AESTURA

AESTURA A-Cica Stress Relief Cream Essence

Name: AESTURA - A-Cica Stress Relief Cream Essence
Brand: AESTURA

Efficacy100/100IrritancyLow

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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing

Panthenol, Madecassoside + 14 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“A-Cica Stress Relief Cream Essence”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalene, cetearyl alcohol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: madecassoside, panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.95–1.45%

Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.05–0.25%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.9–5.8%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.05–0.3%

Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.45%

Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.05–0.3%

MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.1–0.45%

SqualeneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~2.8–4.1%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2–3%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.85–1.25%

Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.35–0.85%

Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.35–0.75%

Cetyl ethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product texture~1.4–2.1%

AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.75%

Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.45–1.05%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.1%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Asiaticoside, Madecassoside + 3 more

Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - squalene also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.1–0.45%

SqualeneKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~2.8–4.1%

Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.45%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.1%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · Madecassoside, Asiaticoside + 2 more

Moderate evidence

This product contains asiaticoside, madecassoside. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.1–0.45%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.05–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

11 flagged ingredients

Low risk

We flag 11 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.45–1.05%est.

Cetyl ethylhexanoateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product textureMedium~1.4–2.1%est.

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~1.2–1.8%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.65%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.1–0.45%est.

MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.1–0.45%est.

AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.05–0.3%est.

Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.05–0.3%est.

Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.05–0.25%est.

Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenicMedium~0.1–0.3%est.

Lauric acidHelps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishesMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.1–0.3%est.

Lauric acidHelps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishes3/5~0.1–0.35%est.

SqualeneAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast2/5~2.8–4.1%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2–3%est.

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Ingredients

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Water~40–60%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~3.9–5.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Propanediol~3.4–5.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Squalene~2.8–4.1%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast

More about Squalene

Cetearyl alcohol~2–3%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

1,2-hexanediol~0.45–1.05%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Cetyl ethylhexanoate~1.4–2.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product texture

More about Cetyl ethylhexanoate

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate~1.2–1.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate

Panthenol~0.95–1.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Glyceryl stearate~0.85–1.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.45–1.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Xanthan gum~0.4–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Stearic acid~0.45–1.05%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Palmitic acid~0.35–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid

Allantoin~0.2–0.75%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin

Glyceryl caprylate~0.35–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate

Carbomer~0.2–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Disodium edta~0.1–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Tromethamine~0.1–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine

Madecassoside~0.1–0.45%

Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside

Beta-glucan~0.1–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan

Asiaticoside~0.05–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationReduces irritationAnti-aging

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside

Madecassic acid~0.05–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid

Asiatic acid~0.05–0.25%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizing

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid

Myristic acid~0.1–0.3%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic

More about Myristic acid

Lauric acid~0.1–0.35%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

CleansingAnti-blemishAntibacterial

Helps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishes

More about Lauric acid

Tocopherol~0.05–0.1%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Squalene, Cetearyl alcohol, 1,2-hexanediol, Cetyl ethylhexanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, Panthenol, Glyceryl stearate, Hydrogenated lecithin, Xanthan gum, Stearic acid, Palmitic acid, Allantoin, Glyceryl caprylate, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium edta, Tromethamine, Madecassoside, Beta-glucan, Asiaticoside, Madecassic acid, Asiatic acid, Myristic acid, Lauric acid, Tocopherol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	AESTURAA-Cica Stress Relief Cream EssenceYOUR PRODUCT	Etude HouseSoonJung Cica Balm-Panthensoside 5	BonjourExtreme Cica Cream	innisfreeBija Cica Balm EX
Match	—	61%	58%	56%
Price	$18.80	$14.11−$4.69	$34.91+$16.11	—
Shared key ingredients	—	5 of 9	6 of 9	6 of 9
Key difference	—	Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract	Copper Tripeptide-1	Squalane
Irritancy	Low	Low	Low	Low
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "AESTURA - A-Cica Stress Relief Cream Essence" can work well for skin moisturization. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Panthenol and glycerin in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (squalene, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl ethylhexanoate, glyceryl caprylate and glyceryl stearate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiatic acid 0.05% - 0.25%, madecassic acid 0.05% - 0.30%, asiaticoside 0.05% - 0.30% and madecassoside 0.10% - 0.45% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 0.95% - 1.45% concentration. In this concentration, Panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e and allantoin

Irritation risk

This product does not contain known common irritants and is suitable for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be low. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 24.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 18.80$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 31 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Squalene and its potential clinical useseuropepmc.org
3
Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology mdpi.com
4
Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxidesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
5
The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
7
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
8
Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoinscielo.br
9
Safety Assessment of Tromethamine as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
10
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
11
Protective effect of madecassoside on H2O2-induced oxidative stress and autophagy activation in human melanocytesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
Madecassoside, a triterpenoid saponin isolated from Centella asiatica herbs, protects endothelial cells against oxidative stressonlinelibrary.wiley.com
13
Madecassoside Inhibits Melanin Synthesis by Blocking Ultraviolet-Induced Inflammationmdpi.com
14
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
15
The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trialliebertpub.com
16
Stability Study of the Active Constituents in the Centella asiatica Extract Formulationstandfonline.com
17
β-Glucans: Multi-Functional Modulator of Wound Healingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
18
Anti-Wrinkle Therapy: Significant New Findings in the Non-Invasive Cosmetic Treatment of Skin Wrinkles with Beta-Glucanonlinelibrary.wiley.com
19
Skin Health Promotion Effects of Natural Beta-Glucan Derived from Cereals and Microorganisms: A Reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
20
Anticancer properties of low molecular weight oat beta-glucan – An in vitro studysciencedirect.com
21
A critical review on production and industrial applications 2 of beta-glucanssciencedirect.com
22
Improving skin function with CM-glucan, a biological response modifier from yeastonlinelibrary.wiley.com
23
Preparation, characterization, and biological properties of β-glucansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
24
Characterization of a new beta(1-3)-glucan branching activity of Aspergillus fumigatusncbi.nlm.nih.gov
25
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
26
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
27
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
28
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
29
The fatty acid profile of the skin surface lipid layer in papulopustular rosaceancbi.nlm.nih.gov
30
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
31
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu

AESTURAA-Cica Stress Relief Cream Essence

Buy at Yesstyle$18.80 Amazon

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Buy at Yesstyle$18.80 Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.