ESPA Face Serums Active Nutrients Optimal Skin ProSerum

ESPA Face Serums Active Nutrients Optimal Skin ProSerum

Efficacy50/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Linoleic acid, Oryza sativa bran oil + 14 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Used daily, this intensely nourishing, revitalising serum helps to replenish and strengthen skin's natural moisture barrier so that even sensitive skin feels nurtured and healthy-looking.”
Source: Allbeauty

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: helianthus annuus seed oil, helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: linoleic acid

Linoleic acidHero· EmollientEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.55–1.3%
Oryza sativa bran oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~22–33%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~5–7.5%
Coconut alkanesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin~4.6–6.9%
Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiablesKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~3.8–5.7%
Oenothera biennis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~2.9–4.3%
Rosa canina fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~2.1–3.2%
Echium plantagineum seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin~1.6–2.4%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~1.2–1.8%
Ribes nigrum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.~0.45–1%
Linolenic acidKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation~0.2–0.75%
Crithmum maritimum extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract (sea fennel) that might have anti-oxidant properties~0.2–0.75%
Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~1.4–2%
Moringa oleifera seed oil· EmollientEffect: LowA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid~0.15–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.4–1%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.85–1.25%
Evens skin tone
No ingredient credited for this claim
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Antioxidant-rich Turmeric is the final complexion-loving ingredient that helps improve the appearance of your skin tone.”
Source: Allbeauty

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
14 strong irritants: Parfum, Limonene + 12 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 25 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Curcuma longa root extractA plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritantHigh~0.85–1.3%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.35–0.8%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.35–0.8%est.
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.75%est.
Cedrus deodara wood oilUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.3–0.75%est.
Eugenia caryophyllus bud oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.7%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
EugenolA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Citrus tangerina peel oilEssential oil that can be irritating. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Rosa damascena flower extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.5%est.
Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.3%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.3%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~4.6–6.9%est.
Oenothera biennis oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~2.9–4.3%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~2.1–3.2%est.
Echium plantagineum seed oilA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skinMedium~1.6–2.4%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.85–1.25%est.
Ribes nigrum seed oilAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.Medium~0.45–1%est.
Linolenic acidAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammationMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Moringa oleifera seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acidMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Crithmum maritimum extractA plant extract (sea fennel) that might have anti-oxidant properties3/5~0.2–0.75%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skin2/5~4.6–6.9%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Oryza sativa bran oil~22–33%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Oryza sativa bran oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil~5–7.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Coconut alkanes~4.6–6.9%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Coconut alkanes
Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables~3.8–5.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables
Oenothera biennis oil~2.9–4.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Oenothera biennis oil
Rosa canina fruit oil~2.1–3.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Echium plantagineum seed oil~1.6–2.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin

More about Echium plantagineum seed oil
Octyldodecanol~1.4–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol
Coco-caprylate/caprate~1.2–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Curcuma longa root extract~0.85–1.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant

More about Curcuma longa root extract
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.85–1.25%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Linoleic acid~0.55–1.3%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid
Tocopherol~0.4–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ribes nigrum seed oil~0.45–1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.

More about Ribes nigrum seed oil
Parfum~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Limonene~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Cedrus deodara wood oil~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Cedrus deodara wood oil
Crithmum maritimum extract~0.2–0.75%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant extract (sea fennel) that might have anti-oxidant properties

More about Crithmum maritimum extract
Eugenia caryophyllus bud oil~0.15–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Eugenia caryophyllus bud oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Eugenol~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Eugenol
Citrus tangerina peel oil~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Essential oil that can be irritating. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus tangerina peel oil
Jasminum sambac flower extract~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Plumeria alba flower extract~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Rosa damascena flower extract~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower extract
Linalool~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Benzyl benzoate~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing

More about Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract
Benzyl salicylate~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate
Geraniol~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Linolenic acid~0.2–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Linolenic acid
Citronellol~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Benzyl alcohol~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Moringa oleifera seed oil~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid

More about Moringa oleifera seed oil
Ingredient list view

Oryza sativa bran oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Coconut alkanes, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Oenothera biennis oil, Rosa canina fruit oil, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Octyldodecanol, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Curcuma longa root extract, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Linoleic acid, Tocopherol, Ribes nigrum seed oil, Parfum, Limonene, Cananga odorata flower oil, Cedrus deodara wood oil, Crithmum maritimum extract, Eugenia caryophyllus bud oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Eugenol, Citrus tangerina peel oil, Jasminum sambac flower extract, Plumeria alba flower extract, Rosa damascena flower extract, Linalool, Benzyl benzoate, Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract, Benzyl salicylate, Geraniol, Linolenic acid, Citronellol, Benzyl alcohol, Moringa oleifera seed oil

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPAFace Serums Active Nutrients Optimal Skin ProSerumYOUR PRODUCTPulpe de VieThe Serum Moisturizing Facial SerumDieux SkinFirm Revival HydroRetinal Firming SerumDermalogicaMultivitamin Power Serum
Match—50%47%47%
Price—$19.44—$47.29
Shared key ingredients—5 of 125 of 124 of 12
Key difference—Helianthus Annuus Hybrid OilRetinalRetinyl Palmitate
Irritancy High High Medium High
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"ESPA - Face Serums Active Nutrients Optimal Skin ProSerum" is effective for: Moisturizing

Ingredient callouts

  • We love that there is also Linoleic Acid in this product (0.55% - 1.30%). Linoleic Acid is one of the skin's natural emollients. It supports the skin barrier and can even help reduce clogged pores.

Price

The product retails from 41.15£ up to 1139.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 20 studies and safety reviews.

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ESPA Face Serums Active Nutrients Optimal Skin ProSerum
ESPAFace Serums Active Nutrients Optimal Skin ProSerum

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