BIOTHERM

BIOTHERM Aquapower SPF14 Moisturizing & Protective Gel

Name: BIOTHERM - Aquapower SPF14 Moisturizing & Protective Gel
Brand: BIOTHERM

SPF 14Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh·4 UV filters

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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Sun protection

SPF 14 · 4 UV filters · Broad spectrum

No real protectionSPF too low

SPF 14Broad spectrumChemical filters

This product does not offer sun protection, or it is very low.

This product can be considered "reef safe" because it does not contain the UV filters (oxybenzone and octinoxate) that can be harmful to coral reefs when present in the water in high concentrations.

UV spectrum

UVB290–320 nmUVA II320–340 nmUVA I340–400 nm

Octocrylene

Octisalate

Titanium Dioxide

Avobenzone

FilterCoverageWhat it doesEst. amount

OctocryleneUVB Photo-stable A weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen~3.6–4.4%

OctisalateEthylhexyl SalicylateUVBOctisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen~2.5–3.1%

Titanium Dioxide Mineral UVBUVA2 Photo-stable Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin~0.35–0.6%

AvobenzoneButyl MethoxydibenzoylmethaneUVA1Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.~1.1–1.4%

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Reef-safe

No oxybenzone or octinoxate — the two filters banned in Hawaii, Florida Keys and Aruba.

Moisturizing

14 ingredients credited for this claim

Good support

What the product description says

“Aquapower SPF14 Moisturizing & Protective Gel”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, thermus thermophillus ferment.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, dimethiconol.

Thermus thermophillus fermentKey active· HumectantEffect: HighMight be helpful in neutralising free radicals in skin and have some hydration properties~0.25–0.4%

Alteromonas ferment extractKey activeEffect: HighA marine extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory properties but research is lacking~0.3–0.55%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2.4–2.9%

DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.4–0.65%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.7–5.8%

PolymethylsilsesquioxaneKey activeEffect: HighA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~0.25–0.5%

Peg-12 dimethiconeKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~0.4–0.65%

Diisopropyl sebacateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin without creatng a greasy finish~4.1–5.1%

Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~1.7–2.1%

Magnesium gluconateEffect: LowA mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking~0.25–0.45%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Scutellaria baicalensis root extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties~0.45–0.65%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–0.75%

Exfoliation

Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: capryloyl salicylic acid.

Capryloyl salicylic acidKey activeEffect: High~0.25–0.45%

Maris salEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration~0.25–0.45%

Sea saltEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration~0.25–0.45%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · 1 ingredient credited for this claim

Moderate support

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: capryloyl salicylic acid.

Capryloyl salicylic acidKey activeEffect: Medium~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

11 strong irritants: Alcohol denat., Menthoxypropanediol + 9 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 28 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~1.2–1.4%est.

Scutellaria baicalensis root extractA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant propertiesHigh~0.45–0.65%est.

Capryloyl salicylic acid—High~0.25–0.45%est.

MenthoxypropanediolUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

CoumarinA fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

HydroxycitronellalA fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

OctocryleneA weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreenMedium~3.6–4.4%est.

Aluminum starch octenylsuccinateUsed to thicken the product's consistencyMedium~1.4–1.7%est.

Sucrose tristearateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.95–1.15%est.

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium~1.1–1.4%est.

Polysorbate 61Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.6–0.85%est.

TriethanolamineUsed to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smellMedium~0.4–0.65%est.

Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Maris salUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Sea saltUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Thermus thermophillus fermentMight be helpful in neutralising free radicals in skin and have some hydration propertiesMedium~0.25–0.4%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Ci 42090A colorant (dye)Medium~0.25–0.45%est.

Comedogenic

Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients

None flagged

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Cheaper Alternatives

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Vichy Slow Âge Day Cream

59% match

$30.00

La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo+ SPF 30

55% match

$20.09

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.7–5.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Diisopropyl sebacate~4.1–5.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin without creatng a greasy finish

More about Diisopropyl sebacate

Octocrylene~3.6–4.4%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

A weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Octocrylene

Dimethicone~2.4–2.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Ethylhexyl salicylate~2.5–3.1%

UV filter

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Octisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Ethylhexyl salicylate

Isohexadecane~1.7–2.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane

Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate~1.4–1.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to thicken the product's consistency

More about Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate

Alcohol denat.~1.2–1.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.

Sucrose tristearate~0.95–1.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sucrose tristearate

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~1.1–1.4%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

Polysorbate 61~0.6–0.85%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 61

Tocopherol~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Scutellaria baicalensis root extract~0.45–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

AntibacterialAnti-oxidationMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties

More about Scutellaria baicalensis root extract

Peg-12 dimethicone~0.4–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Peg-12 dimethicone

Carbomer~0.4–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Triethanolamine~0.4–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Used to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smell

More about Triethanolamine

Dimethiconol~0.4–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol

Alteromonas ferment extract~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A marine extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory properties but research is lacking

More about Alteromonas ferment extract

Sodium carrageenan~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Sodium carrageenan

Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate

Maris sal~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Maris sal

Sea salt~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Exfoliation

More about Sea salt

Magnesium gluconate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking

More about Magnesium gluconate

Disodium edta~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Thermus thermophillus ferment~0.25–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralising free radicals in skin and have some hydration properties

More about Thermus thermophillus ferment

Capryloyl salicylic acid~0.25–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

ExfoliationAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

More about Capryloyl salicylic acid

Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Vitreoscilla ferment~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Vitreoscilla ferment

Xanthan gum~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Menthoxypropanediol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Menthoxypropanediol

Polymethylsilsesquioxane~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss

More about Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Butylene glycol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Potassium sorbate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Ci 77891~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ci 77891

Titanium dioxide~0.35–0.6%

UV filterUnder-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Ci 42090~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A colorant (dye)

More about Ci 42090

Ci 60730~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ci 60730

Ext. violet 2

Not recognized

Linalool~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Geraniol~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Coumarin~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritating

More about Coumarin

Limonene~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Hydroxycitronellal~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritating

More about Hydroxycitronellal

Citral~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral

Citronellol~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Benzyl alcohol~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol

Benzyl salicylate~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate

Parfum~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Diisopropyl sebacate, Octocrylene, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Isohexadecane, Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, Alcohol denat., Sucrose tristearate, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Polysorbate 61, Tocopherol, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Peg-12 dimethicone, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Dimethiconol, Alteromonas ferment extract, Sodium carrageenan, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Maris sal, Sea salt, Magnesium gluconate, Disodium edta, Thermus thermophillus ferment, Capryloyl salicylic acid, Caprylyl glycol, Vitreoscilla ferment, Xanthan gum, Menthoxypropanediol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Butylene glycol, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Ci 77891, Titanium dioxide, Ci 42090, Ci 60730, Unknown, Linalool, Geraniol, Coumarin, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal, Citral, Citronellol, Benzyl alcohol, Benzyl salicylate, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	BIOTHERMAquapower SPF14 Moisturizing & Protective GelYOUR PRODUCT	VichySlow Âge Day Cream	LancômeRénergie Multi-Lift Ultra SPF20 Cream	La Roche-PosayEffaclar Duo+ SPF 30
Match	—	59%	55%	55%
Price	$40.40	$30.00−$10.40	$92.54+$52.14	$20.09−$20.31
Shared key ingredients	—	8 of 11	7 of 11	5 of 11
Key difference	—	Ascorbyl Glucoside	Adenosine	Salicylic Acid
Irritancy	High	Medium	High	Medium
SPF	SPF 14	SPF 30	SPF 20	SPF 30
Drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"Biotherm Homme - Aquapower SPF14 Moisturizing & Protective Gel" offers broad spectrum protection. It means that it protects from both UVA and UVB rays (you can remember UVB as "burning" sunlight - they cause sunburn. You can remember UVA rays as "aging" - they do not lead to sunburn, but they cause photodamage and contribute to early signs of skin aging and hyperpigmentation). On the negative side, the SPF of this moisturizer is not high enough. We recommend to use a sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily.

This moisturizer should also be hydrating enough to use without an additional moisturizer during the day.

Sunscreen filters

This sunscreen uses so-called "chemical", or organic UV filters (organic simply means that their molecules contain atoms of carbon). These filters typically give good sun protection and rarely leave a white cast, but they can be irritating for sensitive skin. These are the sun protection ingredients in this sunscreen: avobenzone 1.10% - 1.40%, octisalate 2.50% - 3.10% and octocrylene 3.60% - 4.40%.

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.