ETUDE Real Propolis Water Treatment
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Product summary
"ETUDE - Real Propolis Water Treatment" is effective for: Anti-aging, Moisturizing, Evens skin tone and Anti-blemish
Ingredient callouts
- A good concentration of Niacinamide (1.90% - 2.30%). Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
- Ceramides (ceramide np 0.30% - 0.55%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
- Adenosine 0.50% - 0.70%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).
- Humectants (alanine 0.15% - 0.25%, glutamic acid 0.20% - 0.35%, glycine 0.20% - 0.40%, hyaluronic acid 0.30% - 0.55%, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid 0.30% - 0.55%, sodium hyaluronate 0.30% - 0.55% and glycerin 3.00% - 3.60%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.
Price
The product retails for 24.75$ in the United States.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Benefits
Promise: Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Contains 8 different types of Ceramide Amino Acids and free from mineral oil, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Triethanolamine and tar color to improve wrinkles and offers whitening effect.
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: lysine, serine, threonine.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
| Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
| adenosine | HIGH |  |  |
| niacinamide | HIGH | | |
| lysine | MEDIUM | | |
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Promise: Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Deeply hydrates and moisturize your skin by Propolis and Ceramide formula and helps replenish skin s barrier and oil-moisture balance of your skin.
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
alanine, glutamic acid.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: ceramide np.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np, niacinamide
| Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
| triethylhexanoin | HIGH | | |
| alanine | HIGH | | |
| ceramide np | HIGH | | |
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Other benefit: Anti-blemish
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
| Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
| niacinamide | HIGH | | |
| sodium ascorbyl phosphate | HIGH |  | |
| allantoin | LOW | | |
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Other benefit: Evens skin tone
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: alanine.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
| Ingredient | Effectiveness | Concentration | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
| niacinamide | HIGH | | |
| alanine | LOW | | |
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Potential irritants
IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| Ingredient | Irritancy | Skin Benefit |
|---|---|---|
| propolis extract | | |
| parfum | | |
| chamomilla recutita flower extract | | |
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Ingredients & concentrations
KEY INGREDIENTS
- niacinamide
- adenosine
- ceramide np
- arginine
- caprylic/capric triglyceride
- centella asiatica extract
- glutamic acid
- glycerin
- glycine
- hyaluronic acid
- hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
- lysine
- serine
- sodium hyaluronate
- threonine
- triethylhexanoin
- alanine
- allantoin
- +14 more
| Ingredient | Estimated concentration |
|---|---|
| 45% - 55% | |
| Plain old water | |
| 3.5% - 4.3% | |
| A complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating | |
| 3.9% - 4.7% | |
| Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin | |
| 3% - 3.6% | |
| One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant | |
| 2.2% - 2.7% | |
| Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying | |
| 1.9% - 2.3% | |
| Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production | |
| 0.7% - 1.1% | |
| A preservative | |
| 1.4% - 1.7% | |
| Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin | |
| 1.2% - 1.4% | |
| Helps create a thicker product consistency | |
| 0.95% - 1.15% | |
| 0.7% - 1.05% | |
| Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations | |
| 0.6% - 0.9% | |
| Helps adjust pH in products | |
| 0.55% - 0.85% | |
| Used to create a thicker product consistency | |
| 0.55% - 0.8% | |
| A preservative | |
| 0.5% - 0.7% | |
| Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead) | |
| 0.45% - 0.7% | |
| An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients | |
| 0.45% - 0.7% | |
| Stabilizes the product formulation | |
| 0.45% - 0.65% | |
| 0.45% - 0.7% | |
| 0.35% - 0.6% | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| Helps soften the upper layer of the skin | |
| 0.3% - 0.6% | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin | |
| 0.3% - 0.6% | |
| Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients. | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| Helps soften the upper layer of the skin | |
| 0.4% - 0.6% | |
| A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C | |
| 0.3% - 0.6% | |
| Used to enhance the delivery of other ingredients | |
| 0.4% - 0.6% | |
| A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though. | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| Lecithin derivative. It helps oil and water mix together and can enhance penetration of other ingredients. It helps soften the upper layer of the skin | |
| 0.25% - 0.45% | |
| Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated | |
| 0.25% - 0.5% | |
| 0.3% - 0.55% | |
| A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin | |
| 0.2% - 0.4% | |
| Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin | |
| 0.2% - 0.4% | |
| Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function | |
| 0.2% - 0.35% | |
| An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin | |
| 0.15% - 0.3% | |
| An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles | |
| 0.15% - 0.25% | |
| An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking | |
| 0.15% - 0.25% | |
| An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles | |
| 0.15% - 0.3% | |
| 0.05% - 0.1% | |
| An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin | |
| 0.1% - 0.15% | |
| An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles | |
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Sources
- Propolis: A Wonder Bees Product and Its Pharmacological Potentials
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediols
- Safety Assessment of Glycerin Ethoxylates as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of Tromethamine as Used in Cosmetics
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique
- Amended Safety Assessment of Triglycerides as Used in Cosmetics
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humans
- Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic review
- Portulaca oleracea (purslane)
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsions
- Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmetics
- Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate
- Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatment
- Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studies
- Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial
- Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Model
- Centella asiatica in cosmetology
- Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica
- Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts
- Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herba
- Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview
- The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial
- Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin
- Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- Effect of Topical Application of Glycine and Proline on Recalcitrant Leg Ulcers of Prolidase Deficiency
- Functional glycine receptor in cultured human keratinocytes
- Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin