PRODUCT REVIEW
Elemental Herbology Facial Moisturisers Vital Glow Overnight Resurfacing Cream
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Stimulates cell turnover, reduces pigmentation and the appearance of pore size, improves elasticity and helps to plump fine lines and wrinkles. . Natural AHAs.
glycolic acid
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
lactic acid
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Stimulates cell turnover, reduces pigmentation and the appearance of pore size, improves elasticity and helps to plump fine lines and wrinkles. . Natural AHAs.
glycolic acid
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
lactic acid
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Exfoliation
What does the product description say?
Natural AHAs formed from sugar, apples and lactic acid enable a brighter appearance, helping to further improve dull skin.
glycolic acid
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
lactic acid
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Facial Moisturisers Vital Glow Overnight Resurfacing Cream
glycerin
4.4% -
5.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
myristyl myristate
2% -
2.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic
argania spinosa kernel oil
1.2% -
1.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties
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Anti-blemish
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
glycolic acid
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Exfoliation | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 4
Potential irritants
limonene
0.55% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
0.35% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating
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Comodogenic ingredients
cetearyl alcohol
2.3% -
2.8%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
myristyl myristate
2% -
2.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic
Show more
User reviews (0)
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LOW
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
tocopherol
0.35% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-inflammatory
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Potential irritants
limonene
0.55% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
0.35% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
cetearyl alcohol
2.3% -
2.8%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
myristyl myristate
2% -
2.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic
Show more
All ingredients
glycerin
4.4% -
5.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
caprylic/capric triglyceride
4.1% -
5.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
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Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Plukenetia volubilis seed oil, Cetearyl alcohol, Myristyl myristate, Squalane, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Argania spinosa kernel oil, Theobroma cacao seed butter, Cetearyl olivate, Limonene, Panthenol, Isostearyl isostearate, Sorbitan olivate, Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Tocopherol, Brassica oleracea italica seed oil, Lecithin, Arginine, Citrus nobilis peel oil, Malic acid, Oryzanol, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Malpighia glabra fruit extract, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Commiphora myrrha oil, Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Citrus paradisi peel oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil, Phaseolus radiatus meristem cell culture extract, Cetearyl glucoside, Sorbitan stearate, Maltodextrin, Inulin lauryl carbamate, Xanthan gum, Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, Dimethyl isosorbide, Alcohol denat., Phenoxyethanol, Potassium sorbate, Citric acid, Linalool, Citral
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Chemical composition of Sacha Inchi ( Plukenetia volubilis L.) seeds and characteristics of their lipid fraction
- Natural vegetable fats in the prevention of irritant contact dermatitis
- Cocoa polyphenols and their influence on parameters involved in ex vivo skin restructuring
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- The chemotherapeutic potential of Terminalia ferdinandiana: Phytochemistry and bioactivity
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- The Enigma of Bioactivity and Toxicity of Botanical Oils for Skin Care
- Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmetics
- Oxidized citrus oil (R-limonene): A frequent skin sensitizer in Europe
- Air oxidation increases skin irritation from fragrance terpenes
- Antioxidant activity of gamma-oryzanol: Mechanism of action and its effect on oxidative stability of pharmaceutical oils
- Skin Anti-aging Assays of Proanthocyanidin Rich Red Rice Extract, Oryzanol and Other Phenolic Compounds
- Acerola, an untapped functional superfruit: a review on latest frontiers
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acid
- Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- Assessment report on Rosmarinus officinalis L., aetheroleum and Rosmarinus officinalis L., folium
- Screening of plant extracts for antimicrobial activity against bacteria and yeasts with dermatological relevance
- Occupational contact dermatitis due to essential oils
- The in vitro antimicrobial activity and chemometric modelling of 59 commercial essential oils against pathogens of dermatological relevance
- Antimicrobial and Antioxidant Properties of Rosemary and Sage (Rosmarinus officinalis L. and Salvia officinalis L., Lamiaceae) Essential Oils
- Chemical Composition, Plant Genetic Differences, Antimicrobial and Antifungal Activity Investigation of the Essential Oil of Rosmarinus officinalis L.