Dr. Barbara Sturm

Dr. Barbara Sturm Darker Skin Tones Face Cream

Name: Dr. Barbara Sturm - Darker Skin Tones Face Cream
Brand: Dr. Barbara Sturm

Efficacy56/100IrritancyMedium

See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing

Panthenol, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed + 16 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Extracts of Magnolia and Enantia Chlorantha (African Whitewood) Bark refine pores, address sebum flow and provide intense hydration.”

Source: Beautylish

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydrolyzed algae extract.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.4–0.6%

Prunus amygdalus dulcis seedKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~5.1–6.2%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.8–4.7%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~3.1–3.8%

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.7–2.1%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.5–1.8%

Decyl oleateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.95–1.2%

Persea gratissima oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~0.75–1.1%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

Hydrolyzed algae extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

PantolactoneKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2.3–2.8%

Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~1.9–2.4%

Cocoglycerides· EmollientEffect: LowHelp soften the upper layer of the skin and make it easier for oil and water mix together. Recently, a rising number of allergic reactions to cocoglycerides and other coconut-derived surfactants has been reported. As there is a significant overlap between frequent irritants and allergens, we flag this ingredient for attention of those with very sensitive, reactive skin~1.2–1.5%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.25%

Coco-caprylateUnder-dosedAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture~0.55–0.8%

Oleanolic acidUnder-dosedMight be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin~0.1–0.2%

Anti-aging

Vitis vinifera seed extract, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 4 more

May help

What the product description says

“Purslane, an anti-aging powerhouse, reduces the visible signs of irritation.”

Source: Beautylish

This product contains vitis vinifera seed extract. There is some human evidence that this ingredient helps reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin elasticity and firmness, though it is smaller or less consistent than the evidence for the best anti-aging ingredients.

Vitis vinifera seed extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation~0.1–0.15%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.7–2.1%

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.15–0.3%

Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.05–0.1%

Evens skin tone

Lactobacillus/portulaca oleracea ferment extract, Ascorbic acid

Not delivered

What the product description says

“Radiance boosting Lumicol, which comes from micro-algae, lightens hyperpigmentation, evening out skin tone and lending the complexion a fresh and even glow.”

Source: Beautylish

This product contains ingredients (lactobacillus/portulaca oleracea ferment extract) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

Lactobacillus/portulaca oleracea ferment extractEffect: LowObtained from fermenting a plant extract with bacteria Lactobacillus. The resulting compound might be able to calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.55–0.8%

Anti-blemish

Oleanolic acid ~0.1–0.2%, below the ~1% it needs

Under-dosed

What the product description says

“The Darker Skin Tones products are formulated with potent active ingredients including Purslane to nourish the skin, combat oxidative stress, and soothe the visible signs of irritation, Lumicol to reduce hyper-pigmentation and even out skin tone, and Extracts of Magnolia and Enatia Clorantha (African Whitewood) to minimize the appearance of pores and reduce the prevalence of break-outs.”

Source: SpaceNK US

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Anti-oxidation

Side benefit · Vitis vinifera seed extract, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 6 more

Works well

This product contains antioxidants (vitis vinifera seed extract) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Vitis vinifera seed extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation~0.1–0.15%

Enantia chlorantha bark extractEffect: LowA bark extract that might help clam down inflammation and neutralize free radicals , but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.25–0.45%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.45–0.7%

TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Alcohol

Medium risk

We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

CocoglyceridesHelp soften the upper layer of the skin and make it easier for oil and water mix together. Recently, a rising number of allergic reactions to cocoglycerides and other coconut-derived surfactants has been reported. As there is a significant overlap between frequent irritants and allergens, we flag this ingredient for attention of those with very sensitive, reactive skinHigh~1.2–1.5%est.

Enantia chlorantha bark extractA bark extract that might help clam down inflammation and neutralize free radicals , but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lackingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~3.1–3.8%est.

Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~0.75–1.1%est.

Coco-caprylateAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.55–0.8%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.45–0.7%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.15–0.3%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.7–2.1%est.

Hydrolyzed algae extractHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.2–0.35%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.5–1.8%est.

Decyl oleateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~0.95–1.2%est.

Alternatives

Cheaper, or higher on efficacy

celimax Dual Barrier Skin Wearable Cream

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~5.1–6.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed

Glycerin~3.8–4.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~3.1–3.8%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Butylene glycol~2.3–2.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Glyceryl stearate citrate~1.9–2.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate

Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.7–2.1%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Cetearyl alcohol~1.5–1.8%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Cocoglycerides~1.2–1.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Help soften the upper layer of the skin and make it easier for oil and water mix together. Recently, a rising number of allergic reactions to cocoglycerides and other coconut-derived surfactants has been reported. As there is a significant overlap between frequent irritants and allergens, we flag this ingredient for attention of those with very sensitive, reactive skin

More about Cocoglycerides

Decyl oleate~0.95–1.2%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Decyl oleate

Persea gratissima oil~0.75–1.1%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil

Lactobacillus/portulaca oleracea ferment extract~0.55–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryEvens skin toneAnti-blemishReduces irritationReduces redness

Obtained from fermenting a plant extract with bacteria Lactobacillus. The resulting compound might be able to calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties, but solid evidence is missing

More about Lactobacillus/portulaca oleracea ferment extract

Coco-caprylate~0.55–0.8%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture

More about Coco-caprylate

Tocopheryl acetate~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Maris aqua~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Sea water. Helps dissolve other ingredients in a product

More about Maris aqua

Phenoxyethanol~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Panthenol~0.4–0.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Carbomer~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Maltodextrin~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin

Xanthan gum~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Enantia chlorantha bark extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A bark extract that might help clam down inflammation and neutralize free radicals , but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Enantia chlorantha bark extract

Lecithin~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Teprenone~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Teprenone

Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Sodium hydroxide~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate

Disodium edta~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Alcohol~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Hydrolyzed algae extract~0.2–0.35%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed algae extract

Pantolactone~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Pantolactone

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Magnolia officinalis bark extract~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Magnolia officinalis bark extract

Citric acid~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Tocopherol~0.15–0.25%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Oleanolic acid~0.1–0.2%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-blemish

Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin

More about Oleanolic acid

Ascorbic acid~0.05–0.1%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid

Vitis vinifera seed extract~0.1–0.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAntibacterial

A plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation

More about Vitis vinifera seed extract

Ingredient list view

Water, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Butylene glycol, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Cetearyl alcohol, Cocoglycerides, Decyl oleate, Persea gratissima oil, Lactobacillus/portulaca oleracea ferment extract, Coco-caprylate, Tocopheryl acetate, Maris aqua, Phenoxyethanol, Panthenol, Carbomer, Maltodextrin, Xanthan gum, Enantia chlorantha bark extract, Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Teprenone, Sodium hyaluronate, Sodium hydroxide, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Disodium edta, Alcohol, Hydrolyzed algae extract, Pantolactone, Ascorbyl palmitate, Magnolia officinalis bark extract, Citric acid, Tocopherol, Oleanolic acid, Ascorbic acid, Vitis vinifera seed extract

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SpaceNK US

≈ $198.40

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Bluemercury

$240.00

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Beautylish50 ml

$240.00

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$304.00 Out of stock

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Dr. Barbara SturmDarker Skin Tones Face CreamYOUR PRODUCT	celimaxDual Barrier Skin Wearable Cream	THE formularxBarrier plus	NiveaMens Sensitive Moisturiser
Match	—	64%	62%	62%
Price	≈ $198.40	$14.22≈ −$184.18	$9.01≈ −$189.39	$5.29≈ −$193.11
Shared key ingredients	—	5 of 11	5 of 11	5 of 11
Key difference	—	Ceramide Ap	Ceramide Np	—
Irritancy	Medium	Medium	Low	Low
Drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Dr. Barbara Sturm - Darker Skin Tones Face Cream" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Dr. Barbara Sturm - Darker Skin Tones Face Cream ticks this box. Panthenol, glycerin, hydrolyzed algae extract, pantolactone and sodium hyaluronate in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (persea gratissima oil, butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetearyl alcohol and decyl oleate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.05% - 0.10%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin c, vitamin e and lecithin

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dr. Barbara Sturm" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails from 225.00$ up to 324.00$ in the United States, for 595.04A$ in Australia, from 140.00£ up to 1200.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 304.00CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.