What's In My Jar
Dr Dennis Gross Sérum perfecteur affinant anti pores Alpha Beta
Dr Dennis Gross

Dr Dennis Gross Sérum perfecteur affinant anti pores Alpha Beta

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging
Retinol, Glycolic acid + 3 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Fine Lines and Wrinkles, Pores, and Oiliness Formulation.”
Source: Sephora

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol, glycolic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.65%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.4–0.95%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.7%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.75%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.35–0.85%
Anti-blemish
Salicylic acid, Retinol + 6 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Sérum perfecteur affinant anti pores Alpha Beta”
From product name

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol, salicylic acid. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycolic acid, mandelic acid

Salicylic acidHeroEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.45–1%
RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.65%
Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: MediumHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.55–1.3%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.4–0.95%
Carnitine hclEffect: LowMight be helpful in decreasing sebum production making the skin less oily. Is claimed to be able to support ceramide production in skin that leads to better hydration, but evidence is lacking. Is able to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.95–1.4%
Salix alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.3–0.7%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.75%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractUnder-dosedCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.1–0.35%
Exfoliation
Mandelic acid, Salicylic acid + 5 more
Works well
What the product description says
“This pore-perfecting treatment features farnesol, adipic acid, and agarikon mushroom to help dissolve waxy buildup within pore walls and flush away impurities.”
Source: Sephora

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid, mandelic acid, retinol, salicylic acid.

Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.55–1.3%
Salicylic acidKey activeEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.45–1%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.4–0.95%
RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.65%
UreaKey activeEffect: MediumNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.15–0.7%
Salix alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.3–0.7%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.35–0.85%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Urea, Glycerin + 12 more
Works well

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: jojoba alcohol, jojoba esters.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: urea

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.15–0.7%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.4–2.1%
Carnitine hclKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumMight be helpful in decreasing sebum production making the skin less oily. Is claimed to be able to support ceramide production in skin that leads to better hydration, but evidence is lacking. Is able to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.95–1.4%
Jojoba alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: High~0.35–0.8%
Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.3–0.75%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.7%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–1.2%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.7%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.75%
Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~0.15–0.65%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.35–0.85%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.3–0.75%
PanthenolUnder-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.15–0.7%
Pyrus malus fruit extractUnder-dosedCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.1–0.4%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Retinol, Mandelic acid + 5 more
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

In addition, this product contains glycolic acid, mandelic acid, salicylic acid. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: hexylresorcinol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.65%
Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.55–1.3%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.4–0.95%
Salicylic acidEffect: LowUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.45–1%
HexylresorcinolEffect: LowMight be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals in skin~0.2–0.7%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.75%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.35–0.85%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Quercetin, Hexylresorcinol + 11 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - hexylresorcinol, quercetin also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

QuercetinKey activeEffect: MediumMight be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.2–0.7%
HexylresorcinolKey activeEffect: MediumMight be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals in skin~0.2–0.7%
RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.65%
Salix alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.3–0.7%
Prunus persica fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extact. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.65%
Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extractEffect: LowA berry extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.05–0.25%
Rubus idaeus fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.05–0.25%
Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~0.15–0.65%
BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.15–0.7%
Pyrus malus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.1–0.4%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.1–0.35%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.7%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
30 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 30 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~1.25–2.5%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~4.6–6.9%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~2.3–3.4%est.
Mandelic acidHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acidHigh~0.55–1.3%est.
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.4–0.95%est.
Fomes officinalis extractA fungus extract that can help to create a temporary tightening feeling on the skinHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
Salix alba bark extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effectHigh~0.3–0.7%est.
Hamamelis virginiana waterA plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.7%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Anthemis nobilis flower extractA plant extract that one one hand, can contain compounds that can help calm down skin irritation, but, on the other hand, its other compounds (especially fragrant ones) can themselves be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
Citrus limon peel extractA very irritating fragrant ingredientHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
Rose extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Prunus persica fruit extractA fruit extact. Might have some anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Jasminum officinale flower/leaf extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.1–0.3%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract—High~0.1–0.4%est.
Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extractA berry extract. Might have some anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
Vanilla planifolia fruit extractA plant extract used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
EthoxydiglycolHelps to improve the product consistencyMedium~1.7–2.5%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.35–0.85%est.
Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsMedium~0.2–0.8%est.
HexylresorcinolMight be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals in skinMedium~0.2–0.7%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~0.3–0.75%est.
Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.3–0.75%est.
Cucumis sativus fruit extractMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effectMedium~0.15–0.65%est.
Triethyl citrateUsed as a fragrance. Rarely causes irritationMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Rubus idaeus fruit extractA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lackingMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Fucus vesiculosus extract—3/5~0.1–0.45%est.
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Triple-Threat Peel
EmerginC Triple-Threat Peel
Cheaper71% match
$64.11
for pore size
Remedy for pore size
Cheaper64% match
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Salicylic acid~1.25–2.5%
Hero · Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Farnesol~4.6–6.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Ficus carica extract~4.7–7.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ficus carica extract
Water~3.2–4.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Propylene glycol~2.3–3.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Ethoxydiglycol~1.7–2.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to improve the product consistency

More about Ethoxydiglycol
Glycerin~1.4–2.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Polysorbate 80~1.1–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80
Carnitine hcl~0.95–1.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizingAnti-blemish

Might be helpful in decreasing sebum production making the skin less oily. Is claimed to be able to support ceramide production in skin that leads to better hydration, but evidence is lacking. Is able to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Carnitine hcl
Mandelic acid~0.55–1.3%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-blemishAntibacterial

Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid

More about Mandelic acid
Butylene glycol~0.5–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Salicylic acid~0.45–1%
Hero · Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Farnesol~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Glycolic acid~0.4–0.95%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Lactic acid~0.35–0.85%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Adipic acid~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Adipic acid
Fomes officinalis extract~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fungus extract that can help to create a temporary tightening feeling on the skin

More about Fomes officinalis extract
Opuntia ficus-indica stem extract~0.35–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Opuntia ficus-indica stem extract
Salix alba bark extract~0.3–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishExfoliation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect

More about Salix alba bark extract
Phytic acid~0.2–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics

More about Phytic acid
Siraitia grosvenorii fruit extract~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Siraitia grosvenorii fruit extract
Hamamelis virginiana water~0.2–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating

More about Hamamelis virginiana water
Bisabolol~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Pentasodium pentetate~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps preserve the product formulation

More about Pentasodium pentetate
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.2–0.75%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-blemish

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Hexylresorcinol~0.2–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Hexylresorcinol
Quercetin~0.2–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Quercetin
Tocopherol~0.2–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Dimethyl isosorbide~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Panthenol~0.15–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Urea~0.15–0.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea
Jojoba alcohol~0.35–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Jojoba alcohol
Jojoba esters~0.3–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Retinol~0.15–0.65%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliationAnti-aging

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose
Polysorbate 20~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Potassium hydroxide~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide
Octoxynol-9~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Octoxynol-9
Isopropyl jojobate~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Isopropyl jojobate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Cucumis sativus fruit extract~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect

More about Cucumis sativus fruit extract
Anthemis nobilis flower extract~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that one one hand, can contain compounds that can help calm down skin irritation, but, on the other hand, its other compounds (especially fragrant ones) can themselves be irritating

More about Anthemis nobilis flower extract
Citrus limon peel extract~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A very irritating fragrant ingredient

More about Citrus limon peel extract
Rose extract~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rose extract
Triethyl citrate~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used as a fragrance. Rarely causes irritation

More about Triethyl citrate
Pyrus malus fruit extract~0.1–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus malus fruit extract
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.1–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Prunus persica fruit extract~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A fruit extact. Might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Prunus persica fruit extract
Coriandrum sativum fruit/leaf extract~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Coriandrum sativum fruit/leaf extract
Jasminum officinale flower/leaf extract~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Jasminum officinale flower/leaf extract
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract
Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract
Fucus vesiculosus extract~0.1–0.45%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Fucus vesiculosus extract
Rubus idaeus fruit extract~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Rubus idaeus fruit extract
Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extract~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A berry extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extract
Vanilla planifolia fruit extract~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Vanilla planifolia fruit extract
Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Sodium benzoate~0.05–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Ingredient list view

Salicylic acid, Farnesol, Ficus carica extract, Water, Propylene glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Glycerin, Polysorbate 80, Carnitine hcl, Mandelic acid, Butylene glycol, Salicylic acid, Farnesol, Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Adipic acid, Fomes officinalis extract, Opuntia ficus-indica stem extract, Salix alba bark extract, Phytic acid, Siraitia grosvenorii fruit extract, Hamamelis virginiana water, Bisabolol, Pentasodium pentetate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Hexylresorcinol, Quercetin, Tocopherol, Sodium hyaluronate, Dimethyl isosorbide, Panthenol, Urea, Jojoba alcohol, Jojoba esters, Retinol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 20, Potassium hydroxide, Octoxynol-9, Isopropyl jojobate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cucumis sativus fruit extract, Anthemis nobilis flower extract, Citrus limon peel extract, Rose extract, Triethyl citrate, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Prunus persica fruit extract, Coriandrum sativum fruit/leaf extract, Jasminum officinale flower/leaf extract, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract, Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract, Fucus vesiculosus extract, Rubus idaeus fruit extract, Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extract, Vanilla planifolia fruit extract, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium benzoate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Dr Dennis GrossSérum perfecteur affinant anti pores Alpha BetaYOUR PRODUCTEmerginCTriple-Threat PeelMuradAdvanced Acne and Wrinkly ReducerDr. David JackFace Paints Red by Dr David Jack
Match—71%70%70%
Price$86.00$64.11−$21.89—$126.35+$40.35
Shared key ingredients—4 of 187 of 185 of 18
Key difference—Vitamin CVitamin CKaolin
Irritancy High Medium High Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 37 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Beta Hydroxy Acidsfda.gov
  3. 3
    A review of toxicity from topical salicylic acid preparationssciencedirect.com
  4. 4
    Glycolic Acid Peels Versus Salicylic–Mandelic Acid Peels in Active Acne Vulgaris and Post‐Acne Scarring and Hyperpigmentation: A Comparative Studyonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Dr Dennis Gross Sérum perfecteur affinant anti pores Alpha Beta
Dr Dennis GrossSérum perfecteur affinant anti pores Alpha Beta
Buy at Sephora$86.00Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Sephora$86.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.