Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
- Anti-blemish
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 4
Key actives
Product Summary
Judging from the ingredient list, "Dr. Barbara Sturm - Darker Skin Tones Face Cream" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Dr. Barbara Sturm - Darker Skin Tones Face Cream ticks this box. Panthenol, glycerin, hydrolyzed algae extract, pantolactone and sodium hyaluronate in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (persea gratissima oil, butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetearyl alcohol and decyl oleate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.05% - 0.10%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
About the brand
According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dr. Barbara Sturm" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.
Price
The product retails from 225.00$ up to 324.00$ in the United States, for 595.04A$ in Australia, from 140.00£ up to 1200.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 304.00CA$ in Canada.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (vitis vinifera seed extract) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
A plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
A bark extract that might help clam down inflammation and neutralize free radicals , but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking
An emollient that softens the skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Extracts of Magnolia and Enantia Chlorantha (African Whitewood) Bark help refine pores, reduce sebum flow and provide intense hydration.
Source: Bluemercury
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, hydrolyzed algae extract.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
An emollient that softens the skin
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Help soften the upper layer of the skin and make it easier for oil and water mix together. Recently, a rising number of allergic reactions to cocoglycerides and other coconut-derived surfactants has been reported. As there is a significant overlap between frequent irritants and allergens, we flag this ingredient for attention of those with very sensitive, reactive skin
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin
Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin
An emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Our anti-aging hero ingredient, Purslane, activates the skin’s own anti-oxidant defense system, protects against free radicals and soothes the skin.
Source: Bluemercury
This product contains vitis vinifera seed extract. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
A plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
An emollient that softens the skin
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
The active protecting ingredient Telovitin, delivers an additional anti-aging benefit.Key Benefits Extracts of Magnolia and Enantia Chlorantha (African Whitewood) Bark help refine the pores, reduce excess sebum and supply intensive moisture.The radiance-boosting active ingredient Lumicol helps even out skin tone and lends the complexion a fresh glow.Purslane helps activates the skin’s own anti-oxidant defense system, soothes the complexion and protects against free radical attack.The active protective ingredient Telovitin, which is based on Nobel Prize-winning discoveries, provides an additional anti-aging benefit.
Source: Bluemercury
This product contains ingredients (lactobacillus/portulaca oleracea ferment extract) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.
Obtained from fermenting a plant extract with bacteria Lactobacillus. The resulting compound might be able to calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties, but solid evidence is missing
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
Extracts of Magnolia and Enantia Chlorantha (African Whitewood) Bark help refine pores, reduce sebum flow and provide intense hydration.
Source: Bluemercury
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.
Obtained from fermenting a plant extract with bacteria Lactobacillus. The resulting compound might be able to calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties, but solid evidence is missing
Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Anti-aging | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 56/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Dr. Barbara Sturm Darker Skin Tones Face Cream | Current | $132.00 | |
celimax Dual Barrier Skin Wearable Cream | 65% | $18.30 | |
Cetaphil Redness Relieving Night Moisturizer | 63% | $13.99 | |
 Elizabeth Grant Collagen Re-Inforce 3D Advanced 24HR Face Cream | 61% | - | |
 Balea Urea night face cream | 61% | $69.90 | |
 Eucerin Elasticity + Filler Night Cream | 60% | $35.00 |
Key Actives
Obtained from fermenting a plant extract with bacteria Lactobacillus. The resulting compound might be able to calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties, but solid evidence is missing
A plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Potential irritants
Help soften the upper layer of the skin and make it easier for oil and water mix together. Recently, a rising number of allergic reactions to cocoglycerides and other coconut-derived surfactants has been reported. As there is a significant overlap between frequent irritants and allergens, we flag this ingredient for attention of those with very sensitive, reactive skin
A bark extract that might help clam down inflammation and neutralize free radicals , but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function
An emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Comedogenic ingredients
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
All ingredients
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Help soften the upper layer of the skin and make it easier for oil and water mix together. Recently, a rising number of allergic reactions to cocoglycerides and other coconut-derived surfactants has been reported. As there is a significant overlap between frequent irritants and allergens, we flag this ingredient for attention of those with very sensitive, reactive skin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function
Obtained from fermenting a plant extract with bacteria Lactobacillus. The resulting compound might be able to calm down inflammation and have some anti-oxidant properties, but solid evidence is missing
An emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Dissolves other ingredients. It does not have additional skin benefits compared to plain water
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations
Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil
A bark extract that might help clam down inflammation and neutralize free radicals , but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
A plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation
Ingredient list view
Water, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Butylene glycol, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Cetearyl alcohol, Cocoglycerides, Decyl oleate, Persea gratissima oil, Lactobacillus/portulaca oleracea ferment extract, Coco-caprylate, Tocopheryl acetate, Sea water, Maris aqua, Phenoxyethanol, Panthenol, Carbomer, Maltodextrin, Xanthan gum, Enantia chlorantha bark extract, Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Teprenone, Sodium hyaluronate, Sodium hydroxide, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Disodium edta, Alcohol, Hydrolyzed algae extract, Pantolactone, Ascorbyl palmitate, Magnolia officinalis bark extract, Citric acid, Tocopherol, Oleanolic acid, Ascorbic acid, Vitis vinifera seed extract
- Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Therapeutic Advantages of Medicinal Herbs fermented with Lactobacillus plantarum, in Topical Application and its Activities on Atopic Dermatitis
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Anti-oxidant, Histopathology and LD50 Evaluation of Ethanol Stem Bark Extract of Enantia chlorantha in Rodents
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Effectiveness of the formulation that containing oleanolic acid 3% on inhibition of 5-α reductase activity on skin of patients with acne
- The effect of ursolic and oleanolic acids on human skin fibroblast cells
- Safety Assessment of Vitis Vinifera (Grape)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- The Topical Effect of Grape Seed Extract 2% Cream on Surgery Wound Healing
- Review of the Pharmacological Effects of Vitis vinifera (Grape) and its Bioactive Constituents: An Update