Dr. LeWinns Line Smoothing Complex Triple Action Defence

Dr. LeWinns Line Smoothing Complex Triple Action Defence

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Anti-aging
2 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support
What the product description says
“An innovative anti-ageing treatment serum formulated with powerful peptides to help reduce expression lines and wrinkles, while antioxidants work to defend against free radicals responsible for premature ageing.”
Source: N/A

This product contains acetyl octapeptide-3, tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Acetyl octapeptide-3Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 5 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (dimethylmethoxy chromanol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Dimethylmethoxy chromanolKey activeEffect: HighCan help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.25–0.45%
Ribes nigrum seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.~0.25–0.5%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.25–0.45%
Yeast extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~0.25–0.45%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.25–0.45%
Moisturizing
Not advertised by the brand · 14 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium pca.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: ribes nigrum seed oil, cyclopentasiloxane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl octapeptide-3, tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Acetyl octapeptide-3Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.5–0.8%
Ribes nigrum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.~0.25–0.5%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–5.4%
Peg-12 dimethiconeKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~0.65–0.95%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~1.9–2.3%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.25–0.45%
Hydrolyzed wheat proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten~0.2–0.4%
AlginEffect: LowUsed to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.5–0.75%
AgarEffect: LowPolysaccharide derived from seaweed. Used to create a thicker product consistency and might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Yeast extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 strong irritants: Alcohol, Parfum + 5 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 18 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~4.1–5%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~2.9–3.6%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Ci 75470Carmine. A colorant. Can be an allergenHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
TriethanolamineUsed to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smellMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
AgarPolysaccharide derived from seaweed. Used to create a thicker product consistency and might help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Calcium alginateHelps to improve the product textureMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Ribes nigrum seed oilAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Hydrolyzed wheat proteinCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to glutenMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
AlginUsed to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.25–0.45%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.4–5.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Alcohol~4.1–5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Propylene glycol~2.9–3.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Peg-4~2.2–2.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Peg-4
Cyclopentasiloxane~1.9–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Propanediol~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~1.1–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Xanthan gum~0.8–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Peg-12 dimethicone~0.65–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Peg-12 dimethicone
Sodium pca~0.5–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Caprylyl glycol~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Carbomer~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Triethanolamine~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smell

More about Triethanolamine
Polysorbate 20~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Parfum~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Limonene~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Linalool~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Geraniol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Citral~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Citronellol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Agar~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Polysaccharide derived from seaweed. Used to create a thicker product consistency and might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Agar
Laureth-25~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Laureth-25
Calcium alginate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to improve the product texture

More about Calcium alginate
Laureth-3~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Laureth-3
1,2-hexanediol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Silica~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Algin~0.25–0.45%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Algin
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Ribes nigrum seed oil~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.

More about Ribes nigrum seed oil
Dimethylmethoxy chromanol~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Dimethylmethoxy chromanol
Hydrolyzed soy protein~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing

More about Hydrolyzed soy protein
Yeast extract~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Yeast extract
Hydrolyzed wheat protein~0.2–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten

More about Hydrolyzed wheat protein
Butylene glycol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Caviar extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Caviar extract
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Acetyl octapeptide-3~0.2–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl octapeptide-3
Tripeptide-1~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Tripeptide-1
Ci 77891~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77891
Ci 77492~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant. Usually well-tolerated

More about Ci 77492
Ci 74160~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 74160
Ci 75470~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Carmine. A colorant. Can be an allergen

More about Ci 75470
Ci 77499~0.1–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

An iron oxide. Used as a colorant. Is usually well tolerated

More about Ci 77499
Parfum~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Alcohol, Propylene glycol, Peg-4, Cyclopentasiloxane, Phenoxyethanol, Propanediol, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Xanthan gum, Peg-12 dimethicone, Sodium pca, Caprylyl glycol, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Polysorbate 20, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Citral, Citronellol, Agar, Laureth-25, Calcium alginate, Laureth-3, 1,2-hexanediol, Silica, Algin, Tocopheryl acetate, Ribes nigrum seed oil, Dimethylmethoxy chromanol, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Yeast extract, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Butylene glycol, Caviar extract, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Acetyl octapeptide-3, Tripeptide-1, Ci 77891, Ci 77492, Ci 74160, Ci 75470, Ci 77499, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Dr. LeWinnsLine Smoothing Complex Triple Action DefenceYOUR PRODUCTPeter Thomas RothPeptide 21 Lift & Firm Moisturizer
Match—54%
Price—$56.78
Shared key ingredients—3 of 8
Key difference—Hexapeptide-11
Irritancy High Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol —
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Product summary

"Dr. LeWinns - Line Smoothing Complex Triple Action Defence" has a good moisturizing formula. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (acetyl octapeptide-3, glycerin, sodium pca, hydrolyzed soy protein and hydrolyzed wheat protein) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (tripeptide-1, ribes nigrum seed oil, cyclopentasiloxane and caprylyl glycol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This moistruizer also contains peptides (tripeptide-1 0.25% - 0.45% and acetyl octapeptide-3 0.20% - 0.40%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Dr. LeWinns Line Smoothing Complex Triple Action Defence
Dr. LeWinnsLine Smoothing Complex Triple Action Defence

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