Works for
ExfoliationLactic acid, Mandelic acid + 1 moreWorks well
“Dedicated to rescuing tired, weary faces, its combination of activated Binchotan Charcoal and Sulfur work in tandem to powerfully absorb impurities whilst encouraging cell turnover; its exfoliating properties help slough away dulling dead skin cells to reveal bright and radiant skin beneath.”
This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: lactic acid, mandelic acid.
Anti-blemishSide benefit · Sulfur, Niacinamide + 3 moreWorks well
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide, sulfur. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: mandelic acid
MoisturizingSide benefit · Niacinamide, Lactic acid + 6 moreWorks well
This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": galactoarabinan, glycerin.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide
Evens skin toneSide benefit · Lactic acid, Niacinamide + 2 moreWorks well
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: lactic acid, mandelic acid, niacinamide
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Anti-agingSide benefit · Lactic acid, Niacinamide + 1 moreWorks well
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: lactic acid.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Anti-oxidationSide benefit · Naringenin, Tocopheryl acetateMay help
This product contains antioxidants (naringenin) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy4 strong irritants: Hamamelis virginiana water, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil + 2 more — patch-test recommendedHigh risk
ComedogenicClean of flagged comedogenic ingredientsNone flagged
User reviews
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Ingredients
Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.
Water~45–55%
Kaolin~6.5–8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of clay that consists mainly of aluminum silicate. Helps absorb oil and creates a thicker product consistency. Can be used to add a white color
More about KaolinBentonite~4.8–5.9%
Maris limus extract~3.4–4.2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Sulfur~2.6–3.2%
Lactic acid~2.1–2.6%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
More about Lactic acidNiacinamide~1.7–2.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
More about NiacinamideMicrocrystalline cellulose~1.6–2%
Hamamelis virginiana water~1.1–1.3%
- Irritation risk
- High
A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating
More about Hamamelis virginiana waterButylene glycol~0.95–1.2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
More about Butylene glycolMandelic acid~0.7–1.05%
- Irritation risk
- High
Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid
More about Mandelic acidCalcium sulfate~0.95–1.15%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Bambusa arundinacea stem extract~0.5–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Tocopheryl acetate~0.5–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
More about Tocopheryl acetateCharcoal powder~0.65–0.95%
Volcanic ash~0.6–0.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Peumus boldus leaf extract~0.45–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Phytic acid~0.4–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics
More about Phytic acidNaringenin~0.35–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A flavanoid that can be found in high concentrations in grapefruits, oranges, other citrus fruits, and tomato skin. Early studies suggest that it might be able to help reduce inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals
More about NaringeninDipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening
More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizateMelaleuca alternifolia leaf oil~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- High
An essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties
More about Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oilEucalyptus globulus leaf oil~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- High
An essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties
More about Eucalyptus globulus leaf oilMentha arvensis leaf oil~0.25–0.45%
Panthenyl triacetate~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A stable oil-soluble derivative of vitamin B5. It can help support skin barrier and reduce inflammation in skin
More about Panthenyl triacetateGlycerin~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinGalactoarabinan~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
More about GalactoarabinanGlyceryl polyacrylate~0.2–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps to create a nice product texture and spread the product more easily on the skin
More about Glyceryl polyacrylateXanthan gum~0.2–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a thicker product consistency
More about Xanthan gumEthylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.25%
1,2-hexanediol~0.1–0.25%
Benzoic acid~0.15–0.25%
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
More about PhenoxyethanolIngredient list view
Water, Kaolin, Bentonite, Maris limus extract, Sulfur, Lactic acid, Niacinamide, Microcrystalline cellulose, Hamamelis virginiana water, Butylene glycol, Mandelic acid, Calcium sulfate, Bambusa arundinacea stem extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Charcoal powder, Volcanic ash, Peumus boldus leaf extract, Phytic acid, Naringenin, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil, Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, Mentha arvensis leaf oil, Panthenyl triacetate, Glycerin, Galactoarabinan, Glyceryl polyacrylate, Xanthan gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, Benzoic acid, Phenoxyethanol
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Worth comparing, line by line.
Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.
| DermalogicaCharcoal Rescue Face MasqueYOUR PRODUCT | AMELIORATEBlemish Overnight Clearing Therapy | StarfaceExfoliating Night Water | TarteKnockout Tingling Treatment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Match | — | 77% | 76% | 76% |
| Price | — | $6.80 | $13.37 | — |
| Shared key ingredients | — | 6 of 10 | 4 of 10 | 4 of 10 |
| Key difference | — | — | Gluconolactone | Salicylic Acid |
| Irritancy | High | Low | High | High |
| Drying alcohol | — | — | — | — |
| View product | Shop | Shop | Shop |
More alternatives: skintific AHA BHA PHA Exfoliating PadsBiologique Recherche Lotion P50 PIGM 400
Product summary
"Dermalogica - Charcoal Rescue Face Masque" is effective for: Anti-blemish, Moisturizing, Evens skin tone, Exfoliation and Anti-aging
This product could be helpful for: Anti-oxidation, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.
Ingredient callouts
- A good concentration of Niacinamide (1.70% - 2.10%). Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
- This product contains acids (mandelic acid 0.70% - 1.05% and lactic acid 2.10% - 2.60%). Their concentration is low, and they will not have a strong exfoliating effect. Instead, they work to support the skin natural acid mantle and to attract water (as humectants). Lactic acid is particularly good in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin and improving the skin barrier.
- Humectants (lactic acid 2.10% - 2.60%, glycerin 0.25% - 0.50% and galactoarabinan 0.25% - 0.45%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.
About the brand
According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dermalogica" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.
Price
The product retails for 49.00$ in the United States.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.
- 1Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 2Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org
- 3
- 4
- 5
- 6
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