ESPA Optimal Skin Pro-Moisturiser

Name: ESPA - Optimal Skin Pro-Moisturiser
Brand: ESPA

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WORKS FOR

Anti-oxidation
Moisturizing
Anti-aging
Evens skin tone
+1 more

KEY INGREDIENTS

anhydroxylitol
lactic acid
ascorbic acid
gluconolactone
retinyl palmitate
sodium ascorbyl phosphate
alaria esculenta extract
alpha-glucan oligosaccharide
caprylic/capric triglyceride
cetyl alcohol
coco-caprylate/caprate
coconut alkanes
ethylhexyl palmitate
glucose
glycerin
glyceryl linolenate
helianthus annuus seed oil
helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables
inulin
jojoba esters
plukenetia volubilis seed oil
sodium hyaluronate
xylitylglucoside
+20 more

PROMISES
FULFILLED

41 /100

IRRITANCY

HIGH

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Espa

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Formula review

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Promise

What does the product description say?

"A luxurious cocktail of nutrients assists with encouraging the look of a more balanced skin-tone, while South African Resurrection Plant promotes the illusion of a lit-from-within, youthful glow."

Lookfantastic

WIMJ summary

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - sodium ascorbyl phosphate - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

This ingredient sodium ascorbyl phosphate might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
sodium ascorbyl phosphate	LOW
ascorbic acid	HIGH
gluconolactone	HIGH

See a mistake?

Promise

What does the product description say?

"A luxurious cocktail of nutrients assists with encouraging the look of a more balanced skin-tone, while South African Resurrection Plant promotes the illusion of a lit-from-within, youthful glow."

Lookfantastic

WIMJ summary

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
ascorbic acid	HIGH
gluconolactone	HIGH
lactic acid	HIGH

See a mistake?

Promise

What does the product description say?

"Optimal Skin Pro-Moisturiser"

From product name

WIMJ summary

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: anhydroxylitol, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, plukenetia volubilis seed oil.

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
sodium hyaluronate	HIGH
inulin	HIGH
plukenetia volubilis seed oil	HIGH

See a mistake?

WIMJ summary

This product contains antioxidants (sodium ascorbyl phosphate) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
sodium ascorbyl phosphate	MEDIUM
lonicera caprifolium flower extract	LOW
lonicera japonica flower extract	LOW

Potential irritants

IRRITANCY

HIGH

Ingredient	Irritancy	Skin Benefit
coconut alkanes
polyglyceryl-6 distearate
polyglyceryl-2 stearate

Ingredients by volume

Ingredient	Estimated concentration
water Plain old water	45% - 55%
coconut alkanes An emollient that helps soften the skin	6.1% - 7.4%
polyglyceryl-6 distearate Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin	4% - 4.8%
helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function	3.2% - 3.9%
inulin Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking	2.3% - 2.8%
polyglyceryl-2 stearate Helps water and oil mix together	1.9% - 2.3%
pectin	1.6% - 2%
xylitylglucoside Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function	1.4% - 1.7%
cetyl alcohol A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together	1.2% - 1.5%
coco-caprylate/caprate Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture	0.95% - 1.15%
plukenetia volubilis seed oil A plant oil that works as a good moisturizer by softening the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin and reducing blemishes due to the large content of linoleic acid	0.7% - 1%
propanediol Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin	0.55% - 0.8%
ethylhexyl palmitate An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture	0.5% - 0.75%
caprylic/capric triglyceride A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin	0.5% - 0.75%
glyceryl stearate An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together	0.45% - 0.65%
anhydroxylitol Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function	0.35% - 0.65%
phenoxyethanol A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products	0.35% - 0.65%
stearyl alcohol An emollient that helps soften the skin	0.35% - 0.65%
glycerin One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant	0.3% - 0.55%
jojoba esters An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function	0.3% - 0.55%
behenic acid Helps water and oil mix together	0.35% - 0.65%
cetyl behenate	0.25% - 0.45%
isostearyl isostearate Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture	0.25% - 0.45%
potassium cetyl phosphate Helps oil and water mix together	0.25% - 0.45%
helianthus annuus seed oil A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function	0.25% - 0.45%
xylitol Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function	0.25% - 0.45%
limonene A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat	0.25% - 0.4%
citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating	0.25% - 0.45%
sclerotium gum Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions	0.25% - 0.45%
polyglyceryl-3 beeswax Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)	0.25% - 0.5%
alpha-glucan oligosaccharide Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin	0.3% - 0.55%
citrus aurantium amara flower oil Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating	0.25% - 0.45%
citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity	0.25% - 0.45%
benzoic acid A preservative	0.25% - 0.5%
cedrus atlantica bark oil	0.25% - 0.4%
citrus nobilis peel oil A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin	0.25% - 0.45%
dehydroacetic acid A preservative	0.25% - 0.5%
alaria esculenta extract Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.	0.25% - 0.5%
rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin. Is a likely irritant	0.25% - 0.45%
lonicera caprifolium flower extract A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating	0.25% - 0.4%
lonicera japonica flower extract A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating	0.25% - 0.45%
linalool A fragrance. Can be irritating	0.25% - 0.45%
asparagus officinalis stem extract	0.25% - 0.45%
myrothamnus flabellifolia leaf/stem extract	0.25% - 0.45%
silica dimethyl silylate Used to create a thicker product consistency	0.3% - 0.55%
ethylhexylglycerin A preservative	0.25% - 0.5%
sorbitol Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture	0.25% - 0.5%
hydrolyzed yeast protein	0.25% - 0.45%
sodium benzoate A preservative	0.25% - 0.5%
butylene glycol Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin	0.25% - 0.5%
pentylene glycol Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture	0.3% - 0.55%
lactic acid An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiom)	0.25% - 0.45%
lecithin Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin	0.3% - 0.55%
ascorbic acid The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging	0.25% - 0.5%
calcium gluconate Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product	0.3% - 0.55%
citric acid Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH	0.25% - 0.5%
gluconolactone A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals	0.25% - 0.45%
potassium sorbate A preservative	0.25% - 0.5%
jasminum officinale flower extract Fragrance. Can be irritating	0.25% - 0.45%
rosa damascena flower oil Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating	0.25% - 0.45%
sodium hyaluronate One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin	0.25% - 0.5%
xanthan gum Used to create a thicker product consistency	0.25% - 0.5%
caprylyl glycol Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture	0.3% - 0.55%
glucose Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function	0.25% - 0.45%
tocopheryl acetate A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.	0.25% - 0.5%
citronellol A fragrance. Can be irritating	0.2% - 0.4%
benzyl benzoate Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating	0.2% - 0.4%
glyceryl linoleate Helps oil and water mix together	0.3% - 0.5%
glyceryl linolenate Helps soften the upper layer of the skin	0.25% - 0.45%
disodium edta Stabilizes the product formulation	0.2% - 0.35%
retinyl palmitate Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect	0.15% - 0.3%
sodium ascorbyl phosphate A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C	0.15% - 0.3%
glyceryl caprylate An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products	0.2% - 0.4%
oleic acid Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness	0.2% - 0.35%
iron oxides An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499	0.1% - 0.2%
ci 77491 A red colorant made of iron oxide. Typically is not irritating	0.1% - 0.2%
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