COSRX AC Collection Ultimate Spot Cream

COSRX AC Collection Ultimate Spot Cream

Efficacy25/100IrritancyMedium

Works for

Moisturizing
Helianthus annuus seed oil, Glycerin + 11 more
Works
What the product description says
“Asiatic Acid strengthens the skin’s natural barrier and works to maintain its balance, while Madecassic Acid repairs and protects the surface.”
Source: Recreate Yourself

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: betaine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, helianthus annuus seed oil.

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~5.6–8.4%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.9–5.8%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.4–3.7%
BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~1.6–2.4%
Elaeis guineensis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.4–2.1%
Elaeis guineensis kernel oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.7%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.6–1.35%
Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.35–0.8%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.35–0.75%
Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.3–0.7%
Aloe barbadensis leaf waterEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but data on its effectiveness is lacking. While the majority of the content is plain water, it can contain some goodies like vitamins, enzymes, minerals, and humectants that help attract water into the skin~23–34%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~5.9–8.8%
Scutellaria baicalensis root extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties~0.4–0.95%
Anti-blemish
No ingredient credited for this claim
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Effectively targets acne and blemishes at the source”
Source: Cosrx

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Evens skin tone
No ingredient credited for this claim
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Combatting excess sebum and rebalancing the skin’s natural pH level, this cream helps to improve the tone and texture of skin.”
Source: Recreate Yourself

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Asiaticoside, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.35–0.75%
Scutellaria baicalensis root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties~0.4–0.95%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Asiaticoside
May help

This product contains asiaticoside. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.35–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Illicium verum fruit extract, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil
Medium risk
We flagged 10 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Illicium verum fruit extractAnise fruit extract. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–1.05%est.
Scutellaria baicalensis root extractA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant propertiesHigh~0.4–0.95%est.
Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oilAn essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
Ethyl hexanediolUsed to dissolve other ingredients. Might be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf waterTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but data on its effectiveness is lacking. While the majority of the content is plain water, it can contain some goodies like vitamins, enzymes, minerals, and humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~23–34%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.4–2.2%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.55–1.25%est.
AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.35–0.75%est.
Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.3–0.7%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.4–3.7%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Aloe barbadensis leaf water~23–34%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but data on its effectiveness is lacking. While the majority of the content is plain water, it can contain some goodies like vitamins, enzymes, minerals, and humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf water
Butylene glycol~5.9–8.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~5.6–8.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Glycerin~3.9–5.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Zinc oxide~4.1–6.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

A broad spectrum sunblock (protects from both UVA and UVB rays). Is suitable for most sensitive skins. In small concentrations, can be used as a colorant

More about Zinc oxide
Cetearyl alcohol~2.4–3.7%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Dimethyl sulfone~1.9–2.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps dissolve other ingredients

More about Dimethyl sulfone
Betaine~1.6–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Polysorbate 60~1.4–2.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Elaeis guineensis oil~1.4–2.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis oil
Elaeis guineensis kernel oil~1.1–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Elaeis guineensis kernel oil
Cetearyl olivate~0.95–1.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Sorbitan olivate~0.8–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
1,2-hexanediol~0.55–1.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Calamine~0.6–1.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Calamine
Dimethicone~0.6–1.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Illicium verum fruit extract~0.45–1.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Anise fruit extract. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Illicium verum fruit extract
Scutellaria baicalensis root extract~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties

More about Scutellaria baicalensis root extract
Xanthan gum~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil
Ethyl hexanediol~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used to dissolve other ingredients. Might be irritating

More about Ethyl hexanediol
Asiaticoside~0.35–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationReduces irritationAnti-aging

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside
Asiatic acid~0.35–0.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid
Madecassic acid~0.3–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid
Ingredient list view

Aloe barbadensis leaf water, Butylene glycol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Glycerin, Zinc oxide, Cetearyl alcohol, Dimethyl sulfone, Betaine, Polysorbate 60, Elaeis guineensis oil, Elaeis guineensis kernel oil, Cetearyl olivate, Sorbitan olivate, 1,2-hexanediol, Calamine, Dimethicone, Illicium verum fruit extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Xanthan gum, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil, Ethyl hexanediol, Asiaticoside, Asiatic acid, Madecassic acid

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$18.20
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$28.57
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
COSRXAC Collection Ultimate Spot CreamYOUR PRODUCTDr. Barbara SturmThe Ultimate Stinky Pimple TreatmentBeplainCicaterol Spot TreatmentVT CosmeticsGarlic AC Reedle Shot Patch
Match—50%49%47%
Price$18.20—$16.50−$1.70$4.77−$13.43
Shared key ingredients—5 of 85 of 84 of 8
Key difference—PanthenolMadecassosideMadecassoside
Irritancy Medium Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol— Contains drying alcohol ——
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Product summary

"COSRX - AC Collection Ultimate Spot Cream" could be helpful for: Anti-aging and Moisturizing, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassic acid 0.30% - 0.70%, asiatic acid 0.35% - 0.80% and asiaticoside 0.35% - 0.75% The Centella Asiatica Actives, even in low concentration, can help reduce inflammation in skin, strengthen the skin barrier and reduce photodamage. They can also help to decrease scarring.
  • Humectants (betaine 1.60% - 2.40% and glycerin 3.90% - 5.80%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "COSRX" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails from 18.20$ up to 25.00$ in the United States, from 30.00A$ up to 45.00A$ in Australia, from 22.49£ up to 29.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 43.80CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 25 studies and safety reviews.

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COSRX AC Collection Ultimate Spot Cream
COSRXAC Collection Ultimate Spot Cream

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.