ESPA Tri-Active Regenerating Cellular Renewal Liquid Exfoliator

ESPA Tri-Active Regenerating Cellular Renewal Liquid Exfoliator

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Cleansing
Glyceryl stearate citrate, Polyglyceryl-3 stearate + 4 more
Cleanses gently
What the product description says
“Removes residual makeup and impurities”
Source: Espa UK

This product works by removing dirt and oil from the surface of the skin. It uses a combination of mild cleansing agents (glyceryl stearate citrate, hydrogenated lecithin, lysolecithin, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, xanthan gum) and should be able to cleanse the skin gently. Still keep in mind that any cleansing can disrupt the skin barrier, and most people do not need to cleanse their skin more than once per day.

Glyceryl stearate citrateEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~2.8–3.4%
Polyglyceryl-3 stearateEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together~1.4–1.7%
Hydrogenated lecithinEffect: HighHelps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.~0.5–0.75%
Xanthan gumEffect: HighUsed to create a thicker product consistency~0.45–0.65%
LysolecithinEffect: HighLecithin derivative. It helps oil and water mix together and can enhance penetration of other ingredients. It helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%
Sodium stearoyl glutamateEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together~0.3–0.55%
Exfoliation
Gluconolactone, Salix alba bark extract
Works well
What the product description says
“Tri-Active™ Regenerating Cellular Renewal Liquid Exfoliator”
Source: Espa UK

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: gluconolactone.

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~4.4–5.3%
Salix alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.3–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
13 strong irritants: Limonene, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil + 11 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 25 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.55–0.8%est.
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
Salix alba bark extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effectHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
PullulanCreates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effectHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Citrus limon fruit extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Santalum album oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~4.4–5.3%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~2.4–2.9%est.
Levulinic acidHelps stabilize a product formulationMedium~1.1–1.4%est.
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lackingMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Sodium levulinateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Acer saccharum extractA plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compoundsMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Sodium salicylateThe salt of salicylic acid. Helps exfoliate the upper layer of the skin. Can also work to preserve cosmetic productsMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Moringa oleifera seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acidMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Gluconolactone~4.4–5.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~4.1–5.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed
Glyceryl stearate citrate~2.8–3.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.4–2.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Octyldodecanol~1.8–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol
Glycerin~1.7–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Polyglyceryl-3 stearate~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 stearate
Levulinic acid~1.1–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps stabilize a product formulation

More about Levulinic acid
Sodium hydroxide~0.95–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Pseudoalteromonas ferment extract~0.65–1%
Formula
Limonene~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking

More about Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract
Xanthan gum~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · high
Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Salix alba bark extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishExfoliation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect

More about Salix alba bark extract
Lysolecithin~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Lecithin derivative. It helps oil and water mix together and can enhance penetration of other ingredients. It helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lysolecithin
Sclerotium gum~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Sodium gluconate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Parfum~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Sodium levulinate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium levulinate
Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil
Sodium benzoate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Vigna aconitifolia seed extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Linalool~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Saccharum officinarum extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharum officinarum extract
Citric acid~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Pullulan~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Mattifying

Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect

More about Pullulan
Maltodextrin~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract
Citrus limon fruit extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus limon fruit extract
Amyris balsamifera bark oil~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Santalum album oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Santalum album oil
Geraniol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Acer saccharum extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compounds

More about Acer saccharum extract
Silica~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Cystoseira tamariscifolia extract~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Sodium salicylate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-aging

The salt of salicylic acid. Helps exfoliate the upper layer of the skin. Can also work to preserve cosmetic products

More about Sodium salicylate
Tocopherol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Citral~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Moringa oleifera seed oil~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid

More about Moringa oleifera seed oil
Ingredient list view

Water, Gluconolactone, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-3 stearate, Levulinic acid, Sodium hydroxide, Pseudoalteromonas ferment extract, Limonene, Hydrogenated lecithin, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract, Xanthan gum, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Salix alba bark extract, Lysolecithin, Sclerotium gum, Sodium gluconate, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Parfum, Sodium levulinate, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Sodium benzoate, Vigna aconitifolia seed extract, Linalool, Saccharum officinarum extract, Citric acid, Sodium hyaluronate, Pullulan, Maltodextrin, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract, Amyris balsamifera bark oil, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Santalum album oil, Geraniol, Acer saccharum extract, Silica, Cystoseira tamariscifolia extract, Sodium salicylate, Tocopherol, Citral, Moringa oleifera seed oil

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
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Match—54%53%52%
Price—$19.99—$28.00
Shared key ingredients—3 of 136 of 132 of 13
Key difference—Salicylic AcidArginine/Lysine PolypeptideSalicylic Acid
Irritancy High Medium High Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 28 studies and safety reviews.

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ESPA Tri-Active Regenerating Cellular Renewal Liquid Exfoliator
ESPATri-Active Regenerating Cellular Renewal Liquid Exfoliator

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