ESPA Tri-Active Regenerating Moisture Complex

ESPA Tri-Active Regenerating Moisture Complex

Efficacy25/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
13 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Deeply nourishing and hydrating”
Source: N/A

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, glycine soja oil.

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.35–0.6%
Mangifera indica seed butterKey activeEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.7–1.05%
Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.35–0.65%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.4–2.9%
Elaeis guineensis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.~0.5–0.8%
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~4.4–5.3%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens the skin~4.2–5.2%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2–2.4%
Linum usitatissimum seed oilEffect: Low~0.3–0.5%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.7–2%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.4%
Anti-aging
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Weak support
What the product description says
“tackle the visible signs of skin ageing”
Source: N/A

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin~4.2–5.2%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
Evens skin tone
1 ingredient credited for this claim
Weak support
What the product description says
“brightness”
Source: Espa UK

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 strong irritants: Limonene, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil + 9 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 24 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.95–1.15%est.
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.55–0.85%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.5–0.7%est.
Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.6%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.6%est.
P-anisic acidHelps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.5%est.
Santalum album oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.25%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~4.4–5.3%est.
Sodium stearoyl lactylateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.2–1.4%est.
Salix nigra bark extractA plant extract that might contain salicylic acidMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.35–0.65%est.
Levulinic acidHelps stabilize a product formulationMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.65%est.
Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Sodium levulinateA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.3/5~0.5–0.8%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2–2.4%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.35–0.65%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~4.4–5.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil~4.2–5.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

An emollient that softens the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil
Camellia kissi seed oil~3.1–3.8%
Formula
Glycerin~2.4–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cetearyl alcohol~2–2.4%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~1.7–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Polyglyceryl-3 stearate~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 stearate
Sodium stearoyl lactylate~1.2–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl lactylate
Limonene~0.95–1.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Mangifera indica seed butter~0.7–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Mangifera indica seed butter
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.6–0.95%
Irritant · high
Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Gossypium herbaceum seed oil~0.5–0.8%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Cottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.

More about Gossypium herbaceum seed oil
Parfum~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Salix nigra bark extract~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

A plant extract that might contain salicylic acid

More about Salix nigra bark extract
Xanthan gum~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Elaeis guineensis oil~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis oil
Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil
Linalool~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Glycine soja oil~0.35–0.65%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Levulinic acid~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps stabilize a product formulation

More about Levulinic acid
Bidens pilosa extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
P-anisic acid~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Helps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritating

More about P-anisic acid
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Sorbic acid~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid
Linum usitatissimum seed oil~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Linum usitatissimum seed oil
Sclerotium gum~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Phytic acid~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics

More about Phytic acid
Sodium levulinate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium levulinate
Tocopherol~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.35–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Amyris balsamifera bark oil~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Santalum album oil~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Santalum album oil
Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Geraniol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Pelvetia canaliculata extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Benzyl alcohol~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Caramel~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Caramel
Sodium citrate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Citral~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Dehydroacetic acid~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Beta-carotene~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene
Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color

More about Daucus carota sativa root extract
Ingredient list view

Water, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Camellia kissi seed oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 stearate, Sodium stearoyl lactylate, Limonene, Mangifera indica seed butter, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Gossypium herbaceum seed oil, Parfum, Salix nigra bark extract, Xanthan gum, Elaeis guineensis oil, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Linalool, Glycine soja oil, Levulinic acid, Bidens pilosa extract, P-anisic acid, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Sorbic acid, Linum usitatissimum seed oil, Sclerotium gum, Phytic acid, Sodium levulinate, Tocopherol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Amyris balsamifera bark oil, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Santalum album oil, Sodium hydroxide, Geraniol, Pelvetia canaliculata extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Benzyl alcohol, Caramel, Sodium citrate, Citral, Dehydroacetic acid, Beta-carotene, Daucus carota sativa root extract

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 20 studies and safety reviews.

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ESPA Tri-Active Regenerating Moisture Complex
ESPATri-Active Regenerating Moisture Complex

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