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients
helianthus annuus seed oil	2.3% - 3.5%
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
cetyl ethylhexanoate	1.8% - 2.7%
An emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product texture
simmondsia chinensis seed oil	1.5% - 2.3%
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
polysorbate 60	1.2% - 1.8%
Helps oil and water mix together
centella asiatica extract	0.85% - 1.25%
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
cetearyl alcohol	0.9% - 1.3%
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
cetearyl olivate	0.5% - 1.15%
Helps oil and water mix together
origanum vulgare leaf extract	0.4% - 0.95%
A plant extract. Can have an anti-oxidant effect, but can also contain irritants
chamaecyparis obtusa leaf extract	0.35% - 0.85%
Used as a fragrance
salix alba bark extract	0.3% - 0.7%
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect
sodium hyaluronate	0.3% - 0.7%
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
aspalathus linearis extract	0.3% - 0.75%

glycyrrhiza glabra root extract	0.2% - 0.8%
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
lactobacillus/soybean ferment extract	0.2% - 0.75%
A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus out of soybean. The fermented product helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and has anti-bacterial properties. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation and could be helpful in evening out skin tone, but studies are lacking
portulaca oleracea extract	0.2% - 0.7%
A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
cinnamomum cassia bark extract	0.2% - 0.75%
Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating
scutellaria baicalensis root extract	0.15% - 0.5%
A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties
yucca schidigera root extract	0.15% - 0.65%

commiphora abyssinica resin extract	0.15% - 0.6%

perilla frutescens leaf extract	0.15% - 0.65%
Used as a fragrance for its mint-like smell
copper tripeptide-1	0.15% - 0.6%
A naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.
sh-oligopeptide-1	0.15% - 0.6%
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
dimethicone	0.3% - 0.7%
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
sorbitan stearate	0.15% - 0.65%
Helps water and oil mix together
stearic acid	0.35% - 0.8%
Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient
butyrospermum parkii butter	0.3% - 0.75%
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
1,2-hexanediol	0.15% - 0.55%
A preservative
sorbitan olivate	0.15% - 0.6%
Helps oil and water mix together
caprylyl glycol	0.2% - 0.75%
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
allantoin	0.1% - 0.5%
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
arginine	0.15% - 0.55%
An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin
carbomer	0.1% - 0.5%
Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations
xanthan gum	0.1% - 0.45%
Used to create a thicker product consistency
aloe barbadensis leaf extract	0.15% - 0.65%
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
ethylhexylglycerin	0.05% - 0.3%
A preservative
dipotassium glycyrrhizate	0.1% - 0.35%
A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening
pentylene glycol	0.15% - 0.5%
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
parfum	0.05% - 0.15%
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
limonene	0.05% - 0.15%
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
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WIMJ similarity score		61%	59%	56%	52%	52%	51%	50%	50%	50%	49%
Key ingredients	copper tripeptide-1 sh-oligopeptide-1 +9 more	Common: copper tripeptide-1 sh-oligopeptide-1 +7 more Other: niacinamide adenosine +10 more	Common: copper tripeptide-1 sh-oligopeptide-1 +5 more Other: madecassoside niacinamide +17 more	Common: copper tripeptide-1 sh-oligopeptide-1 +4 more Other: biotinoyl tripeptide-1 tripeptide-1 +23 more	Common: copper tripeptide-1 sh-oligopeptide-1 +5 more Other: niacinamide adenosine +3 more	Common: copper tripeptide-1 sh-oligopeptide-1 +2 more Other: adenosine palmitoyl tripeptide-1 +8 more	Common: copper tripeptide-1 sh-oligopeptide-1 +3 more Other: dipeptide-2 acetyl tetrapeptide-5 +24 more	Common: copper tripeptide-1 sh-oligopeptide-1 +7 more Other: acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester acetyl octapeptide-3 +74 more	Common: copper tripeptide-1 sh-oligopeptide-1 +7 more Other: acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester acetyl octapeptide-3 +74 more	Common: copper tripeptide-1 sh-oligopeptide-1 +4 more Other: niacinamide adenosine +4 more	Common: copper tripeptide-1 sh-oligopeptide-1 +6 more Other: niacinamide adenosine +8 more
Irritancy	IRRITANCY HIGH	IRRITANCY MEDIUM	IRRITANCY MEDIUM	IRRITANCY MEDIUM	IRRITANCY HIGH	IRRITANCY MEDIUM	IRRITANCY HIGH	IRRITANCY HIGH	IRRITANCY HIGH	IRRITANCY HIGH	IRRITANCY MEDIUM
Potential Irritants	limonene Has skin benefit? parfum Has skin benefit? +19 more	parfum Has skin benefit? propolis extract Has skin benefit? +10 more	pimpinella anisum fruit extract Has skin benefit? rosa damascena flower water Has skin benefit? +20 more	cocoglycerides Has skin benefit? illicium verum fruit extract Has skin benefit? +9 more	parfum Has skin benefit? thymus vulgaris extract Has skin benefit? +13 more	ocimum sanctum leaf extract Has skin benefit? curcuma longa root extract Has skin benefit? +14 more	citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil Has skin benefit? 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid Has skin benefit? +20 more	parfum Has skin benefit? pyridoxine Has skin benefit? +34 more	parfum Has skin benefit? pyridoxine Has skin benefit? +34 more	rose extract Has skin benefit? rosa damascena extract Has skin benefit? +17 more	parfum Has skin benefit? lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extract Has skin benefit? +13 more
All ingredients	snail secretion filtrate Has skin benefit? glycerin Has skin benefit? +42 more	water Has skin benefit? caprylic/capric triglyceride Has skin benefit? +45 more	water Has skin benefit? snail secretion filtrate Has skin benefit? +51 more	water Has skin benefit? trimethylpentanediol/adipic acid/glycerin crosspolymer Has skin benefit? +67 more	water Has skin benefit? butylene glycol Has skin benefit? +47 more	water Has skin benefit? centella asiatica extract Has skin benefit? +42 more	water Has skin benefit? butylene glycol Has skin benefit? +65 more	calendula officinalis flower extract Has skin benefit? lactobacillus ferment lysate Has skin benefit? +219 more	calendula officinalis extract Has skin benefit? lactobacillus ferment lysate Has skin benefit? +219 more	snail secretion filtrate Has skin benefit? cetearyl olivate Has skin benefit? +58 more	water Has skin benefit? glycerin Has skin benefit? +45 more

GRAYMELIN Smiley Tonight Snail Nutry Emulsion