Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Masque

Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Masque

Efficacy87/100IrritancyMedium

Works for

Moisturizing
Urea, Glycerin + 19 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Restore critical moisture to stressed skin with Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Masque, a refreshing gel masque of calming botanicals and antioxidant vitamins.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, aspartic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: urea

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.25–0.45%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–5.3%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~3.1–3.8%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2.4–2.9%
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.7%
Solanum lycopersicum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and, due to the high linoleic acid content, can support the skin's barrier function~0.9–1.15%
Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.55–0.8%
TriethylhexanoinKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
FructoseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%
AlanineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.25–0.4%
SucroseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~0.25–0.45%
Aspartic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%
Glutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.25–0.5%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.9–4.8%
Dextrin· HumectantEffect: LowA sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.25–0.5%
Hydrogenated polydecene· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~0.25–0.4%
Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~0.65–0.95%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–0.7%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.2–0.4%
Anti-aging
Aspartic acid, Tocopherol
May help
What the product description says
“Formulated with bitter orange and cucumber to help reduce inflammation, Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Masque restores suppleness while minimising the appearance of fine lines.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product contains aspartic acid. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Aspartic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–0.7%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, Daucus carota sativa root extract + 2 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might contain antioxidants~1.6–1.9%
Daucus carota sativa root extractEffect: LowCarrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color~0.4–0.65%
Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~0.65–0.95%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–0.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Hexyl nicotinate
Medium risk
We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractA plant extract that might contain antioxidantsHigh~1.6–1.9%est.
Hexyl nicotinateMight be able to enhance blood flow in the skin. Can be irritating and result in skin rednessHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Glyceryl oleateHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerAttracts water into the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.4–1.7%est.
Cucumis sativus fruit extractMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effectMedium~0.65–0.95%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.55–0.8%est.
TriethylhexanoinHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulationMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Sea saltUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation3/5~0.35–0.6%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.55–0.8%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.4–5.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~3.9–4.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Squalane~3.1–3.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Dimethicone~2.4–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Leuconostoc/sorbus aucuparia fruit ferment filtrate~1.8–2.3%
Formula
Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract~1.6–1.9%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might contain antioxidants

More about Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer~1.4–1.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer
Codium tomentosum extract~1.1–1.4%
Formula
Solanum lycopersicum seed oil~0.9–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and, due to the high linoleic acid content, can support the skin's barrier function

More about Solanum lycopersicum seed oil
Cucumis sativus fruit extract~0.65–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect

More about Cucumis sativus fruit extract
Glycine soja oil~0.55–0.8%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Tocopherol~0.5–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color

More about Daucus carota sativa root extract
Beta-carotene~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene
Salicornia herbacea extract~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Triethylhexanoin~0.3–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Triethylhexanoin
Carrageenan~0.35–0.6%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5

Helps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation

More about Carrageenan
Fructose~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Fructose
Glucose~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Sucrose~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion

More about Sucrose
Urea~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea
Dextrin~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Dextrin
Alanine~0.25–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking

More about Alanine
Glutamic acid~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutamic acid
Aspartic acid~0.25–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles

More about Aspartic acid
Hexyl nicotinate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
De-puffing

Might be able to enhance blood flow in the skin. Can be irritating and result in skin redness

More about Hexyl nicotinate
Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate
Hydrogenated polydecene~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated polydecene
Trideceth-10~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Trideceth-10
Behenyl alcohol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Cocamide mipa~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Surfactant - foam booster, viscosity increasing agent - aqueous, emulsifying, emulsion stabilising, foam boosting, surfactant, and viscosity controlling. Comes from coconut acid. Doesn't appear to be a common irritant

More about Cocamide mipa
Glyceryl oleate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Glyceryl oleate
Calcium citrate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Calcium citrate
Hexylene glycol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Sea salt~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Sea salt
Sodium carbomer~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps improve the texture

More about Sodium carbomer
Potassium hydroxide~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide
Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Squalane, Dimethicone, Leuconostoc/sorbus aucuparia fruit ferment filtrate, Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, Codium tomentosum extract, Solanum lycopersicum seed oil, Cucumis sativus fruit extract, Glycine soja oil, Tocopherol, Daucus carota sativa root extract, Beta-carotene, Salicornia herbacea extract, Triethylhexanoin, Carrageenan, Fructose, Glucose, Sucrose, Urea, Dextrin, Alanine, Glutamic acid, Aspartic acid, Hexyl nicotinate, Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Hydrogenated polydecene, Trideceth-10, Behenyl alcohol, Cocamide mipa, Glyceryl oleate, Calcium citrate, Hexylene glycol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Sea salt, Sodium carbomer, Potassium hydroxide, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
DermalogicaSkin Hydrating MasqueYOUR PRODUCTCollistarS.O.S. Moisturising Hydro-MaskUriageEau Thermale Water Sleeping MaskKiehl'sUltra Facial Overnight Hydrating Masque
Match—54%53%51%
Price—$33.05$19.40$45.61
Shared key ingredients—4 of 174 of 174 of 17
Key difference—PullulanAnhydroxylitolButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Irritancy Medium Medium Medium Low
Drying alcohol—— Contains drying alcohol —
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 19 studies and safety reviews.

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Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Masque
DermalogicaSkin Hydrating Masque

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