Dr. Emi Arpa Absolut A Retinal Serum

Dr. Emi Arpa Absolut A Retinal Serum

Efficacy68/100IrritancyLow

Works for

Moisturizing
Ceramide eop, Ceramide np + 20 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Ectoin and Allantoin can have soothing, antioxidant, and intensely moisturizing effects. It's absolutely amazing!”
Source: N/A

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, lactic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8, ceramide ap, ceramide eop, ceramide np, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, phytosphingosine

Ceramide eopHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.35–0.8%
Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.75%
Ceramide apHeroEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.2–0.7%
PhytosphingosineHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.15–0.65%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.35%
Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.1%
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.2%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.25%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.9–5.8%
EctoinKey activeEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~2.7–4%
Lactic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~2–3%
Chondrus crispusKey activeEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~1.4–2.1%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.35–0.85%
CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.2–0.75%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.15–0.6%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.1–0.45%
Polyglyceryl-10 stearateEffect: LowHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin~1–1.5%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.45–1%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.4–0.95%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.15–0.55%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.8%
AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.1–0.45%
Evens skin tone
Lactic acid
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: lactic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~2–3%
Anti-aging
Lactic acid, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 + 3 more
May help
What the product description says
“The combination of active ingredients consisting of 0.05% retinal, 5 peptides, and soothing agents such as 10% pre, and postbiotics is specifically designed to improve skin elasticity, counteract fine lines and wrinkles, and provides a foundation to combat impurities.”
Source: N/A

This product contains acetyl hexapeptide-8, lactic acid, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~2–3%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.35%
Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.1%
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.2%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.25%
Anti-blemish
Phytosphingosine, Allantoin
Not delivered

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

PhytosphingosineEffect: LowA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.15–0.65%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.1–0.45%
Exfoliation
Side benefit · Lactic acid, Allantoin
Works well

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: lactic acid.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~2–3%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.1–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
5 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 5 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~3.2–4.9%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~2–3%est.
Polyglyceryl-10 stearateHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skinMedium~1–1.5%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 behenateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.85–1.25%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.45–1%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Chondrus crispusRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency3/5~1.4–2.1%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.15–0.6%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~3.9–5.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate~3.2–4.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate
Ectoin~2.7–4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Ectoin
Lactic acid~2–3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Sclerotium gum~1.6–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Chondrus crispus~1.4–2.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency

More about Chondrus crispus
Xanthan gum~1.2–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Polyglyceryl-10 stearate~1–1.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-10 stearate
Polyglyceryl-6 behenate~0.85–1.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-6 behenate
Propanediol~0.5–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Caprylyl glycol~0.45–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Glyceryl caprylate~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Squalane~0.35–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Lecithin~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Ceramide eop~0.35–0.8%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide eop
Ceramide np~0.3–0.75%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Ceramide ap~0.2–0.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide ap
Cholesterol~0.2–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol
Phytosphingosine~0.15–0.65%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

More about Phytosphingosine
Allantoin~0.1–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Cetearyl alcohol~0.15–0.6%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.1–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
C18-36 acid triglyceride~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.1–0.35%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4~0.05–0.2%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.05–0.25%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.05–0.1%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, Ectoin, Lactic acid, Sclerotium gum, Chondrus crispus, Xanthan gum, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 behenate, Propanediol, Caprylyl glycol, Glyceryl caprylate, Squalane, Lecithin, Ceramide eop, Ceramide np, Ceramide ap, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Allantoin, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, C18-36 acid triglyceride, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl hexapeptide-8

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Dr. Emi ArpaAbsolut A Retinal SerumYOUR PRODUCTMakeup Artists' ChoiceTransforming Anti Aging Serum V2DRMTLGYNeedle-less SerumDr Dennis GrossDermInfusions Fill + Repair Serum
Match—50%49%47%
Price——$69.00$72.36
Shared key ingredients—9 of 158 of 1511 of 15
Key difference—BakuchiolNiacinamideColloidal Oatmeal
Irritancy Low Low Low High
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"Dr Emi Arpa - Absolut A Retinal Serum" is effective for: Moisturizing, Evens skin tone and Exfoliation

This product could be helpful for: Anti-aging, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • This product contains acids (lactic acid 2.00% - 3.00%). Their concentration is low, and they will not have a strong exfoliating effect. Instead, they work to support the skin natural acid mantle and to attract water (as humectants). Lactic acid is particularly good in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin and improving the skin barrier.
  • Ceramides (phytosphingosine 0.15% - 0.65%, ceramide ap 0.20% - 0.70%, ceramide np 0.30% - 0.75% and ceramide eop 0.35% - 0.80%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
  • Peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.05% - 0.10%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.05% - 0.25%, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 0.05% - 0.20% and palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.10% - 0.35%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that theynare helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
  • Humectants (acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.05% - 0.10%, lactic acid 2.00% - 3.00% and glycerin 3.90% - 5.80%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 13 studies and safety reviews.

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Dr. Emi Arpa Absolut A Retinal Serum
Dr. Emi ArpaAbsolut A Retinal Serum

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.