Dr. Idriss Left Un-Red CalmBack Cream

Dr. Idriss Left Un-Red CalmBack Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyLow
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
Ceramide np, Panthenol + 15 more
Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, zinc pca.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np, panthenol

Zinc pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.5–0.75%
Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.45–0.65%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2.4–3%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.8–4.6%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.5–0.75%
Theobroma grandiflorum seed butterKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layer~0.95–1.15%
Alpha-glucan oligosaccharideKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.75–1.15%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~3.1–3.8%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.3–1.5%
Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.3–0.5%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.2–0.35%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
Phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency~4.6–5.6%
Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%
Zinc gluconateUnder-dosedEffect: HighTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%
Colloidal oatmealUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps to restore skin barrier function, soften the upper layer of the skin and calm down inflammation~0.6–0.9%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
10 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 10 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Ci 19140A yellow dyeHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Theobroma grandiflorum seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layerMedium~0.95–1.15%est.
Zinc gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Ci 42090A colorant (dye)Medium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.3–1.5%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate~4.6–5.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency

More about Phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate
Glycerin~3.8–4.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Coco-caprylate/caprate~3.1–3.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Dimethicone~2.4–3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Propanediol~1.9–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Cetearyl olivate~1.6–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Cetyl lactate~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cetyl lactate
Cetearyl alcohol~1.3–1.5%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter~0.95–1.15%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layer

More about Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter
Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide~0.75–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide
Phytosteryl/behenyl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Sorbitan olivate~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Panthenol~0.5–0.75%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Zinc pca~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing

More about Zinc pca
Colloidal oatmeal~0.6–0.9%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

Helps to restore skin barrier function, soften the upper layer of the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Colloidal oatmeal
Glyceryl stearate citrate~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate
Acetyl tetrapeptide-40~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Ceramide np~0.45–0.65%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Tocopherol~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Zinc gluconate~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationExfoliationAnti-blemish

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Zinc gluconate
Sodium phytate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium phytate
Cetearyl glucoside~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside
Citric acid~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Sorbitan isostearate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Polysorbate 60~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to increase stability of product formulations

More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Isohexadecane~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane
Sodium hydroxide~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Behenyl alcohol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ci 19140~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A yellow dye

More about Ci 19140
Ci 42090~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant (dye)

More about Ci 42090
Ingredient list view

Water, Phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate, Glycerin, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Cetearyl olivate, Cetyl lactate, Cetearyl alcohol, Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, Phytosteryl/behenyl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, Sorbitan olivate, Panthenol, Zinc pca, Colloidal oatmeal, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Acetyl tetrapeptide-40, Ceramide np, Tocopherol, Zinc gluconate, Sodium phytate, Cetearyl glucoside, Citric acid, Caprylyl glycol, Sorbitan isostearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 60, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Isohexadecane, Sodium hydroxide, Behenyl alcohol, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Ci 19140, Ci 42090

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Dr. IdrissLeft Un-Red CalmBack CreamYOUR PRODUCTTHE formularxBarrier Relief Lightweight Ceramide MoisturizerRilastilAcnestil Attiva Cream
Match—50%50%
Price—$8.91$24.77
Shared key ingredients—5 of 106 of 10
Key difference—NiacinamideNiacinamide
Irritancy Low Low Low
Drying alcohol———
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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, "Dr. Idriss - Left Un-Red CalmBack Cream" works well for moisturizing the skin. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Panthenol, glycerin, zinc pca and caprylyl glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol, coco-caprylate/caprate and caprylyl glycol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.45% - 0.65%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: zinc gluconate, vitamin e and colloidal oatmeal

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be low. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 22 studies and safety reviews.

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Dr. Idriss Left Un-Red CalmBack Cream
Dr. IdrissLeft Un-Red CalmBack Cream

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