Biovene

RETINOL NIGHT LOTION extra-firming body cream treatment

Name: Biovene - RETINOL NIGHT LOTION extra-firming body cream treatment
Brand: Biovene

Efficacy 100/100·High irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

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Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing

6 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

NIACINAMIDERole: Key activeIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.5–1.1%

HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OILRole: Key activeA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.4–0.95%

BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTERRole: Key activeA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.1–3.1%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.75%

CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACTRole: Key activeCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.85–1.25%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4–6%

Evens skin tone

4 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

In addition, this product contains niacinamide. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: retinyl palmitate.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RETINOLRole: HeroTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1.2–1.8%

RETINYL PALMITATERole: Key activeThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~1–1.45%

Anti-aging

6 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: retinyl palmitate.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.75%

Anti-oxidation

RETINOL at ~1.2–1.8% delivers this without it being on the label

Quiet bonus

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - camellia sinensis leaf extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.75%

Exfoliation

RETINOL at ~1.2–1.8% delivers this without it being on the label

Quiet bonus

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4–6%

Cetearyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3.1–4.7%

Butyrospermum parkii butterRole: Key activeA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.1–3.1%

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilRole: Key activeAn emollient that softens the skin~1.7–2.5%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractRole: Key activeCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.85–1.25%

NiacinamideRole: Key activeIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.5–1.1%

Helianthus annuus seed oilRole: Key activeA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.4–0.95%

Cetyl palmitateRole: Key activeAn emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability~0.2–0.75%

Irritancy

12 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 12 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~1.2–1.8%est.

Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~1–1.45%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.2%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

Rubus idaeus leaf extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lackingLow~1.4–2%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Low~0.35–0.8%est.

Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesLow~0.35–0.8%est.

Ceteareth-12Helps water and oil mix togetherLow~0.2–0.75%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.1–0.4%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeLow~0.05–0.3%est.

BhtA preservativeLow~0.05–0.25%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients can clog pores in acne-prone skin

High risk

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicalsHigh~2.1–3.1%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product textureMed~3.1–4.7%est.

Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMed~0.35–0.8%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels