What's In My Jar
Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk Dreams Come True
Charlotte Tilbury

Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk Dreams Come True

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
44 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“NEW IN , DR JART This velvety cream delivers a burst of long-lasting hydration whilst protecting the skin barrier. SHOP NOW”
Source: SpaceNK

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: galactoarabinan, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cera microcristallina, copernicia cerifera wax.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Copernicia cerifera waxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency~0.5–1.1%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.9%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.45–1.05%
Ricinus communis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~0.45–1%
DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.45–1.05%
Zea mays oilKey activeEffect: HighA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~0.45–1.1%
GalactoarabinanKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–1.1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.35–0.8%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–1.05%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.45–1%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.55–1.3%
Cera microcristallinaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from its surface and create a thicker product consistency~0.45–1.05%
Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.4–0.9%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–1.05%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~0.4–0.95%
Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–1%
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell cultureKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far~0.45–1%
C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~0.45–1%
Vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–1.05%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.45–1.05%
Copernicia cerifera ceraKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumBrazilian palm wax. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.55–1.25%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~0.45–1.05%
Dimethicone crosspolymerKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to create a thicker product texture. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might be able to prevent moisture loss from its surface~1.6–2.3%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~0.45–1.05%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.45–1.05%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.35–0.85%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.9%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.45–1%
Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency~0.45–1%
Olus oil· EmollientEffect: LowAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–1.05%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.45–1.05%
Peg-8· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency~0.4–0.9%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.45–1.05%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.35–0.85%
Avena sativa kernel extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~0.45–1%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.3–0.7%
Rosa canina fruit oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~0.45–1.05%
Camellia oleifera seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient that does not leave a greasy finish~0.45–1.05%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.45–1.05%
Hydrolyzed viola tricolor extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumMight have some moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties. Can be added to products to create a nice smell.~0.4–0.9%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.4–0.9%
Isononyl isononanoateEffect: Low, below effective doseForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~0.45–1%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.5–1.15%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.4–0.9%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 10 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (camellia oleifera leaf extract) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Camellia oleifera leaf extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation, even though it is not usually used in sufficient concentration in cosmetics~0.15–0.55%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.55–1.3%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.4–0.9%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.4–0.9%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.4–0.95%
Avena sativa kernel extractEffect: Low, below effective doseAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~0.45–1%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.45–1.05%
Rosa canina fruit oilEffect: Low, below effective doseA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~0.45–1.05%
Camellia oleifera seed oilEffect: Low, below effective doseAn emollient that does not leave a greasy finish~0.45–1.05%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.4–0.95%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · 8 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–1.05%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–1.05%
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell cultureEffect: LowHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far~0.45–1%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.4–0.9%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.4–0.9%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.45–1.05%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.4–0.95%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.4–0.9%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
10 strong irritants: Ethyl vanillin, Carica papaya fruit extract + 8 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 47 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Ethyl vanillinUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.55–1.35%est.
Carica papaya fruit extract—High~0.45–1.1%est.
Ci 15850A red colorantHigh~0.4–0.9%est.
Ci 75470Carmine. A colorant. Can be an allergenHigh~0.4–0.9%est.
Hydrolyzed viola tricolor extractMight have some moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties. Can be added to products to create a nice smell.High~0.4–0.9%est.
Rosa damascena extractOil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.High~0.4–0.9%est.
Michelia alba leaf oilAn essential oil used in cosmetics for its smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
Coco-glucosideUsed as a cleansing agent (surfactant) in cleansers. Helps water and oil mix together in lotions. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–1%est.
Plumeria rubra flower extractUsed to add a nice smell to the product. Can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.4–0.9%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.3–0.7%est.
Pistacia lentiscus gumA tree rasin that could temporarily tighten the skin and might help regulate sebum production, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lackingHigh~0.2–0.8%est.
Phenethyl alcoholA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.85–1.25%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.4–1%est.
Blue 1 lakeA colorantMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Ci 42090A colorant (dye)Medium~0.4–0.9%est.
HomosalateA weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.5–1.15%est.
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium~0.5–1.15%est.
OctocryleneA weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreenMedium~0.5–1.15%est.
Steareth-21Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–1.05%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.95%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.45–1%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Camellia oleifera seed oilAn emollient that does not leave a greasy finishMedium~0.45–1.05%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~0.45–1.05%est.
Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Peg-8Used to create a nice product consistencyMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.4–0.95%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell cultureHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so farMedium~0.45–1%est.
Acrylates copolymerUsed to stabilize product formulation, help create an even product layer over skin (for example, in sunscreen) and create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.5–1.15%est.
Ricinus communis seed oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~0.45–1%est.
GalactoarabinanHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.5–1.1%est.
Sodium dehydroacetateA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.4–0.95%est.
PvpHelps evenly disperse other ingredients in a formulation and create an even layer on the surface of the skinMedium~0.5–1.15%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.45–1.05%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.35–0.85%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
7 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
7 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Zea mays oilA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function3/5~0.45–1.1%est.
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.45–1.05%est.
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~0.45–1.05%est.
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.45–1.05%est.
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~0.4–0.95%est.
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~0.4–0.95%est.
Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~0.45–1%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate~22–33%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate
Trimethylolpropane triisostearate~6.1–9.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Trimethylolpropane triisostearate
Dimethicone~5.4–8.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Microcrystalline wax~4–6.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Microcrystalline wax
Cera microcristallina~3.3–5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from its surface and create a thicker product consistency

More about Cera microcristallina
Polyethylene~2.7–4.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken the product's texture

More about Polyethylene
Polybutene~1.9–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Polybutene
Dimethicone crosspolymer~1.6–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product texture. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might be able to prevent moisture loss from its surface

More about Dimethicone crosspolymer
Silica~1.6–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Mica~1.2–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica
Dicalcium phosphate~1.2–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Dicalcium phosphate
Ethyl vanillin~0.55–1.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Ethyl vanillin
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.85–1.25%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Tocopherol~0.55–1.25%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~0.55–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Zea mays oil~0.45–1.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function

More about Zea mays oil
Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.5–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to increase stability of product formulations

More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Carica papaya fruit extract~0.45–1.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Carica papaya fruit extract
Phalaenopsis amabilis extract~0.45–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Phalaenopsis amabilis extract
Bixa orellana seed extract~0.45–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Bixa orellana seed extract
Tocopheryl acetate~0.4–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Tin oxide~0.5–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant that can add a pearl-like appearance to the formulation

More about Tin oxide
Titanium dioxide~0.45–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Ci 77891~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77891
Iron oxides~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides
Ci 15850~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A red colorant

More about Ci 15850
Blue 1 lake~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant

More about Blue 1 lake
Ci 42090~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant (dye)

More about Ci 42090
Ci 75470~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Carmine. A colorant. Can be an allergen

More about Ci 75470
Cream~0.45–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cream
Water~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Homosalate~0.5–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Homosalate
Glyceryl stearate se~0.4–0.95%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Ethylhexyl salicylate~0.5–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Octisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Ethylhexyl salicylate
Butylene glycol~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Glycerin~0.4–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~0.5–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
Octocrylene~0.5–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

A weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Octocrylene
Cetyl alcohol~0.45–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
C12-15 alkyl benzoate~0.45–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Cyclopentasiloxane~0.45–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Dimethicone~0.45–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Phenoxyethanol~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.45–1.05%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Steareth-21~0.45–1.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-21
Avena sativa kernel extract~0.45–1%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingReduces rednessAnti-oxidation

An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties

More about Avena sativa kernel extract
Carbomer~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Dimethiconol~0.45–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol
Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Caprylyl glycol~0.45–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Xanthan gum~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Hydrolyzed viola tricolor extract~0.4–0.9%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Might have some moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties. Can be added to products to create a nice smell.

More about Hydrolyzed viola tricolor extract
Allantoin~0.35–0.85%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAntibacterialReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Disodium edta~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Tocopheryl acetate~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Camellia oleifera seed oil~0.45–1.05%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that does not leave a greasy finish

More about Camellia oleifera seed oil
Rosa canina fruit oil~0.45–1.05%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Rosa damascena extract~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Sodium hydroxide~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.45–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Michelia alba leaf oil~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil used in cosmetics for its smell. Can be irritating

More about Michelia alba leaf oil
Sodium lactate~0.4–0.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate
Coco-glucoside~0.45–1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Used as a cleansing agent (surfactant) in cleansers. Helps water and oil mix together in lotions. Can be irritating

More about Coco-glucoside
Peg-8~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium hyaluronate~0.4–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Tocopherol~0.4–0.9%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.45–1.05%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.45–1.05%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Plumeria rubra flower extract~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used to add a nice smell to the product. Can be irritating

More about Plumeria rubra flower extract
Ascorbic acid~0.4–0.9%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Citric acid~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture~0.45–1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

Has been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far

More about Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture
Linalool~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citronellol~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Cream~0.45–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cream
Water~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
C12-15 alkyl benzoate~0.45–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Glyceryl stearate se~0.4–0.95%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Butylene glycol~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Glycerin~0.4–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Olus oil~0.45–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Olus oil
Vegetable oil~0.45–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Vegetable oil
Isononyl isononanoate~0.45–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate
Cetyl alcohol~0.45–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Ethylhexyl palmitate~0.45–1.05%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Cyclopentasiloxane~0.45–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Dimethicone~0.45–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Polyester-7~0.5–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Polyester-7
Phenoxyethanol~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate~0.45–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency

More about Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.45–1.05%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Steareth-21~0.45–1.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-21
Avena sativa kernel extract~0.45–1%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingReduces rednessAnti-oxidation

An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties

More about Avena sativa kernel extract
Carbomer~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Dimethiconol~0.45–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol
Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Caprylyl glycol~0.45–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Xanthan gum~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Hydrolyzed viola tricolor extract~0.4–0.9%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Might have some moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties. Can be added to products to create a nice smell.

More about Hydrolyzed viola tricolor extract
Allantoin~0.35–0.85%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Disodium edta~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Tocopheryl acetate~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Camellia oleifera seed oil~0.45–1.05%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that does not leave a greasy finish

More about Camellia oleifera seed oil
Rosa canina fruit oil~0.45–1.05%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Rosa damascena extract~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Sodium hydroxide~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.45–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Michelia alba leaf oil~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil used in cosmetics for its smell. Can be irritating

More about Michelia alba leaf oil
Sodium lactate~0.4–0.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate
Coco-glucoside~0.45–1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Used as a cleansing agent (surfactant) in cleansers. Helps water and oil mix together in lotions. Can be irritating

More about Coco-glucoside
Peg-8~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium hyaluronate~0.4–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Tocopherol~0.4–0.9%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.45–1.05%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.45–1.05%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Plumeria rubra flower extract~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used to add a nice smell to the product. Can be irritating

More about Plumeria rubra flower extract
Ascorbic acid~0.4–0.9%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Citric acid~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture~0.45–1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

Has been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far

More about Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture
Linalool~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citronellol~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Lac~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps form a film on the surface of the skin and disperse other ingredients (like colorants) in cosmetics. Lac is a resinous substance secreted by parasite insects living on trees

More about Lac
Water~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Cera microcristallina~0.45–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from its surface and create a thicker product consistency

More about Cera microcristallina
Microcrystalline wax~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Microcrystalline wax
Cera microcristallina~0.45–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from its surface and create a thicker product consistency

More about Cera microcristallina
Copernicia cerifera cera~0.55–1.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Brazilian palm wax. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Copernicia cerifera cera
Copernicia cerifera wax~0.5–1.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency

More about Copernicia cerifera wax
Glyceryl stearate~0.45–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Acrylates copolymer~0.5–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to stabilize product formulation, help create an even product layer over skin (for example, in sunscreen) and create a thicker product consistency

More about Acrylates copolymer
Stearic acid~0.5–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Hydrogenated vegetable oil~0.45–1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil
Palmitic acid~0.45–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Butylene glycol~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Ricinus communis seed oil~0.45–1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Ricinus communis seed oil
Stearyl stearate~0.45–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Stearyl stearate
Aminomethyl propanol~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the pH in formulations

More about Aminomethyl propanol
Caprylyl glycol~0.45–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Phenoxyethanol~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Galactoarabinan~0.5–1.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Galactoarabinan
Sodium dehydroacetate~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium dehydroacetate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin
Laureth-21~0.45–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Laureth-21
Bht~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Iron oxides~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides
Ci 77499~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

An iron oxide. Used as a colorant. Is usually well tolerated

More about Ci 77499
Ultramarines~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ultramarines
Ci 77007~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A blue pigment

More about Ci 77007
Tin~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Tin
Water~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Amp-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer~0.5–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Amp-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer
Pvp~0.5–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps evenly disperse other ingredients in a formulation and create an even layer on the surface of the skin

More about Pvp
Phenoxyethanol~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Pentylene glycol~0.45–1.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Propanediol~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Polysorbate 20~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Citric acid~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder
Parfum~0.3–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Potassium sorbate~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Glycerin~0.35–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Camellia oleifera leaf extract~0.15–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation, even though it is not usually used in sufficient concentration in cosmetics

More about Camellia oleifera leaf extract
Pistacia lentiscus gum~0.2–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemish

A tree rasin that could temporarily tighten the skin and might help regulate sebum production, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Pistacia lentiscus gum
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.1–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Phenethyl alcohol~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Phenethyl alcohol
Ingredient list view

Neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, Trimethylolpropane triisostearate, Dimethicone, Microcrystalline wax, Cera microcristallina, Polyethylene, Polybutene, Dimethicone crosspolymer, Silica, Mica, Dicalcium phosphate, Ethyl vanillin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Tocopherol, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Zea mays oil, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Carica papaya fruit extract, Phalaenopsis amabilis extract, Bixa orellana seed extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Tin oxide, Titanium dioxide, Ci 77891, Iron oxides, Ci 15850, Blue 1 lake, Ci 42090, Ci 75470, Cream, Water, Homosalate, Glyceryl stearate se, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Butylene glycol, Glycerin, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Cetyl alcohol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Steareth-21, Avena sativa kernel extract, Carbomer, Dimethiconol, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl glycol, Xanthan gum, Hydrolyzed viola tricolor extract, Allantoin, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Disodium edta, Tocopheryl acetate, Camellia oleifera seed oil, Rosa canina fruit oil, Rosa damascena extract, Sodium hydroxide, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Michelia alba leaf oil, Sodium lactate, Coco-glucoside, Peg-8, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Ascorbyl palmitate, Plumeria rubra flower extract, Ascorbic acid, Citric acid, Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Cream, Water, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Glyceryl stearate se, Butylene glycol, Glycerin, Olus oil, Vegetable oil, Isononyl isononanoate, Cetyl alcohol, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Polyester-7, Phenoxyethanol, Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Steareth-21, Avena sativa kernel extract, Carbomer, Dimethiconol, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl glycol, Xanthan gum, Hydrolyzed viola tricolor extract, Allantoin, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Disodium edta, Tocopheryl acetate, Camellia oleifera seed oil, Rosa canina fruit oil, Rosa damascena extract, Sodium hydroxide, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Michelia alba leaf oil, Sodium lactate, Coco-glucoside, Peg-8, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Ascorbyl palmitate, Plumeria rubra flower extract, Ascorbic acid, Citric acid, Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Lac, Water, Cera microcristallina, Microcrystalline wax, Cera microcristallina, Copernicia cerifera cera, Copernicia cerifera wax, Glyceryl stearate, Acrylates copolymer, Stearic acid, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Palmitic acid, Butylene glycol, Ricinus communis seed oil, Stearyl stearate, Aminomethyl propanol, Caprylyl glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Galactoarabinan, Sodium dehydroacetate, Tocopheryl acetate, Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, Laureth-21, Bht, Iron oxides, Ci 77499, Ultramarines, Ci 77007, Tin, Water, Amp-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer, Pvp, Phenoxyethanol, Pentylene glycol, Propanediol, Polysorbate 20, Citric acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, Parfum, Potassium sorbate, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Camellia oleifera leaf extract, Pistacia lentiscus gum, Hydrogenated lecithin, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Phenethyl alcohol

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Charlotte Tilbury - Pillow Talk Dreams Come True" works well for improving skin hydration This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (galactoarabinan, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, sodium lactate and butylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, carthamus tinctorius seed oil, cera microcristallina and copernicia cerifera wax in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.40% - 0.90%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.45% - 1.05%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.45% - 1.05%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.45% - 1.05% and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.45% - 1.05%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: caprylic/capric triglyceride, vitamin c, vitamin e, rosehip oil, camellia oleifera seed oil, allantoin, oatmeal extract, vitamin c, vitamin e, rosehip oil, camellia oleifera seed oil, allantoin, oatmeal extract, titanium dioxide and vitamin e

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Charlotte Tilbury" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Price

The product retails for 380.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 28 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  2. 2
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  3. 3
    Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
  6. 6
    Content of fatty acids in corn (Zea mays L.) oil from Ecuadorresearchgate.net
Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk Dreams Come True
Charlotte TilburyPillow Talk Dreams Come True
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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.