What's In My Jar
Chantecaille LUXE ESSENTIALS PLUS: SMOOTH
Chantecaille

Chantecaille LUXE ESSENTIALS PLUS: SMOOTH

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 + 32 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Decadent and nourishing, Bio Lifting Cream+ is a rich cream that offers a cocktail of five extraordinary plant stem cells—Bionymph, Plantago, Caffeine-Free Coffee, Daphne, and Raspberry—to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and visibly lift and plump.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: biosaccharide gum-1, glutamic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, butyrospermum parkii butter extract.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.5–0.75%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.5–0.75%
Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.65%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~5.1–6.3%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.2–5.2%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~3.1–3.8%
Imperata cylindrica root extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~1.8–2.2%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.5–1.9%
Butyrospermum parkii butter extractKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.7–1.05%
Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.6–0.9%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.55–0.85%
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell cultureKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far~0.5–0.75%
Chondrus crispus powderKey activeEffect: MediumA powder from red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~0.5–0.75%
Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.6%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.6%
Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.4–0.6%
Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetateKey activeEffect: HighA peptide. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support skin's barrier function and might have some slight anti-aging effect through stimulating skin's own production of hyaluronic acid~0.4–0.6%
ThreonineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–0.6%
Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.4–0.6%
Glutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.6%
GlycoproteinsKey activeEffect: High~0.4–0.6%
Brassica campestris seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.6%
Plankton extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.6%
Rosa damascena flower water· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~28–35%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1–1.3%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.5–0.75%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.45–0.7%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.4–0.6%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.4–0.6%
BiotinEffect: LowMight have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect~0.2–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.6–0.9%
Rosa canina fruit oilUnder-dosedA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~0.55–0.8%
Argania spinosa kernel oilUnder-dosedAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~0.45–0.7%
Anti-aging
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 + 7 more
May help
What the product description says
“Decadent and nourishing, Bio Lifting Cream+ is a rich cream that offers a cocktail of five extraordinary plant stem cells—Bionymph, Plantago, Caffeine-Free Coffee, Daphne, and Raspberry—to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and visibly lift and plump.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product contains acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate, threonine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.5–0.75%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.5–0.75%
Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetateKey activeEffect: MediumA peptide. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support skin's barrier function and might have some slight anti-aging effect through stimulating skin's own production of hyaluronic acid~0.4–0.6%
ThreonineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–0.6%
Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.65%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.5–1.9%
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell cultureEffect: LowHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far~0.5–0.75%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.4–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Imperata cylindrica root extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract + 11 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (camellia sinensis leaf extract, imperata cylindrica root extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Imperata cylindrica root extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~1.8–2.2%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.4–0.6%
Rosa damascena flower waterEffect: LowUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~28–35%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.5–1.9%
Plantago lanceolata leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties~0.8–1.2%
Borago officinalis seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.6–0.9%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.55–0.85%
Rosa canina fruit oilEffect: Low, below effective doseA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~0.55–0.8%
BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.45–0.7%
Argania spinosa kernel oilEffect: Low, below effective doseAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~0.45–0.7%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.4–0.6%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.35–0.6%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
9 strong irritants: Rosa damascena flower water, Alcohol + 7 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 32 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~28–35%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.4–0.6%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.6%est.
Coco-glucosideUsed as a cleansing agent (surfactant) in cleansers. Helps water and oil mix together in lotions. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
Michelia alba leaf oilAn essential oil used in cosmetics for its smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.6%est.
Daphne odora callus extract—High~0.35–0.65%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
C12-20 acid peg-8 esterHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~3.7–4.5%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~4.2–5.2%est.
Imperata cylindrica root extractA plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layerMedium~1.8–2.2%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.6–1.9%est.
Plantago lanceolata leaf extractA plant extract that might have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.8–1.2%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.6–0.9%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Argania spinosa kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.4–0.6%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell cultureHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so farMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Sodium metabisulfiteA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
4 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.5–1.9%est.
Butyrospermum parkii butter extractA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.7–1.05%est.
Chondrus crispus powderA powder from red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency3/5~0.5–0.75%est.
Plankton extractCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.4–0.6%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Rosa damascena flower water~28–35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower water
Glycerin~5.1–6.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
C12-20 acid peg-8 ester~3.7–4.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about C12-20 acid peg-8 ester
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~4.2–5.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Coco-caprylate/caprate~3.1–3.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Water~2.2–2.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Imperata cylindrica root extract~1.8–2.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer

More about Imperata cylindrica root extract
Potassium cetyl phosphate~1.6–1.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.5–1.9%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Butylene glycol~1–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Plantago lanceolata leaf extract~0.8–1.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties

More about Plantago lanceolata leaf extract
Carbomer~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Butyrospermum parkii butter extract~0.7–1.05%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter extract
Hydrolyzed soy protein~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing

More about Hydrolyzed soy protein
Bisabolol~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Borago officinalis seed oil~0.6–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.6–0.9%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Rosa canina fruit oil~0.55–0.8%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Disodium edta~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Sodium hydroxide~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Argania spinosa kernel oil~0.45–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties

More about Argania spinosa kernel oil
Tocopheryl acetate~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Chondrus crispus powder~0.5–0.75%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A powder from red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency

More about Chondrus crispus powder
Saccharide isomerate~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate
Caprylyl glycol~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Spent grain wax~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Spent grain wax
Brassica campestris seed oil~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Brassica campestris seed oil
Alcohol~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Sodium hyaluronate~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Sodium lactate~0.4–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate
Coco-glucoside~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Used as a cleansing agent (surfactant) in cleansers. Helps water and oil mix together in lotions. Can be irritating

More about Coco-glucoside
Glycoproteins~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Glycoproteins
Acacia dealbata flower wax~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Acacia dealbata flower wax
Jasminum grandiflorum flower wax~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Jasminum grandiflorum flower wax
Narcissus poeticus flower wax~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Narcissus poeticus flower wax
Citric acid~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sodium citrate~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Glutamic acid~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutamic acid
Michelia alba leaf oil~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil used in cosmetics for its smell. Can be irritating

More about Michelia alba leaf oil
Pentylene glycol~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Psilanthus bengalensis leaf cell culture extract~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Psilanthus bengalensis leaf cell culture extract
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Xanthan gum~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Biosaccharide gum-1~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1
Threonine~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Threonine
Valine~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Valine
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.5–0.75%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.5–0.75%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.35–0.65%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8
Rubus idaeus leaf cell culture~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Rubus idaeus leaf cell culture
3-aminopropane sulfonic acid~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about 3-aminopropane sulfonic acid
Calcium hydroxymethionine~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Calcium hydroxymethionine
Daphne odora callus extract~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Daphne odora callus extract
Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose
Pollen extract~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Pollen extract
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture~0.5–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

Has been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far

More about Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture
Plankton extract~0.4–0.6%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Plankton extract
Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A peptide. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support skin's barrier function and might have some slight anti-aging effect through stimulating skin's own production of hyaluronic acid

More about Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Tocopherol~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Sorbic acid~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid
Sodium metabisulfite~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium metabisulfite
Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Magnesium chloride~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps thicken the product formulation

More about Magnesium chloride
Biotin~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect

More about Biotin
Citronellol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Linalool~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Ingredient list view

Rosa damascena flower water, Glycerin, C12-20 acid peg-8 ester, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Water, Imperata cylindrica root extract, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Butylene glycol, Plantago lanceolata leaf extract, Carbomer, Butyrospermum parkii butter extract, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Bisabolol, Borago officinalis seed oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Rosa canina fruit oil, Disodium edta, Sodium hydroxide, Argania spinosa kernel oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Chondrus crispus powder, Saccharide isomerate, Caprylyl glycol, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Spent grain wax, Brassica campestris seed oil, Alcohol, Rosa damascena flower oil, Sodium hyaluronate, Sodium lactate, Coco-glucoside, Glycoproteins, Acacia dealbata flower wax, Jasminum grandiflorum flower wax, Narcissus poeticus flower wax, Citric acid, Sodium citrate, Glutamic acid, Michelia alba leaf oil, Pentylene glycol, Psilanthus bengalensis leaf cell culture extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Xanthan gum, Biosaccharide gum-1, Threonine, Valine, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Rubus idaeus leaf cell culture, 3-aminopropane sulfonic acid, Calcium hydroxymethionine, Daphne odora callus extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Pollen extract, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture, Plankton extract, Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Sorbic acid, Sodium metabisulfite, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Magnesium chloride, Biotin, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ChantecailleLUXE ESSENTIALS PLUS: SMOOTHYOUR PRODUCTPeter Thomas RothFace Care Wrinkle Resist Eye CreamkineffDermacycle 102 Night Renewal CreamEveline CosmeticsBio Hyaluron Expert
Match—56%55%55%
Price——$12.99—
Shared key ingredients—8 of 2410 of 248 of 24
Key difference—Tripeptide-1Copper Tripeptide-1Bakuchiol
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Product summary

"Chantecaille - LUXE ESSENTIALS PLUS: SMOOTH" is effective for: Moisturizing

This product could be helpful for: Anti-aging, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • Peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.35% - 0.65%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.50% - 0.75% and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.50% - 0.75%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. They might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
  • Humectants (acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.35% - 0.65%, biosaccharide gum-1 0.40% - 0.60%, glutamic acid 0.40% - 0.60%, sodium lactate 0.40% - 0.60%, sodium hyaluronate 0.40% - 0.60%, saccharide isomerate 0.40% - 0.60%, imperata cylindrica root extract 1.80% - 2.20% and glycerin 5.10% - 6.30%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Chantecaille" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Price

The product retails for 359.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 22 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts ec.europa.eu
  2. 2
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  4. 4
    Allergic contact dermatitis from grassespubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Extracts from Glycine max (soybean) induce elastin synthesis and inhibit elastase activityonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  6. 6
    Dermatological and cosmeceutical benefits of Glycine max (soybean) and its active componentsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Chantecaille LUXE ESSENTIALS PLUS: SMOOTH
ChantecailleLUXE ESSENTIALS PLUS: SMOOTH
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