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Crème de la Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream Moisturizer
Crème de la Mer

Crème de la Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream Moisturizer

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, Acetyl hexapeptide-8 + 38 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Moisturizing Soft Cream Moisturizer”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: sesamum indicum seed oil, cetyl alcohol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, urea

Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.15–0.6%
Glucose oxidaseKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%
Micrococcus lysateKey activeEffect: HighConsists of remains of dead bacteria cells. Is likely helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation and neutralizing free radicals in skin. It is claimed to be a "DNA repair enzyme"~0.15–0.6%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%
Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.6%
Sesamum indicum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~2–3.1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.5–3.7%
Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.6%
UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.15–0.6%
LactoperoxidaseKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In theory, could support healthy skin's microbiome, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.15–0.6%
TriethylhexanoinKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.55%
TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%
SucroseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~0.15–0.55%
CyanocobalaminKey activeEffect: HighCan support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin~0.15–0.6%
Plankton extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.55%
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineKey activeEffect: MediumIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~0.15–0.6%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.15–0.6%
Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.75%
Hydrolyzed alginKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumDerived from brown algae. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%
Macadamia integrifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin~4.6–6.9%
Medicago sativa seed powderKey activeEffect: MediumMight help soften the upper layer of the skin and help thicken the product formulation. It might have some anti-oxidant effect~1.5–2.3%
Diethylhexyl succinateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~3.8–5.7%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.2–0.8%
Chlorella vulgaris extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.15–0.6%
Crithmum maritimum extractKey activeEffect: MediumAn algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.55%
Magnesium gluconateEffect: LowA mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking~0.35–0.8%
Isocetyl stearoyl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.75%
Polyquaternium-51Effect: LowAn emollient that helps create a nice silky finish on the skin~0.35–0.8%
C13-14 isoparaffin· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency~0.2–0.75%
Calcium gluconate· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product~0.4–0.9%
Polysilicone-11Effect: LowA silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel~22–33%
Peg-8· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency~0.15–0.6%
Glyceryl polymethacrylate· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture~0.2–0.75%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: HighA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.2–0.8%
Laminaria saccharina extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations~0.15–0.6%
Copper gluconateUnder-dosedEffect: HighTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing~0.4–0.95%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.3–0.7%
Zinc gluconateUnder-dosedEffect: HighTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.3–0.7%
Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.6%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.8%
Anti-aging
Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, Acetyl hexapeptide-8 + 7 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“helps skin reverse and resist visible signs of aging”
Source: Sephora CA

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains palmitoyl hexapeptide-12.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl hexapeptide-8.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12Key activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.6%
Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.6%
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineEffect: LowIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~0.15–0.6%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.15–0.6%
NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.2–0.8%
Zinc gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.3–0.7%
Copper gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing~0.4–0.95%
Laminaria saccharina extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations~0.15–0.6%
Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
10 strong irritants: Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, Citrus aurantifolia peel extract + 8 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 31 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Eucalyptus globulus leaf oilAn essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.8–1.25%est.
NiacinA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effectHigh~0.2–0.8%est.
Citrus aurantifolia peel extract—High~0.15–0.65%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
TriacetinUsed to dissolve other ingredientsHigh~0.35–0.75%est.
Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.5%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.5%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.5%est.
HydroxycitronellalA fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.5%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.5%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Medicago sativa seed powderMight help soften the upper layer of the skin and help thicken the product formulation. It might have some anti-oxidant effectMedium~1.5–2.3%est.
Copper gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missingMedium~0.4–0.95%est.
Zinc gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skinMedium~0.3–0.7%est.
Tocopheryl succinateUsed to preserve the product formulationMedium~0.3–0.75%est.
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory propertiesMedium~0.15–0.6%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.15–0.6%est.
CaffeineMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyesMedium~0.15–0.6%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.15–0.6%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.3–0.7%est.
TriethylhexanoinHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
PolyacrylamideUsed to improve product texture and help oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Peg-8Used to create a nice product consistencyMedium~0.15–0.6%est.
Laureth-7Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.65%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
7 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
7 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.15–0.6%est.
Crithmum maritimum extractAn algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties3/5~0.15–0.55%est.
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.15–0.55%est.
Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties3/5~0.15–0.6%est.
Hydrolyzed alginDerived from brown algae. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.15–0.6%est.
Laminaria saccharina extractA seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations3/5~0.15–0.6%est.
Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~0.2–0.75%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Polysilicone-11~22–33%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel

More about Polysilicone-11
Glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate~4.1–6.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate
Macadamia integrifolia seed oil~4.6–6.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Macadamia integrifolia seed oil
Diethylhexyl succinate~3.8–5.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Diethylhexyl succinate
Glycerin~2.5–3.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Sesamum indicum seed oil~2–3.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function

More about Sesamum indicum seed oil
Medicago sativa seed powder~1.5–2.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help soften the upper layer of the skin and help thicken the product formulation. It might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Medicago sativa seed powder
Helianthus annuus seedcake~1.5–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken the product consistency

More about Helianthus annuus seedcake
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed meal~1.2–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps thicken the product texture

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed meal
Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil~0.8–1.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil
Sodium gluconate~0.5–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate
Copper gluconate~0.4–0.95%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliationAnti-oxidation

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing

More about Copper gluconate
Calcium gluconate~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product

More about Calcium gluconate
Magnesium gluconate~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking

More about Magnesium gluconate
Zinc gluconate~0.3–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationExfoliationAnti-blemish

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Zinc gluconate
Tocopheryl succinate~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to preserve the product formulation

More about Tocopheryl succinate
Niacin~0.2–0.8%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect

More about Niacin
Sesamum indicum seed powder~0.2–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sesamum indicum seed powder
Water~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Citrus aurantifolia peel extract~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantifolia peel extract
Laminaria digitata extract~0.15–0.6%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract
Crithmum maritimum extract~0.15–0.55%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties

More about Crithmum maritimum extract
Salicornia herbacea extract~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Salicornia herbacea extract
Plankton extract~0.15–0.55%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Plankton extract
Chlorella vulgaris extract~0.15–0.6%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

More about Chlorella vulgaris extract
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.15–0.6%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8
Caffeine~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
De-puffingAnti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes

More about Caffeine
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.15–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12~0.15–0.6%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Triethylhexanoin~0.15–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Triethylhexanoin
Sodium pca~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Cetyl alcohol~0.2–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Isocetyl stearoyl stearate~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Isocetyl stearoyl stearate
Cyanocobalamin~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Can support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin

More about Cyanocobalamin
C13-14 isoparaffin~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency

More about C13-14 isoparaffin
Distearyldimonium chloride~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Distearyldimonium chloride
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Is claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness

More about Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline
Sucrose~0.15–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion

More about Sucrose
Hydrogenated vegetable oil~0.2–0.75%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil
Trehalose~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Hydrolyzed algin~0.15–0.6%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Derived from brown algae. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed algin
Micrococcus lysate~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

Consists of remains of dead bacteria cells. Is likely helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation and neutralizing free radicals in skin. It is claimed to be a "DNA repair enzyme"

More about Micrococcus lysate
Lactoperoxidase~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In theory, could support healthy skin's microbiome, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Lactoperoxidase
Glucose oxidase~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glucose oxidase
Urea~0.15–0.6%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea
Glucose~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Laminaria saccharina extract~0.15–0.6%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A seaweed extract that contains sugars and can be helpful in attracting water to the upper layers of the skin if used in high enough concentrations

More about Laminaria saccharina extract
Sea water~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Dissolves other ingredients. It does not have additional skin benefits compared to plain water

More about Sea water
Polyacrylamide~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to improve product texture and help oil and water mix together

More about Polyacrylamide
Glyceryl polymethacrylate~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture

More about Glyceryl polymethacrylate
Peg-8~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8
Laureth-7~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Laureth-7
Lecithin~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Triacetin~0.35–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used to dissolve other ingredients

More about Triacetin
Sodium chloride~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride
Polyquaternium-51~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps create a nice silky finish on the skin

More about Polyquaternium-51
Potassium phosphate~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps regulate the pH of the formulation

More about Potassium phosphate
Alcohol denat.~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.
Parfum~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Limonene~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Linalool~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Hydroxycitronellal~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritating

More about Hydroxycitronellal
Citronellol~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Bht~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Disodium edta~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Sorbic acid~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Ingredient list view

Polysilicone-11, Glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate, Macadamia integrifolia seed oil, Diethylhexyl succinate, Glycerin, Sesamum indicum seed oil, Medicago sativa seed powder, Helianthus annuus seedcake, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed meal, Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, Sodium gluconate, Copper gluconate, Calcium gluconate, Magnesium gluconate, Zinc gluconate, Tocopheryl succinate, Niacin, Sesamum indicum seed powder, Water, Citrus aurantifolia peel extract, Laminaria digitata extract, Crithmum maritimum extract, Salicornia herbacea extract, Plankton extract, Chlorella vulgaris extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Tocopheryl acetate, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Caffeine, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Sodium pca, Cetyl alcohol, Isocetyl stearoyl stearate, Cyanocobalamin, C13-14 isoparaffin, Distearyldimonium chloride, Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, Sucrose, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Trehalose, Hydrolyzed algin, Micrococcus lysate, Lactoperoxidase, Glucose oxidase, Urea, Glucose, Laminaria saccharina extract, Sea water, Polyacrylamide, Glyceryl polymethacrylate, Peg-8, Laureth-7, Lecithin, Triacetin, Sodium chloride, Polyquaternium-51, Potassium phosphate, Alcohol denat., Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Geraniol, Bht, Disodium edta, Sorbic acid, Chlorphenesin, Potassium sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium benzoate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Crème de la MerThe Moisturizing Soft Cream MoisturizerYOUR PRODUCTPerricone MDNeuropeptide Night Cream
Match—50%
Price$353.69$99.00−$254.69
Shared key ingredients—7 of 20
Key difference—Dipeptide-2
Irritancy High High
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol —
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 32 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Fatty acids profile of oil from nine varieties of Macadamia nuttandfonline.com
  2. 2
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Protein and oil composition of sesame seeds (Sesamum indicum, L.) grown in the Gizan area of Saudi Arabiatandfonline.com
  4. 4
    Triglyceride composition of Sesamum indicum seed oilonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Seed oil content and fatty acid composition in East African sesame (Sesamum indicum L.) accessions evaluated over 3 yearssciencedirect.com
  6. 6
    Antioxidant Activity and Cytotoxicity of Medicago sativa L. Seeds and Herb Extract on Skin Cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Crème de la Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream Moisturizer
Crème de la MerThe Moisturizing Soft Cream Moisturizer
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Buy at Sephora$380.00Amazon

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