Elemental Herbology - Facial Moisturisers Vital Glow Overnight Resurfacing Cream

Elemental Herbology Facial Moisturisers Vital Glow Overnight Resurfacing Cream

WORKS FOR
  • Anti-aging
  • Exfoliation
  • Moisturizing
  • Evens skin tone
  • Anti-blemish
  • +2 more
KEY INGREDIENTS
  • hydroxypinacolone retinoate
  • glycolic acid
  • lactic acid
  • panthenol
  • argania spinosa kernel oil
  • arginine
  • brassica oleracea italica seed oil
  • caprylic/capric triglyceride
  • cetearyl alcohol
  • glycerin
  • myristyl myristate
  • plukenetia volubilis seed oil
  • prunus armeniaca kernel oil
  • pyrus malus fruit extract
  • squalane
  • theobroma cacao seed butter
  • tocopherol
  • +14 more
PROMISES
FULFILLED
100 /100
IRRITANCY
HIGH
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Formula review

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WIMJ summary

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycolic acid

Ingredient Effectiveness Concentration Irritancy
HIGH
meets threshold
MEDIUM
meets threshold
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Promise
What does the product description say?
"Stimulates cell turnover, reduces pigmentation and the appearance of pore size, improves elasticity and helps to plump fine lines and wrinkles."
WIMJ summary

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate, glycolic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Ingredient Effectiveness Concentration Irritancy
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
meets threshold
MEDIUM
does not meet threshold
See a mistake?
Promise
What does the product description say?
"Improves the skin texture and corrects pigmentation in order to leave the skin soft, smooth and plump."
WIMJ summary

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

In addition, this product contains glycolic acid. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Ingredient Effectiveness Concentration Irritancy
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
does not meet threshold
See a mistake?
Promise
What does the product description say?
"Natural AHAs formed from sugar, apples and lactic acid enable a brighter appearance, helping to further improve dull skin."
WIMJ summary

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Ingredient Effectiveness Concentration Irritancy
HIGH
meets threshold
MEDIUM
meets threshold
HIGH
does not meet threshold
See a mistake?
Promise
What does the product description say?
"Facial Moisturisers Vital Glow Overnight Resurfacing Cream"
From product name
WIMJ summary

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

Ingredient Effectiveness Concentration Irritancy
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
meets threshold
HIGH
meets threshold

Potential irritants

IRRITANCY
HIGH

Ingredients by volume

Ingredient Estimated concentration
Plain old water
45% - 55%
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
6.8% - 8.4%
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
5% - 6.1%
A plant oil that works as a good moisturizer by softening the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin and reducing blemishes due to the large content of linoleic acid
3.2% - 4%
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
2.3% - 2.8%
An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic
2% - 2.4%
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
1.7% - 2.1%
An emollient that helps soften the skin
1.6% - 2%
An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties
1.4% - 1.7%
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect
1.2% - 1.4%
Helps oil and water mix together
0.95% - 1.15%
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
0.7% - 1.05%
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
0.65% - 1%
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture
0.65% - 1%
Helps oil and water mix together
0.6% - 0.95%
A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin, but evidence is lacking
0.6% - 0.9%
An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating
0.6% - 0.85%
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
0.55% - 0.85%
A plant seed oil that consists mainly of erucic acid and used to help soften the upper layer of the skin. This fatty acid can enhance penetration of other ingredients into the skin but it is not a good moisturizer on its own
0.55% - 0.85%
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
0.55% - 0.8%
An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin
0.45% - 0.7%
A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin
0.45% - 0.7%
Helps adjust the product pH
0.45% - 0.7%
An anti-oxidant that helps stabilize product formulations. Might help neutralise free radicals in skin
0.45% - 0.65%
Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content
0.45% - 0.65%
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lacking
0.45% - 0.65%
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
0.01% - 0.05%
Used as a fragrance
0.45% - 0.65%
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
0.45% - 0.65%
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiom)
0.4% - 0.6%
Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating
0.35% - 0.6%
A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin
0.35% - 0.6%
0.35% - 0.6%
Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture
0.35% - 0.65%
Helps water and oil mix together
0.35% - 0.6%
Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil
0.3% - 0.6%
0.3% - 0.55%
Used to create a thicker product consistency
0.3% - 0.55%
Helps stabilize the product formulation
0.25% - 0.5%
Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin
0.25% - 0.45%
Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products
0.2% - 0.4%
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
0.15% - 0.3%
A preservative
0.15% - 0.25%
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
0.15% - 0.3%
A fragrance. Can be irritating
0.15% - 0.25%
A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant
0.1% - 0.15%

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