Dermadoctor

Dermadoctor KP Duty Dermatologist Formulated Therapy for Dry, Rough, Bumpy Skin

Name: Dermadoctor - KP Duty Dermatologist Formulated Therapy for Dry, Rough, Bumpy Skin
Brand: Dermadoctor

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

8 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Incomparable PHA chemically exfoliates, offers anti-aging antioxidant benefits and is a mega-moisturizing humectant able to hold 4x its weight in water compared to hyaluronic acid Lactobionic Acid.”

Source: SkincareRX

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid, lactobionic acid.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: lactic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Lactobionic acidKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity~0.65–1%

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~1.1–1.4%

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~2.7–3.3%

GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.8–1.2%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.5%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.65%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.8–1.2%

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.5%

Exfoliation

6 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“KP Duty Dermatologist Formulated Therapy for Dry, Rough, Bumpy Skin”

From product name

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid, lactic acid, lactobionic acid.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~2.7–3.3%

UreaKey activeEffect: MediumNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~4.4–5.4%

Salix alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.6–0.9%

Moisturizing

23 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“KP Duty Dermatologist Formulated Therapy for Dry, Rough, Bumpy Skin”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, lactic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalene.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: caprooyl phytosphingosine, ceramide ap, ceramide eop, ceramide eos, ceramide np, ceramide ns, lactobionic acid, urea

Lactobionic acidHeroEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity~0.65–1%

Ceramide nsHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.6–0.9%

CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.5–0.75%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.3–0.55%

Lactic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~2.7–3.3%

SqualeneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.5–0.75%

Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.25–0.5%

Theobroma grandiflorum seed butterKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layer~0.45–0.65%

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~4.4–5.4%

Caprooyl phytosphingosineHero· EmollientEffect: HighA component of ceramides. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.5–0.75%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~3.5–4.3%

Ceramide apHeroEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.5–0.7%

Ceramide eopHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.55–0.8%

Ceramide eosHeroEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.55–0.8%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.65–1%

C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~5–6.1%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.2–0.35%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.4–1.7%

Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~2.2–2.7%

Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.8–1.2%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 10 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (lactobionic acid, superoxide dismutase) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - squalene also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

SqualeneKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.5–0.75%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.4–0.6%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.5%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.65%

GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.8–1.2%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · 6 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid, lactic acid, lactobionic acid

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.4–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

2 strong irritants: Boswellia carterii oil, Rosa damascena extract

Medium risk

We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~1.1–1.4%est.

Salix alba bark extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effectHigh~0.6–0.9%est.

Boswellia carterii oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.65%est.

Rosa damascena extractOil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.High~0.25–0.5%est.

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~3.5–4.3%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~2.7–3.3%est.

GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.8–1.2%est.

Lactobionic acidA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticityMedium~0.65–1%est.

Theobroma grandiflorum seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layerMedium~0.45–0.65%est.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.4–0.6%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.25–0.5%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Ceteareth-25Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Behenic acidHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.8–1.2%est.

SqualeneAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast2/5~0.5–0.75%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

C12-15 alkyl benzoate~5–6.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate

Urea~4.4–5.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~3.5–4.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Lactic acid~2.7–3.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Sorbitol~2.2–2.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol

Sorbitan stearate~1.8–2.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate

Peg-100 stearate~1.6–1.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate

Glyceryl stearate~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Glycolic acid~1.1–1.4%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

ExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid

Gluconolactone~0.8–1.2%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone

Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.8–1.2%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Sodium hydroxide~0.7–1.05%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Lactobionic acid~0.65–1%

Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity

More about Lactobionic acid

Salix alba bark extract~0.6–0.9%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishExfoliation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect

More about Salix alba bark extract

Ceramide np~0.65–1%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Ceramide ns~0.6–0.9%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide ns

Ceramide eos~0.55–0.8%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide eos

Ceramide eop~0.55–0.8%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide eop

Ceramide ap~0.5–0.7%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide ap

Sphingosine

Not recognized

Caprooyl phytosphingosine~0.5–0.75%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A component of ceramides. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Caprooyl phytosphingosine

Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter~0.45–0.65%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layer

More about Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter

Cholesterol~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingCleansing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol

Squalene~0.5–0.75%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast

More about Squalene

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.45–0.65%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishMoisturizingEvens skin tone

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.4–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract

Boswellia serrata extract~0.4–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Boswellia serrata extract

Indian

Not recognized

Boswellia carterii oil~0.35–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Boswellia carterii oil

Rosa damascena extract~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract

Superoxide dismutase~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants

More about Superoxide dismutase

Tocopherol~0.3–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Glycerin~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Propylene glycol~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol

Xanthan gum~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Polysorbate 60~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium chloride~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride

Sorbitan isostearate~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate

Ceteareth-25~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Ceteareth-25

Cetyl alcohol~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Behenic acid~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Behenic acid

Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Ingredient list view

Water, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Urea, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Lactic acid, Sorbitol, Sorbitan stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Glyceryl stearate, Glycolic acid, Gluconolactone, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Sodium hydroxide, Lactobionic acid, Salix alba bark extract, Ceramide np, Ceramide ns, Ceramide eos, Ceramide eop, Ceramide ap, Unknown, Caprooyl phytosphingosine, Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, Cholesterol, Squalene, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Boswellia serrata extract, Unknown, Boswellia carterii oil, Rosa damascena extract, Superoxide dismutase, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl palmitate, Glycerin, Propylene glycol, Xanthan gum, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium chloride, Sorbitan isostearate, Ceteareth-25, Cetyl alcohol, Behenic acid, Phenoxyethanol

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Dermadoctor - KP Duty Dermatologist Formulated Therapy for Dry, Rough, Bumpy Skin" works well for improving skin hydration As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Humectants in this product (urea, glycerin, lactic acid and sorbitol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Caprooyl phytosphingosine, ceramide eop, ceramide np, ceramide ns and cholesterol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

As a plus, this moisturizer also contains ceramides (caprooyl phytosphingosine 0.50% - 0.75%, ceramide ap 0.50% - 0.70%, ceramide eop 0.55% - 0.80%, ceramide eos 0.55% - 0.80%, ceramide ns 0.60% - 0.90% and ceramide np 0.65% - 1.00%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dermadoctor" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails from 31.00£ up to 43.32£ in the United Kingdom and for 38.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 43 studies and safety reviews.

1
Topical urea in skincare: A reviewpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org
4
Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinmdpi.com
7
A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acnencbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
The Polyhydroxy Acid Gluconolactone Protects Against Ultraviolet Radiation in an In Vitro Model of Cutaneous Photoagingonlinelibrary.wiley.com
9
Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivityncbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
The efficacy of glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A combined with 0.1% adapalene vs adapalene monotherapy in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris: a double-blinded within-person comparative studydovepress.com
11
A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin
13
Blackwell Publishing, Ltd. Alpha-hydroxyacids and carboxylic acidsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
14
An evaluation of a polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen in combination with azelaic acid 15% gel in rosacea patientsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
15
Aging Skin: Causes, Treatments, and Preventionsciencedirect.com
16
Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacidssciencedirect.com
17
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) Provide Conditioning Effects to Skin Without Increasing Sensitivity to UV Lightneostrata.neogen.gr
18
Lactobionic acidmdedge.com
19
Effects of lactobionic acid peel, aluminum oxide crystal microdermabrasion, and both procedures on skin hydration, elasticity, and transepidermal water lossonlinelibrary.wiley.com
20
Comparative evaluation of skin moisture after topical application of 10% and 30% lactobionic acidonlinelibrary.wiley.com
21
Efficacy and Safety of White Willow Bark (Salix alba) Extractonlinelibrary.wiley.com
22
An evaluation of the effect of a topical product containing salicin on the visible signs of human skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
23
Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
24
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
25
Topical emulsions containing ceramides: Effects on the skin barrier function and anti‐inflammatory propertiesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
26
Advanced Skin Care – A Novel Ingredientncbi.nlm.nih.gov
27
Squalene and its potential clinical useseuropepmc.org
28
Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology mdpi.com
29
Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxidesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
30
A novel efficient and safe treatment for atopic dermatitis: Topical superoxide dismutase (SOD).alliedacademies.org
31
Novel topical agent containing superoxide dismutase 100 000 IU and 4% of plant extracts as a mono-therapy for atopic dermatitispubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
32
Copper/Zinc Superoxide Dismutase in Human Skin: Current Knowledgefrontiersin.org
33
Photoprotective Effect of Topically Applied Superoxide Dismutase on Sunburn Reaction in Comparison with Sunscreenonlinelibrary.wiley.com
34
The role of superoxide dismutase (SOD) in skin disorderslink.springer.com
35
Topical formulations with superoxide dismutase: Influence of formulation composition on physical stability and enzymatic activityresearchgate.net
36
Skin protective effects of RM191A, a novel superoxide dismutase mimeticbiorxiv.org
37
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
39
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
40
Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
41
Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
42
Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
43
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Ceteareth-2, -3, -4, -5, -6, -7, -8, -9, -10, -11, -12, -13, -14, -15, -16, -17, -18,-20,-22,-23,-24,-25,-27, -28, -29, -30, -33, -34, -40, -50, -55, -60, -80, and -100journals.sagepub.com

DermadoctorKP Duty Dermatologist Formulated Therapy for Dry, Rough, Bumpy Skin

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