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Fresh Black Tea Age Delay Moisturizer
Fresh

Fresh Black Tea Age Delay Moisturizer

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
Adenosine, Retinyl palmitate + 4 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“A face cream with advanced antioxidants that is designed to visibly reduce the appearance of fine lines and firm, smooth, and retexturize the skin.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: retinyl palmitate.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.3–0.55%
Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.3–0.55%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.35–0.6%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.35–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.3–0.55%
Moisturizing
Hippophae rhamnoides oil, Saccharomyces ferment filtrate + 26 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“Black Tea Age Delay Moisturizer”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, saccharomyces ferment filtrate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, helianthus annuus seed oil.

Hippophae rhamnoides oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.~0.35–0.65%
Saccharomyces ferment filtrateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA product of yeast fermentation. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.6%
Saccharum officinarum extractKey activeEffect: HighSugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.4–0.6%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.35–0.6%
Vitis vinifera seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~0.5–0.7%
Ribes nigrum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.~0.35–0.6%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.4–2.9%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.3–0.55%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.65–0.95%
Cetyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability~1–1.2%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~1.5–1.8%
TrihydroxystearinKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture~0.3–0.55%
BiotinEffect: LowMight have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect~0.25–0.45%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~1.7–2%
Moringa pterygosperma seed extractEffect: LowMight help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Hydrogenated polyisobutene· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowUsed to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~4.1–5%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
C13-14 isoparaffin· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency~0.35–0.65%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.35–0.6%
Ethylhexyl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.8%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.5–0.75%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.3–0.55%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.35–0.6%
Avena sativa kernel extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~0.4–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.35–0.6%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · Retinyl palmitate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract + 1 more
Moderate evidence

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: retinyl palmitate.

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.3–0.55%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.35–0.6%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.35–0.6%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Adenosine + 10 more
Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (camellia sinensis leaf extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.35–0.6%
AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.3–0.55%
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking~0.3–0.55%
Ribes nigrum seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.~0.35–0.6%
Vitis vinifera seed oilEffect: LowA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~0.5–0.7%
Hippophae rhamnoides oilEffect: LowA good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.~0.35–0.65%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.35–0.6%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.3–0.55%
Avena sativa kernel extractEffect: Low, below effective doseAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~0.4–0.6%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.3–0.6%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.3–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
9 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract + 7 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 31 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hippophae rhamnoides oilA good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.High~0.35–0.65%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Citrus limon fruit extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~1.7–2%est.
Steareth-21Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.2–1.5%est.
Hydrogenated coco-glyceridesHelps oil and water mix together while creating a nice finish on the skinMedium~0.7–1.1%est.
Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.5–0.7%est.
Ribes nigrum seed oilAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.Medium~0.35–0.6%est.
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lackingMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Acer saccharum extractA plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compoundsMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.3–0.6%est.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.35–0.6%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Tetrasodium edtaHelps to stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
PolyacrylamideUsed to improve product texture and help oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Laureth-7Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Ci 14700A colorantMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~1.5–1.8%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate~4.4–5.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate
Hydrogenated polyisobutene~4.1–5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated polyisobutene
Caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride~2.7–3.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride
Glycerin~2.4–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cetearyl isononanoate~2–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

An emollient that softens the skin and helps prevent moisture loss.

More about Cetearyl isononanoate
Pentylene glycol~1.7–2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Ethylhexyl palmitate~1.5–1.8%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Steareth-21~1.2–1.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-21
Cetyl palmitate~1–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability

More about Cetyl palmitate
Hydrogenated coco-glycerides~0.7–1.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps oil and water mix together while creating a nice finish on the skin

More about Hydrogenated coco-glycerides
C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters~0.6–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters
Cetyl alcohol~0.65–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Ethylhexyl stearate~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Ethylhexyl stearate
Stearyl alcohol~0.5–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Vitis vinifera seed oil~0.5–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties

More about Vitis vinifera seed oil
Saccharomyces ferment filtrate~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A product of yeast fermentation. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharomyces ferment filtrate
Avena sativa kernel extract~0.4–0.6%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAnti-oxidation

An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties

More about Avena sativa kernel extract
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.35–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Ribes nigrum seed oil~0.35–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.

More about Ribes nigrum seed oil
Hydrolyzed soy flour~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrolyzed soy flour
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking

More about Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract
Moringa pterygosperma seed extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Moringa pterygosperma seed extract
Saccharum officinarum extract~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharum officinarum extract
Litchi chinensis seed extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Litchi chinensis seed extract
Hippophae rhamnoides oil~0.35–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.

More about Hippophae rhamnoides oil
Rubus fruticosus leaf extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Rubus fruticosus leaf extract
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract
Citrus limon fruit extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus limon fruit extract
Acer saccharum extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compounds

More about Acer saccharum extract
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.35–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Tocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.35–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Retinyl palmitate~0.3–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Tocopherol~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Butylene glycol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Parfum~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Dimethicone~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Tetrasodium edta~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium edta
Polyacrylamide~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to improve product texture and help oil and water mix together

More about Polyacrylamide
Sodium hyaluronate~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
C13-14 isoparaffin~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency

More about C13-14 isoparaffin
Maltodextrin~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Sodium hydroxide~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Silica~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Trihydroxystearin~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture

More about Trihydroxystearin
Adenosine~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Ci 77891~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77891
Bht~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Laureth-7~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Laureth-7
Caprylyl glycol~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose
Disodium phosphate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation

More about Disodium phosphate
Citric acid~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sodium citrate~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Caramel~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Caramel
Hexylene glycol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol
Ci 14700~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant

More about Ci 14700
Biotin~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect

More about Biotin
Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Linalool~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citronellol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Ingredient list view

Water, Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride, Glycerin, Cetearyl isononanoate, Pentylene glycol, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Steareth-21, Cetyl palmitate, Hydrogenated coco-glycerides, C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters, Cetyl alcohol, Ethylhexyl stearate, Stearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Saccharomyces ferment filtrate, Avena sativa kernel extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Ribes nigrum seed oil, Hydrolyzed soy flour, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract, Moringa pterygosperma seed extract, Saccharum officinarum extract, Litchi chinensis seed extract, Hippophae rhamnoides oil, Rubus fruticosus leaf extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract, Acer saccharum extract, Rosa damascena flower oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl palmitate, Butylene glycol, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Parfum, Dimethicone, Tetrasodium edta, Polyacrylamide, Sodium hyaluronate, C13-14 isoparaffin, Maltodextrin, Sodium hydroxide, Silica, Trihydroxystearin, Adenosine, Ci 77891, Bht, Laureth-7, Caprylyl glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Disodium phosphate, Citric acid, Sodium citrate, Caramel, Hexylene glycol, Ci 14700, Biotin, Potassium sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
FreshBlack Tea Age Delay MoisturizerYOUR PRODUCTP.CALMCato CreamBeauty of JoseonDynasty CreamSecret KeyHyaluron Aqua Soft Cream
Match—58%57%57%
Price$90.00$17.99−$72.01$20.50−$69.50$11.40−$78.60
Shared key ingredients—7 of 146 of 145 of 14
Key difference—NiacinamideNiacinamideNiacinamide
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 27 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmeticssemanticscholar.org
  2. 2
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Lonicera caerulea and Vaccinium myrtillus fruit polyphenols protect HaCaT keratinocytes against UVB-induced phototoxic stress and DNA damagesciencedirect.com
  4. 4
    Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects. 2nd edition.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Safety Assessment of Citrus Fruit-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  6. 6
    Photosensitivity in children: An approach to diagnosis and managementijdvl.com
Fresh Black Tea Age Delay Moisturizer
FreshBlack Tea Age Delay Moisturizer
Buy at Bluemercury$90.00Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Bluemercury$90.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.