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Dr Dennis Gross Skincare Dark Spot Sun Defense SPF50
Dr Dennis Gross

Dr Dennis Gross Skincare Dark Spot Sun Defense SPF50

SPF 50Efficacy90/100IrritancyMedium·2 UV filters
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Works for

5 of 5 advertised claims delivered

Sun protection
SPF 50 · 2 UV filters
Broad spectrum
SPF 50Broad spectrumMineral filters

This product offers a good level of protection against both UVB and UVA rays.

It is a mineral sunscreen. In other words, it contains non-organic UV filters. It will probably not sting your eyes but might leave a white cast.

This product can be considered "reef safe" because it does not contain the UV filters (oxybenzone and octinoxate) that can be harmful to coral reefs when present in the water in high concentrations.

UV spectrum
UVB290–320 nmUVA II320–340 nmUVA I340–400 nm
Titanium Dioxide
Zinc Oxide
FilterCoverageWhat it doesEst. amount
Titanium Dioxide Mineral UVBUVA2 Photo-stable Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin4.9%
Zinc Oxide Mineral UVBUVA Photo-stable A broad spectrum sunblock (protects from both UVA and UVB rays). Is suitable for most sensitive skins. In small concentrations, can be used as a colorant4.42%
Reef-safe
No oxybenzone or octinoxate — the two filters banned in Hawaii, Florida Keys and Aruba.
Evens skin tone
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Skincare Dark Spot Sun Defense SPF50”
From product name

This product offers broad spectrum sun protection. It means that it can prevent hyperpigmentation and help keep the skin tone even (sun damage is the main factor causing age spots, darkening of post-acne marks and other discolorations).

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.65–0.95%
Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1–1.2%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.95–1.15%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.95–1.15%
Exfoliation
1 ingredient credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“A practising dermatologist and valued member of innumerable skin care societies, Dr. Dennis Gross is a pioneer of new and innovative ways to combat the primary signs of skin ageing.”
Source: Walmart

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.65–0.95%
Anti-aging
9 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Shielding against both UVA and UVB, the cream helps to ward off photo-damage to prevent an increase in premature ageing across your skin.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: ascorbyl glucoside, palmitoyl tripeptide-38.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

This product can also help prevent early signs of skin aging because it offers a good level of broad spectrum sun protection. Sun damage is the main cause of premature skin aging, and protecting your skin from the sun is the best anti-aging strategy.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.65–0.95%
Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1–1.2%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-38Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.65–0.95%
Zinc pcaEffect: LowA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.6–0.9%
MelatoninEffect: LowA compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincare~1.1–1.4%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.95–1.15%
Oleanolic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumMight be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin~0.6–0.95%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.95–1.15%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.95–1.15%
Moisturizing
25 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“The sun cream also ensures skin is thoroughly hydrated, smoothing away dryness for long-lasting comfort and softness.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, saccharide isomerate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: carthamus tinctorius seed oil, oenothera biennis oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tripeptide-38

Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~3.6–4.4%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.65–1%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.65–0.95%
Echium plantagineum seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin~0.75–1.15%
SphingolipidsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighSphingolipids are a group of lipids with a common chemical structure. Some of them are naturally present in skin and can be converted to ceramides~0.7–1.1%
Zinc pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.6–0.9%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-38HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.65–0.95%
Oenothera biennis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.7–1.05%
Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.7–1.05%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~6.7–8.2%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.65–1%
C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~2.6–3.2%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~0.7–1%
Coconut alkanesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin~2.2–2.6%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~2.9–3.5%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~4.6–5.6%
Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.6–0.9%
Isononyl isononanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~6.6–8%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.3–1.6%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.55–0.8%
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin~0.6–0.9%
Oleanolic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumMight be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin~0.6–0.95%
Oryza sativa extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA grain extract that helps to create a thicker product consistency. It might have some anti-oxidant properties and help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.65–0.95%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.95–1.15%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.55–0.85%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 11 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (ascorbyl glucoside, melatonin) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

MelatoninKey activeEffect: MediumA compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincare~1.1–1.4%
Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1–1.2%
Oenothera biennis oilEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.7–1.05%
Zinc pcaEffect: LowA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.6–0.9%
Boerhavia diffusa root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals~0.75–1.1%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~3.6–4.4%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.95–1.15%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.95–1.15%
Oleanolic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumMight be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin~0.6–0.95%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.95–1.15%
Oryza sativa extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA grain extract that helps to create a thicker product consistency. It might have some anti-oxidant properties and help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.65–0.95%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium dulcis flower extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis oil
Medium risk
We flagged 25 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus aurantium dulcis flower extract—High~0.6–0.9%est.
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.65–0.95%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis oilUsed as a fragrance. It can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~4.6–5.6%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~2.9–3.5%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~2.2–2.6%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~1.6–2%est.
Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~1–1.2%est.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very highMedium~0.95–1.15%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.95–1.15%est.
Nordihydroguaiaretic acidUsed to stabilize the formula of product formulation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skinMedium~0.9–1.1%est.
Echium plantagineum seed oilA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skinMedium~0.75–1.15%est.
Boerhavia diffusa root extractA plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.75–1.1%est.
Oenothera biennis oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~0.7–1.05%est.
Polyhydroxystearic acidUsed to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the formulationMedium~0.65–1%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.6–0.95%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.6–0.9%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.6–0.9%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.5–0.8%est.
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrinUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.6–0.9%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.5–0.8%est.
Isopropyl titanium triisostearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skin2/5~2.2–2.6%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Titanium dioxide4.9%
UV filterKey active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Zinc oxide4.42%
UV filterKey active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

A broad spectrum sunblock (protects from both UVA and UVB rays). Is suitable for most sensitive skins. In small concentrations, can be used as a colorant

More about Zinc oxide
Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~6.7–8.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Isononyl isononanoate~6.6–8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate
Pentylene glycol~4.6–5.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~3.6–4.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Olea europaea fruit oil~2.9–3.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
C12-15 alkyl benzoate~2.6–3.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Coconut alkanes~2.2–2.6%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Coconut alkanes
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~1.6–2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Butylene glycol~1.3–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Melatonin~1.1–1.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

A compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincare

More about Melatonin
Ascorbyl glucoside~1–1.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate~0.95–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high

More about Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.95–1.15%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Tocopherol~0.95–1.15%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Nordihydroguaiaretic acid~0.9–1.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to stabilize the formula of product formulation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Nordihydroguaiaretic acid
Echium plantagineum seed oil~0.75–1.15%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin

More about Echium plantagineum seed oil
Boerhavia diffusa root extract~0.75–1.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals

More about Boerhavia diffusa root extract
Saccharide isomerate~0.7–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate
Sodium hyaluronate~0.65–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Phospholipids~0.65–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Sphingolipids~0.7–1.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Sphingolipids are a group of lipids with a common chemical structure. Some of them are naturally present in skin and can be converted to ceramides

More about Sphingolipids
Citrus aurantium dulcis flower extract~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium dulcis flower extract
Oryza sativa extract~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A grain extract that helps to create a thicker product consistency. It might have some anti-oxidant properties and help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Oryza sativa extract
Oenothera biennis oil~0.7–1.05%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Oenothera biennis oil
Glycolic acid~0.65–0.95%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Sodium pca~0.65–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Zinc pca~0.6–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing

More about Zinc pca
Oleanolic acid~0.6–0.95%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-blemish

Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin

More about Oleanolic acid
Palmitoyl tripeptide-38~0.65–0.95%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-38
Acrylates/carbamate copolymer~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Acrylates/carbamate copolymer
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Coco-caprylate/caprate~0.7–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate
Aluminum hydroxide~0.7–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Is used to add opaque (non-transparent) appearance to formulations. Can be used to coat other ingredients for even dispersion. This is a different ingredient compared to the ones used in antipersperants (aluminium chloride and aluminium chlorohydrate)

More about Aluminum hydroxide
Polyhydroxystearic acid~0.65–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the formulation

More about Polyhydroxystearic acid
Bht~0.6–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Peg-60 almond glycerides~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-60 almond glycerides
Xanthan gum~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Disodium edta~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Citric acid~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sodium citrate~0.5–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin
Sodium hydroxide~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Isohexadecane~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane
Caprylyl glycol~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Polysorbate 60~0.5–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Carbomer~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Propanediol~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Stearic acid~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Isopropyl titanium triisostearate~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Isopropyl titanium triisostearate
Tromethamine~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl alcohol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Citrus aurantium dulcis oil~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. It can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis oil
Ingredient list view

Titanium dioxide, Zinc oxide, Water, Glycerin, Isononyl isononanoate, Pentylene glycol, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Olea europaea fruit oil, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Coconut alkanes, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Butylene glycol, Melatonin, Ascorbyl glucoside, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Tocopherol, Nordihydroguaiaretic acid, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Boerhavia diffusa root extract, Saccharide isomerate, Sodium hyaluronate, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Citrus aurantium dulcis flower extract, Oryza sativa extract, Oenothera biennis oil, Glycolic acid, Sodium pca, Zinc pca, Oleanolic acid, Palmitoyl tripeptide-38, Acrylates/carbamate copolymer, Hydrogenated lecithin, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate, Aluminum hydroxide, Polyhydroxystearic acid, Bht, Peg-60 almond glycerides, Xanthan gum, Disodium edta, Citric acid, Sodium citrate, Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, Sodium hydroxide, Isohexadecane, Caprylyl glycol, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Propanediol, Stearic acid, Isopropyl titanium triisostearate, Tromethamine, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl alcohol, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Citrus aurantium dulcis oil

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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, we believe that this product can offer reliable sun protection. We love that it can protect from both UVA and UVB rays (not all sunscreens with SPF ratings give UVA protection. UVA rays do not cause sunburn, but still damage our skin and lead to early aging).

Because it includes good moisturizing ingredients, it can also work as a hydrating day cream. This product prevents early signs of aging by protecting against sun damage (all broad spectrum sunscreens do that).

Sunscreen filters

This is a mineral sunscreen. It uses titanium dioxide and zinc oxide for sun protection. Both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide almost never irritate even the most sensitive skin and eyes, but can leave a white cast.

Irritation risk

This product contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this sunscreen to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dr Dennis Gross" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails from 41.58$ up to 46.00$ in the United States, for 46.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 80.50CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 40 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    A review of inorganic UV filters zinc oxide and titanium dioxideonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  2. 2
    Risk assessment of zinc oxide, a cosmetic ingredient used as a UV filter of sunscreensncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Characterization of the UVA protection provided by avobenzone, zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide in broad-spectrum sunscreen productsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Ultraviolet Protection Properties of Commercial Sunscreens and Sunscreens Containing Zno Nanorodsiopscience.iop.org
  5. 5
    ZnO nanoparticles and organic chemical UV-filters are equally well tolerated by human immune cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Dr Dennis Gross Skincare Dark Spot Sun Defense SPF50
Dr Dennis GrossSkincare Dark Spot Sun Defense SPF50
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