Estée Lauder Nutritious Melting Soft Creme/Mask Moisturizer

Nutritious Melting Soft Creme/Mask Moisturizer

Efficacy 100/100·Medium irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

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Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing
13 ingredients contribute at the levels below
Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, lactobacillus ferment.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, jojoba esters.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

NIACINAMIDERole: HeroIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.2–1.4%
CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACTRole: Key activeCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.4–0.6%
DIPOTASSIUM GLYCYRRHIZATERole: Under-dosedA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.35–0.65%
GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3–3.7%
JOJOBA ESTERSRole: Key activeAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.3–0.55%
LACTOBACILLUS FERMENTRole: Key activeA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.55–0.8%
LAMINARIA SACCHARINA EXTRACTRole: Under-dosedA seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations~0.95–1.15%
SACCHARIDE ISOMERATERole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
SODIUM HYALURONATERole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%
SUCROSERole: Key activeCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~0.2–0.4%
TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTERRole: Key activeA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.7–2%
ZINC PCARole: Key activeA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.45–0.65%
Anti-aging
NIACINAMIDE at ~1.2–1.4% delivers this without it being on the label
Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NIACINAMIDERole: HeroIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.2–1.4%
CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACTRole: Key activeCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.4–0.6%
LAMINARIA SACCHARINA EXTRACTRole: Under-dosedA seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations~0.95–1.15%
TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTERRole: Key activeA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.7–2%
ZINC PCARole: Key activeA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.45–0.65%
Anti-blemish
NIACINAMIDE at ~1.2–1.4% delivers this without it being on the label
Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: zinc pca

NIACINAMIDERole: HeroIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.2–1.4%
CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACTRole: Key activeCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.4–0.6%
ZINC PCARole: Key activeA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.45–0.65%
Irritancy
16 low-risk flags; mostly mild
Some risk
We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Heptyl undecylenateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finishLow~4.7–5.8%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skinLow~2.3–2.8%est.
Punica granatum extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and even out the skin tone, but is typically used in products in a concentration that is too low to be effectiveLow~0.45–0.65%est.
CaffeineMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyesLow~0.3–0.55%est.
Narcissus tazetta bulb extractMight contain compounds called dormins that in theory could help lighten skin and reduce hyperpigmentation, but solid research is lackingLow~0.25–0.5%est.
Cucumis sativus fruit extractMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effectLow~0.25–0.5%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionLow~0.3–0.55%est.
Hordeum vulgare extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Avoid if you are sensitive to glutenLow~0.25–0.5%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Low~0.25–0.45%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsLow~0.25–0.4%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.2–0.4%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureLow~0.25–0.5%est.
Sodium dehydroacetateA preservativeLow~0.2–0.4%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.2–0.35%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.2–0.35%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients can clog pores in acne-prone skin
High risk
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicalsHigh~1.7–2%est.
Laminaria saccharina extractA seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrationsHigh~0.95–1.15%est.
Porphyridium cruentum extractA red algae extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an antioxidant effectHigh~0.65–1%est.
~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Heptyl undecylenate~4.7–5.8%
Key activeLow-irritation
Butylene glycol~4–4.9%
Formula
Glycerin~3–3.7%
Key active
Polyglyceryl-6 distearate~2.3–2.8%
Low-irritation
Trimethylolpropane tricaprylate/tricaprate~1.9–2.4%
Formula
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.7–2%
Key activeComedo · high
Cetyl alcohol~1.5–1.8%
Key active
Niacinamide~1.2–1.4%
Key active
Laminaria saccharina extract~0.95–1.15%
Under-dosedComedo · high
Porphyridium cruentum extract~0.65–1%
Key activeComedo · high
Lactobacillus ferment~0.55–0.8%
Key active
Hydrolyzed rice extract~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Punica granatum extract~0.45–0.65%
Key activeLow-irritation
Zinc pca~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.35–0.65%
Under-dosed
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Sodium hyaluronate~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Caffeine~0.3–0.55%
Key activeLow-irritation
Narcissus tazetta bulb extract~0.25–0.5%
Low-irritation
Cucumis sativus fruit extract~0.25–0.5%
Low-irritation
Jojoba esters~0.3–0.55%
Key activeLow-irritation
Helianthus annuus seed extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Hordeum vulgare extract~0.25–0.5%
Low-irritation
Sucrose~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Saccharide isomerate~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%
Low-irritation
Sodium phytate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Sodium citrate~0.25–0.4%
Low-irritation
Citric acid~0.2–0.4%
Low-irritation
Pentylene glycol~0.25–0.5%
Low-irritation
Sodium dehydroacetate~0.2–0.4%
Low-irritation
Propylene glycol dicaprate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.35%
Low-irritation
Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.2–0.35%
Low-irritation
Carbomer~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Sodium hydroxide~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.1–0.15%
Low-irritation
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.25%
Formula

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