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Etude House Soon Jung 5-Panthensoside Cica Sleeping Pack
Etude House

Etude House Soon Jung 5-Panthensoside Cica Sleeping Pack

Efficacy100/100IrritancyLow
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
Panthenol, Madecassoside + 20 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Keep your skin soothed and hydrated, even when you're asleep, with ETUDE HOUSE Soon Jung 5-Panthensoside Cica Sleeping Pack.”
Source: Althea

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, trehalose.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: copernicia cerifera wax, squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: madecassoside, panthenol

TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.5%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.1–0.4%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.9–5.9%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~2.7–4%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~1.3–2%
Copernicia cerifera waxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency~0.55–1.25%
Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.1–0.45%
Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.1–0.35%
MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.05–0.3%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2–3%
Lactobacillus ferment lysateKey activeEffect: MediumA "broth" with parts of dead cells of lactobacteria. Might be helpful supporting diverse microbiome in skin, but evidence is lacking~0.1–0.3%
Lauroyl lysineKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.8%
Copernicia cerifera ceraKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumBrazilian palm wax. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.55–1.3%
Dicaprylyl ether· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients~1.7–2.5%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.3–0.75%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.1–1.6%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.7%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~1.4–2.1%
Glycine soja oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.05–0.25%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.25%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.4–0.95%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.05–0.15%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Asiaticoside, Madecassoside + 3 more
Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.1–0.4%
MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.05–0.3%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.25%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.05–0.15%
Narcissus tazetta bulb extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight contain compounds called dormins that in theory could help lighten skin and reduce hyperpigmentation, but solid research is lacking~0.1–0.45%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Asiaticoside, Madecassoside + 2 more
Moderate evidence

This product contains asiaticoside, madecassoside. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.1–0.4%
MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.05–0.3%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.05–0.15%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 11 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.85%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.7%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Narcissus tazetta bulb extractMight contain compounds called dormins that in theory could help lighten skin and reduce hyperpigmentation, but solid research is lackingMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.05–0.3%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2–3%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.05–0.25%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~3.9–5.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Propanediol~3.5–5.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Panthenol~2.7–4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Cetearyl alcohol~2–3%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Dicaprylyl ether~1.7–2.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients

More about Dicaprylyl ether
Dicaprylyl carbonate~1.4–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Squalane~1.3–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Glyceryl stearate~1.1–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Copernicia cerifera wax~0.95–1.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency

More about Copernicia cerifera wax
Copernicia cerifera cera~0.55–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Brazilian palm wax. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Copernicia cerifera cera
Copernicia cerifera wax~0.55–1.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency

More about Copernicia cerifera wax
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Stearic acid~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.35–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Lauroyl lysine~0.2–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and creates a nice product texture

More about Lauroyl lysine
Glyceryl caprylate~0.3–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Butylene glycol~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate~0.2–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate
Xanthan gum~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Trehalose~0.1–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Asiaticoside~0.1–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside
Narcissus tazetta bulb extract~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-oxidation

Might contain compounds called dormins that in theory could help lighten skin and reduce hyperpigmentation, but solid research is lacking

More about Narcissus tazetta bulb extract
Madecassic acid~0.1–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid
Sorbitan isostearate~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate
Disodium edta~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Asiatic acid~0.1–0.35%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizing

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid
Lactobacillus ferment lysate~0.1–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A "broth" with parts of dead cells of lactobacteria. Might be helpful supporting diverse microbiome in skin, but evidence is lacking

More about Lactobacillus ferment lysate
Madecassoside~0.05–0.3%
Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside
Tocopherol~0.05–0.25%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Glycine soja oil~0.05–0.25%
Under-dosedComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.05–0.15%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Panthenol, Cetearyl alcohol, Dicaprylyl ether, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Squalane, Glyceryl stearate, Copernicia cerifera wax, Copernicia cerifera cera, Copernicia cerifera wax, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Stearic acid, Hydrogenated lecithin, Lauroyl lysine, Glyceryl caprylate, Butylene glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, Xanthan gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trehalose, Asiaticoside, Narcissus tazetta bulb extract, Madecassic acid, Sorbitan isostearate, Disodium edta, Asiatic acid, Lactobacillus ferment lysate, Madecassoside, Tocopherol, Glycine soja oil, Camellia sinensis leaf extract

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Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Etude HouseSoon Jung 5-Panthensoside Cica Sleeping PackYOUR PRODUCTAESTURAA-Cica Stress Relief Cream EssenceinnisfreeBija Cica Balm EXBeplainCicaterol Moisturizer
Match—57%56%54%
Price—$18.80—$25.60
Shared key ingredients—6 of 107 of 106 of 10
Key difference—Beta-GlucanCyclopentasiloxaneNiacinamide
Irritancy Low Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "Etude House - Soon Jung 5-Panthensoside Cica Sleeping Pack" can work well for skin moisturization. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Humectants in this product (panthenol, glycerin, trehalose and butylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Copernicia cerifera wax, squalane, cetearyl alcohol, copernicia cerifera cera and dicaprylyl carbonate in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer contains actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassoside 0.05% - 0.30%, asiatic acid 0.10% - 0.35%, madecassic acid 0.10% - 0.45% and asiaticoside 0.10% - 0.40% The Centella Asiatica actives, even in low concentration, can help reduce inflammation in skin, strengthen the skin barrier and reduce photodamage. They can also help to decrease scarring.
  • This formulation also includes panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 2.70% - 4.00% concentration. In this concentration, panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.

Irritation risk

This product does not contain known common irritants and is suitable for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be low. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 16 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
  3. 3
    Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  4. 4
    Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  6. 6
    Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
Etude House Soon Jung 5-Panthensoside Cica Sleeping Pack
Etude HouseSoon Jung 5-Panthensoside Cica Sleeping Pack
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