Dermalogica

Dermalogica powerbright dark spot peel

Name: Dermalogica - powerbright dark spot peel
Brand: Dermalogica

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing

Niacinamide, Glycerin + 22 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Barrier-restoring Omega-3 blend, derived from algae, sooths skin and helps reduce triggers that lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”

Source: Dermalogica

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, cocos nucifera oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.6–2%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.5–5.5%

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~1.4–1.7%

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.7–1.05%

Elaeis guineensis butterKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA type of palm oil. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.6–0.9%

SqualeneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.3–0.5%

Tranexamic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally~0.3–0.6%

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens the skin~0.3–0.5%

Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.25–0.4%

Ricinus communis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~0.25–0.5%

Beta-sitosterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated~0.25–0.5%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.25–0.5%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~4–4.8%

Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.5–0.75%

Arachidyl alcohol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency~0.45–0.65%

Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.3–0.55%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.3–0.55%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%

Myristyl alcohol· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritating~0.25–0.5%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%

Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.3–0.55%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.35–0.6%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.3–0.55%

Evens skin tone

Glycolic acid, Niacinamide + 4 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Visibly lift dark spots in just 5 uses : this at-home peel helps visibly lift surface hyperpigmentation – including UV-induced dark spots, post-blemish marks, and melasma for a wide range of skin tones.”

Source: Dermalogica

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: gluconolactone, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, niacinamide, tranexamic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~2.3–2.8%

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.6–2%

Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.95–1.15%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.3–0.55%

Exfoliation

Glycolic acid, Gluconolactone + 1 more

Works well

What the product description says

“This fast-acting formula with an AHA + PHA blend, including Mandelic Acid, helps to quickly exfoliate away the appearance of stubborn hyperpigmentation while Tranexamic Acid and Niacinamide helps even skin tone.”

Source: Dermalogica

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: gluconolactone, glycolic acid, mandelic acid.

Anti-blemish

Not advertised by the brand · Niacinamide, Glycolic acid + 2 more

Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: gluconolactone, glycolic acid, mandelic acid

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~2.3–2.8%

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~1.4–1.7%

Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: MediumHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.95–1.15%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · Glycolic acid, Niacinamide + 5 more

Works well

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains gluconolactone, glycolic acid, niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.7–1.05%

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin~0.3–0.5%

Ilex paraguariensis leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain fragrand compounds like linalool that can be irritating~0.2–0.4%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Gluconolactone, Squalene + 5 more

May help

This product contains antioxidants (gluconolactone, ilex paraguariensis leaf extract, squalene) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

SqualeneKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.3–0.5%

Ilex paraguariensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain fragrand compounds like linalool that can be irritating~0.2–0.4%

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin~0.3–0.5%

BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.2–0.4%

TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

8 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil + 6 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 24 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~2.3–2.8%est.

Mandelic acidHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acidHigh~0.95–1.15%est.

Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Citrus paradisi peel oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Zingiber officinale root oilAn essential oil that is likely to be irritating and can cause photosensitivityHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Curcuma longa root extractA plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritantHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Ilex paraguariensis leaf extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain fragrand compounds like linalool that can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Myristyl alcoholHelps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~1.4–1.7%est.

Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsMedium~1.1–1.4%est.

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.35–0.6%est.

Ricinus communis seed oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Juniperus virginiana oilCedarwood oil. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

PhosphatidylcholineUsed to enhance the delivery of other ingredientsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

EthoxydiglycolHelps to improve the product consistencyMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

3 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.7–1.05%est.

Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.25–0.4%est.

SqualeneAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast2/5~0.3–0.5%est.

Alternatives

Cheaper, or higher on efficacy

Glossier Solution

Cheaper84% match

$30.00

skintific AHA BHA PHA Exfoliating Pads

Cheaper80% match

$18.90

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.5–5.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Butylene glycol~4–4.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Lactobacillus/pumpkin fruit ferment filtrate~3.1–3.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Lactobacillus/pumpkin fruit ferment filtrate

Glycolic acid~2.3–2.8%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid

Polysorbate 20~1.9–2.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Niacinamide~1.6–2%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

C12-18 alkanoyl glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer

Not recognized

Gluconolactone~1.4–1.7%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

ExfoliationMoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone

Phytic acid~1.1–1.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics

More about Phytic acid

Mandelic acid~0.95–1.15%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemishAntibacterial

Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid

More about Mandelic acid

Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.7–1.05%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Elaeis guineensis butter~0.6–0.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A type of palm oil. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis butter

Sodium hydroxide~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine

Hectorite~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hectorite

Behenyl alcohol~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol

Arachidyl alcohol~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency

More about Arachidyl alcohol

Tranexamic acid~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally

More about Tranexamic acid

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate

Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.35–0.6%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil

Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil

Citrus limon peel oil~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil

Citrus paradisi peel oil~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus paradisi peel oil

Ricinus communis seed oil~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Ricinus communis seed oil

Zingiber officinale root oil~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An essential oil that is likely to be irritating and can cause photosensitivity

More about Zingiber officinale root oil

Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil

Jasminum sambac flower extract~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Jasminum sambac flower extract

Vanilla planifolia fruit~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Vanilla planifolia fruit

Viola odorata leaf extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Viola odorata leaf extract

Cocos nucifera oil~0.25–0.4%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate

Peat extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Peat extract

Juniperus virginiana oil~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Cedarwood oil. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Juniperus virginiana oil

Curcuma longa root extract~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant

More about Curcuma longa root extract

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

An emollient that softens the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil

Isochrysis galbana extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Isochrysis galbana extract

Nannochloropsis gaditana extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Nannochloropsis gaditana extract

Ilex paraguariensis leaf extract~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain fragrand compounds like linalool that can be irritating

More about Ilex paraguariensis leaf extract

Cucumis sativus seed oil~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cucumis sativus seed oil

Mimosa tenuiflora bark extract~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Mimosa tenuiflora bark extract

Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Squalene~0.3–0.5%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast

More about Squalene

Phosphatidylcholine~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Used to enhance the delivery of other ingredients

More about Phosphatidylcholine

Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Lecithin~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Glyceryl stearate~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Lauryl alcohol~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Lauryl alcohol

Ethoxydiglycol~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to improve the product consistency

More about Ethoxydiglycol

Arachidyl glucoside~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Arachidyl glucoside

Palmitic acid~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid

Myristyl alcohol~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritating

More about Myristyl alcohol

Bisabolol~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Polyquaternium-80~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Polyquaternium-80

Didecyldimonium chloride~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Didecyldimonium chloride

Beta-sitosterol~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated

More about Beta-sitosterol

Dipteryx odorata seed extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Dipteryx odorata seed extract

Xanthan gum~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Methylpropanediol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Methylpropanediol

Cetyl alcohol~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Titanium dioxide~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate

Citric acid~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Stearic acid~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose

Cistus ladaniferus resin~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cistus ladaniferus resin

Styrax benzoin resin extract~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Styrax benzoin resin extract

Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Limonene~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Lactobacillus/pumpkin fruit ferment filtrate, Glycolic acid, Polysorbate 20, Niacinamide, Unknown, Gluconolactone, Phytic acid, Mandelic acid, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Elaeis guineensis butter, Sodium hydroxide, Tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, Hectorite, Behenyl alcohol, Arachidyl alcohol, Tranexamic acid, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Citrus limon peel oil, Citrus paradisi peel oil, Ricinus communis seed oil, Zingiber officinale root oil, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Jasminum sambac flower extract, Vanilla planifolia fruit, Viola odorata leaf extract, Cocos nucifera oil, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Peat extract, Juniperus virginiana oil, Curcuma longa root extract, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Isochrysis galbana extract, Nannochloropsis gaditana extract, Ilex paraguariensis leaf extract, Cucumis sativus seed oil, Mimosa tenuiflora bark extract, Tocopherol, Squalene, Phosphatidylcholine, Caprylyl glycol, Lecithin, Glyceryl stearate, Lauryl alcohol, Ethoxydiglycol, Arachidyl glucoside, Palmitic acid, Myristyl alcohol, Bisabolol, Polyquaternium-80, Didecyldimonium chloride, Beta-sitosterol, Dipteryx odorata seed extract, Xanthan gum, Methylpropanediol, Cetyl alcohol, Titanium dioxide, Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, Citric acid, Stearic acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Cistus ladaniferus resin, Styrax benzoin resin extract, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Limonene

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$84.00

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Dermalogicapowerbright dark spot peelYOUR PRODUCT	GlossierSolution	skintificAHA BHA PHA Exfoliating Pads	BeautyBioThe Peel
Match	—	84%	80%	80%
Price	$84.00	$30.00−$54.00	$18.90−$65.10	$54.28−$29.72
Shared key ingredients	—	4 of 18	5 of 18	4 of 18
Key difference	—	Salicylic Acid	Salicylic Acid	Salicylic Acid
Irritancy	High	Low	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

More alternatives: Zombie Beauty Bloody Peel Comfort Zone Sublime Skin Peel Pad

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Product summary

"Dermalogica - powerbright dark spot peel" is effective for: Exfoliation, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemish, Moisturizing and Anti-aging

Ingredient callouts

A good concentration of Niacinamide (1.60% - 2.00%). Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
This product contains acids (gluconolactone 0.90% - 1.10%, mandelic acid 0.55% - 0.85% and glycolic acid 2.30% - 2.80%). Their concentration is low, and they will not have a strong exfoliating effect. Instead, they work to support the skin natural acid mantle and to attract water (as humectants). PHAs (gluconolactone) especially are great for improving skin hydration. They might be even able to stimulate the production of skin's natural humectants and support the healthy skin microbiome.
Humectants (glycerin 1.50% - 1.80% and glycerin 4.50% - 5.50%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dermalogica" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Price

The product retails for 84.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 50 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinmdpi.com
5
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acnencbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
The Polyhydroxy Acid Gluconolactone Protects Against Ultraviolet Radiation in an In Vitro Model of Cutaneous Photoagingonlinelibrary.wiley.com
9
Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivityncbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
The efficacy of glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A combined with 0.1% adapalene vs adapalene monotherapy in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris: a double-blinded within-person comparative studydovepress.com
11
A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin
13
Blackwell Publishing, Ltd. Alpha-hydroxyacids and carboxylic acidsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
14
An evaluation of a polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen in combination with azelaic acid 15% gel in rosacea patientsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
15
Aging Skin: Causes, Treatments, and Preventionsciencedirect.com
16
Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacidssciencedirect.com
17
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) Provide Conditioning Effects to Skin Without Increasing Sensitivity to UV Lightneostrata.neogen.gr
18
Cosmetic and dermatologic use of alpha hydroxy acidsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
19
Comparative Evaluation of Efficacy and Tolerability of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Mandelic Acid, and Phytic Acid Combination Peels in Melasmancbi.nlm.nih.gov
20
Summary of mandelic acid for the improvement of skin conditionsnucelle.com
21
Comparative Evaluation of Efficacy and Tolerability of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Mandelic Acid, and Phytic Acid Combination Peels in Melasmajournals.lww.com
22
Effect of tranexamic acid on melasma: a clinical trial with histological evaluationonlinelibrary.wiley.com
23
Tranexamic acid accelerates skin barrier recovery and upregulates occludin in damaged skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
24
The amelioration effect of tranexamic acid in wrinkles induced by skin drynesssciencedirect.com
25
Efficacy and possible mechanisms of topical tranexamic acid in melasmaonlinelibrary.wiley.com
26
Ameliorating effect of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate on an IL-4- and IL-13-induced atopic dermatitis-like skin-equivalent modelresearchgate.net
27
Final report on the safety assessment of Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Potassium Glycyrrhetinate, Disodium Succinoyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate, Methyl Glycyrrhizate, and Potassium Glycyrrhizinate.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
28
Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
29
Oxidized citrus oil (R-limonene): A frequent skin sensitizer in Europesciencedirect.com
30
Air oxidation increases skin irritation from fragrance terpenesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
31
Final report on the safety assessment of Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate SE, Ricinoleic Acid, Potassium Ricinoleate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Zinc Ricinoleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Ethyl Ricinoleate, Glycol Ricinoleate, Isopropyl Ricinoleate, Methyl Ricinoleate, and Octyldodecyl Ricinoleatencbi.nlm.nih.gov
32
Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial Productionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
33
Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
34
Zingiber officinale Rosc. essential oil, a review on its composition and bioactivitylink.springer.com
35
Vaughn, A. R., Branum, A., & Sivamani, R. K. (2016). Effects of Turmeric (Curcuma longa) on Skin Health: A Systematic Review of the Clinical Evidence. Phytotherapy Research, 30(8), 1243–1264. doi:10.1002/ptr.5640ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
36
Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oilsmdpi.com
37
Topical formulation containing Ilex Paraguariensis extract increases metalloproteinases and myeloperoxidase activities in mice exposed to UVB radiationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Chemical composition and antioxidant activity of yerba-mate (Ilex paraguariensis A.St.-Hil., Aquifoliaceae) extract as obtained by spray dryingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
39
Essential oil and antioxidant activity of green mate and mate tea (Ilex paraguariensis) infusionssciencedirect.com
40
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
41
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
42
Squalene and its potential clinical useseuropepmc.org
43
Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology mdpi.com
44
Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxidesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
45
Cosmetic allergy from myristyl alcoholncbi.nlm.nih.gov
46
Contact Sensitization to Emulsifying Agents: An Underrated Issue?journals.lww.com
47
Patch testing with myristyl alcoholresearchgate.net
48
α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammationresearchgate.net
49
Safety Assessment of Phytosterols as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
50
The Ameliorative Effect of β-sitosterol on DNCB-induced Atopic Dermatitis in Micebslonline.org

Dermalogicapowerbright dark spot peel

Buy at Dermalogica$84.00 $87.00as of 11/5 15:16 GMT

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Dermalogica$84.00 $87.00as of 11/5 15:16 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.