ESPA

ESPA

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Cleansing
Decyl glucoside, Cetearyl olivate + 6 more
Cleanses gently
What the product description says
“The luxurious cream to oil formulation transforms into a rich milk that cocoons skin, melting away impurities from your skin’s surface.”
Source: Recreate Yourself

This product works by removing dirt and oil from the surface of the skin. It uses a combination of mild cleansing agents (candelilla/jojoba/rice bran polyglyceryl-3 esters, cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl olivate, decyl glucoside, glyceryl stearate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sorbitan olivate, xanthan gum) and should be able to cleanse the skin gently. Still keep in mind that any cleansing can disrupt the skin barrier, and most people do not need to cleanse their skin more than once per day.

Even though this formulation is mild, the following cleansing agents could trigger an irritation or allergy for some people: decyl glucoside

Decyl glucosideEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating~3.6–4.4%
Cetearyl olivateEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together~2.3–2.8%
Sorbitan olivateEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together~1–1.2%
Candelilla/jojoba/rice bran polyglyceryl-3 estersEffect: HighHelp oil and water mix together~0.6–0.9%
Glyceryl stearateEffect: HighAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.6–0.9%
Cetearyl alcoholEffect: HighA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.5–0.75%
Sodium stearoyl lactylateEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together~0.45–0.7%
Xanthan gumEffect: HighUsed to create a thicker product consistency~0.45–0.65%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
15 strong irritants: Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil + 13 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 26 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Decyl glucosideHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~3.6–4.4%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~1.6–1.9%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~1.5–1.8%est.
Pogostemon cablin leaf oilUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Eugenia caryophyllus bud oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skinHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
EugenolA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Lavandula hybrida oilPlant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergenHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Mentha piperita oilUsed as a fragrance and can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Zingiber officinale root oilAn essential oil that is likely to be irritating and can cause photosensitivityHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Panax ginseng root extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Cinnamomum cassia bark extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Curcuma longa root extractA plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Jasminum officinale flower extractFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~4.2–5.1%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~2–2.4%est.
Candelilla/jojoba/rice bran polyglyceryl-3 estersHelp oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.6–0.9%est.
Sodium stearoyl lactylateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.75–1.15%est.
Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.25–0.45%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.5–0.75%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.4–5.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~4.2–5.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Decyl glucoside~3.6–4.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Decyl glucoside
Cetearyl olivate~2.3–2.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~2–2.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Limonene~1.6–1.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~1.5–1.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Olus oil~1.3–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Olus oil
Sorbitan olivate~1–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.75–1.15%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Candelilla/jojoba/rice bran polyglyceryl-3 esters~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Help oil and water mix together

More about Candelilla/jojoba/rice bran polyglyceryl-3 esters
Glyceryl stearate~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Plukenetia volubilis seed oil~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that works as a good moisturizer by softening the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin and reducing blemishes due to the large content of linoleic acid

More about Plukenetia volubilis seed oil
Cetearyl alcohol~0.5–0.75%
Comedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Sodium stearoyl lactylate~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl lactylate
Xanthan gum~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Hydrolyzed jojoba esters~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed jojoba esters
Citric acid~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Pogostemon cablin leaf oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Pogostemon cablin leaf oil
Citrus limon peel oil~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil
Eugenia caryophyllus bud oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Eugenia caryophyllus bud oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil
Elaeis guineensis butter~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of palm oil. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis butter
Potassium sorbate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Eugenol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Eugenol
Vetiveria zizanoides root oil~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Phytic acid~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics

More about Phytic acid
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Lavandula hybrida oil~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Plant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergen

More about Lavandula hybrida oil
Mentha piperita oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance and can be irritating

More about Mentha piperita oil
Zingiber officinale root oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil that is likely to be irritating and can cause photosensitivity

More about Zingiber officinale root oil
Parfum~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Linalool~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Cocos nucifera oil~0.25–0.45%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Codonopsis pilosula extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Dimocarpus longan fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Panax ginseng root extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritating

More about Panax ginseng root extract
Ziziphus jujuba fruit extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Acacia concinna fruit extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Caramel~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Caramel
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Cinnamomum cassia bark extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Cinnamomum cassia bark extract
Bisabolol~0.1–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Curcuma longa root extract~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant

More about Curcuma longa root extract
Opuntia ficus-indica stem extract~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Tocopherol~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Jasminum officinale flower extract~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Jasminum officinale flower extract
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Decyl glucoside, Cetearyl olivate, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Olus oil, Sorbitan olivate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Candelilla/jojoba/rice bran polyglyceryl-3 esters, Glyceryl stearate, Plukenetia volubilis seed oil, Cetearyl alcohol, Sodium stearoyl lactylate, Xanthan gum, Sodium benzoate, Hydrolyzed jojoba esters, Citric acid, Pogostemon cablin leaf oil, Citrus limon peel oil, Eugenia caryophyllus bud oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil, Elaeis guineensis butter, Potassium sorbate, Eugenol, Vetiveria zizanoides root oil, Phytic acid, Cananga odorata flower oil, Lavandula hybrida oil, Mentha piperita oil, Zingiber officinale root oil, Parfum, Linalool, Cocos nucifera oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Codonopsis pilosula extract, Dimocarpus longan fruit extract, Panax ginseng root extract, Ziziphus jujuba fruit extract, Acacia concinna fruit extract, Caramel, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Cinnamomum cassia bark extract, Bisabolol, Curcuma longa root extract, Opuntia ficus-indica stem extract, Tocopherol, Jasminum officinale flower extract

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Amazon USPrice as of 11/10 21:23 GMT
$274.83
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPAYOUR PRODUCTSkinfixEczema+ Foaming Oil Body WashKopari BeautyCoconut Shower OilNatura SibericaLittle Siberica Organic Baby Moisturising Milk
Match—32%32%30%
Price$274.83$24.17−$250.66$28.00−$246.83$8.29−$266.54
Shared key ingredients—4 of 172 of 175 of 17
Key difference—Colloidal OatmealUbiquinoneOatmeal Extract
Irritancy High Medium Medium Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

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