Facetheory Relaxing Night Cream M10 PRO with Encapsulated Melatonin, Vitamin E and Peptides

Facetheory Relaxing Night Cream M10 PRO with Encapsulated Melatonin, Vitamin E and Peptides

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 14 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Relaxing Night Cream M10 PRO with Encapsulated Melatonin, Vitamin E and Peptides”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dextran, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, ricinus communis seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: caprooyl tetrapeptide-3

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.4–2.1%
Ricinus communis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~1.1–1.6%
DextranKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar~0.1–0.3%
Aleurites moluccanus seed oilKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~2–3%
Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–1.05%
Lactobacillus fermentKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.1–0.35%
Oryza sativa bran oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.35–0.8%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.8–5.7%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~2.1–3.1%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.15–0.5%
Adansonia digitata seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.6–1.4%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~1.6–2.4%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.15–0.6%
Stearic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~1.3–2%
Persea gratissima oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~0.15–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.5%
Anti-aging
Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, Melatonin + 2 more
Moderate evidence
What the product description says
“Melatonin stimulates your body’s production of antioxidant enzymes, supports cutaneous tissue, fights inflammation, helps minimise the visible signs of ageing, and defends against oxidative stress.”
Source: Facetheory UK

This product contains caprooyl tetrapeptide-3. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–1.05%
MelatoninEffect: LowA compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincare~0.1–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.4–2.1%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.5%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Melatonin, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 2 more
Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (melatonin) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

MelatoninKey activeEffect: MediumA compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincare~0.1–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.4–2.1%
Lactobacillus fermentEffect: LowA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.1–0.35%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
5 strong irritants: Sodium anisate, Lavandula angustifolia oil + 3 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 9 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Sodium anisateUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh0.045%
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh0.0015%
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh0.001%
Ricinus communis seed oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~1.1–1.6%est.
Adansonia digitata seed oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.6–1.4%est.
Sodium levulinateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.5%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~0.15–0.5%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.4–2.1%est.
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~1.6–2.4%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~3.8–5.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Prunus mume extract~3.2–4.8%
Formula
Cetyl alcohol~2.1–3.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Aleurites moluccanus seed oil~2–3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Aleurites moluccanus seed oil
Glyceryl stearate se~1.6–2.4%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.4–2.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Stearic acid~1.3–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Ricinus communis seed oil~1.1–1.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Ricinus communis seed oil
Adansonia digitata seed oil~0.6–1.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Adansonia digitata seed oil
Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3~0.45–1.05%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3
Oryza sativa bran oil~0.35–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Oryza sativa bran oil
Sodium anisate~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Sodium anisate
Sodium levulinate~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium levulinate
Glyceryl caprylate~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Tocopherol~0.15–0.5%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Phospholipids~0.15–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize formulations

More about Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose
Melatonin~0.1–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

A compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincare

More about Melatonin
Persea gratissima oil~0.15–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Lactobacillus ferment~0.1–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative

More about Lactobacillus ferment
Xanthan gum~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Dextran~0.1–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar

More about Dextran
Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Linalool0.045%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Geraniol0.0015%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Limonene0.001%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Prunus mume extract, Cetyl alcohol, Aleurites moluccanus seed oil, Glyceryl stearate se, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Stearic acid, Ricinus communis seed oil, Adansonia digitata seed oil, Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, Oryza sativa bran oil, Sodium anisate, Sodium levulinate, Glyceryl caprylate, Tocopherol, Phospholipids, Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, Melatonin, Persea gratissima oil, Lactobacillus ferment, Xanthan gum, Dextran, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene

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Facetheory UK
≈ $2.64
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
FacetheoryRelaxing Night Cream M10 PRO with Encapsulated Melatonin, Vitamin E and PeptidesYOUR PRODUCTCeraVeRenewing Peptide MoisturiseNeal's Yard RemediesMen's Age Defying MoisturiserObagiHydrate Luxe Moisture Rich Cream
Match—59%57%56%
Price$2.66—$43.98+$41.32$85.00+$82.34
Shared key ingredients—4 of 105 of 105 of 10
Key difference—NiacinamidePalmitoyl Tripeptide-5Tripeptide-1
Irritancy High Medium High High
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"Facetheory - Relaxing Night Cream M10 PRO with Encapsulated Melatonin, Vitamin E and Peptides" has a good moisturizing formula. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Facetheory - Relaxing Night Cream M10 PRO with Encapsulated Melatonin, Vitamin E and Peptides ticks this box. Dextran, glycerin and lactobacillus ferment in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, oryza sativa bran oil, butyrospermum parkii butter, ricinus communis seed oil and adansonia digitata seed oil in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (caprooyl tetrapeptide-3 0.45% - 1.05%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: persea gratissima oil and vitamin e

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Facetheory" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails for 1.99£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 12 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Facetheory Relaxing Night Cream M10 PRO with Encapsulated Melatonin, Vitamin E and Peptides
FacetheoryRelaxing Night Cream M10 PRO with Encapsulated Melatonin, Vitamin E and Peptides

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