BIOTHERM

BIOTHERM AQUAPOWER GEL MOISTURIZER

Name: BIOTHERM - AQUAPOWER GEL MOISTURIZER
Brand: BIOTHERM

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing

Panthenol, Urea + 24 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Advanced 48h face moisturizing gel for men, for re-energized skin and fortified barrier function.”

Source: Biotherm

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, aspartic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, dimethiconol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol, urea

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.45–0.65%

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.25–0.45%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.1–5%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2.4–2.9%

IsododecaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture~1.9–2.3%

DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.4–0.6%

FructoseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.65%

GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.35–0.6%

Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.3–0.55%

2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediolKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time~0.25–0.4%

Oryza sativa bran oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.5%

Passiflora edulis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient helping to soften the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Adds a fragrance to the product~0.25–0.5%

Zea mays oilKey activeEffect: HighA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

Magnesium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.4%

SucroseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~0.2–0.35%

Zinc pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.2–0.4%

Copper pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

Aspartic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

Glutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%

Manganese gluconateKey activeEffect: HighMight be able to help restore skin barrier function supporting its hydration~0.15–0.3%

AlanineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.1–0.2%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3–3.7%

Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency while softening the upper layer of the skin~1.6–1.9%

Dextrin· HumectantEffect: LowA sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.4%

Prunus armeniaca kernel oilUnder-dosedAn emollient that helps soften the skin~0.3–0.55%

Anti-aging

Side benefit · Aspartic acid, Zinc pca + 3 more

May help

This product contains aspartic acid. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Aspartic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

Zinc pcaEffect: LowA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.2–0.4%

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.15–0.25%

Ascorbyl glucosideUnder-dosedA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

11 strong irritants: Alcohol denat., Menthoxypropanediol + 9 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 21 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~7.4–9.1%est.

Passiflora edulis seed oilA good emollient helping to soften the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Adds a fragrance to the productHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

MenthoxypropanediolUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

HydroxycitronellalA fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

CoumarinA fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Hexyl nicotinateMight be able to enhance blood flow in the skin. Can be irritating and result in skin rednessHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~1–1.3%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.9–1.1%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.6–0.9%est.

TriethanolamineUsed to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smellMedium~0.5–0.75%est.

BhtA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Prunus armeniaca kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.15–0.25%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Zea mays oilA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function3/5~0.25–0.45%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Alcohol denat.~7.4–9.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.

Glycerin~4.1–5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Butylene glycol~3–3.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Dimethicone~2.4–2.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Isododecane~1.9–2.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture

More about Isododecane

Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate~1.6–1.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate

Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Hexylene glycol~1–1.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.9–1.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Tocopheryl acetate~0.6–0.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Triethanolamine~0.5–0.75%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Used to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smell

More about Triethanolamine

Panthenol~0.45–0.65%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Fructose~0.35–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Fructose

Bht~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Bht

Glucose~0.35–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose

Dimethiconol~0.4–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol

Biosaccharide gum-1~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1

Zea mays oil~0.25–0.45%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function

More about Zea mays oil

Prunus armeniaca kernel oil~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Prunus armeniaca kernel oil

Ascorbyl glucoside~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside

Vitreoscilla ferment~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Vitreoscilla ferment

Passiflora edulis seed oil~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient helping to soften the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Adds a fragrance to the product

More about Passiflora edulis seed oil

Menthoxypropanediol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Menthoxypropanediol

Oryza sativa bran oil~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Oryza sativa bran oil

Linalool~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Limonene~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Urea~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea

Magnesium pca~0.25–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Magnesium pca

Potassium pca~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Potassium pca

Zinc pca~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing

More about Zinc pca

2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol~0.25–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time

More about 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol

Hydroxycitronellal~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritating

More about Hydroxycitronellal

Benzyl salicylate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate

Dextrin~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Dextrin

Citronellol~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Coumarin~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritating

More about Coumarin

Benzyl alcohol~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol

Citral~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral

Copper pca~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Copper pca

Tocopherol~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Hexyl nicotinate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

De-puffing

Might be able to enhance blood flow in the skin. Can be irritating and result in skin redness

More about Hexyl nicotinate

Sucrose~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion

More about Sucrose

Glutamic acid~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutamic acid

Manganese gluconate~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Might be able to help restore skin barrier function supporting its hydration

More about Manganese gluconate

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Aspartic acid~0.15–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles

More about Aspartic acid

Alanine~0.1–0.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking

More about Alanine

Parfum~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Ingredient list view

Water, Alcohol denat., Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Dimethicone, Isododecane, Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, Phenoxyethanol, Hexylene glycol, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Tocopheryl acetate, Triethanolamine, Panthenol, Fructose, Bht, Glucose, Dimethiconol, Biosaccharide gum-1, Zea mays oil, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Ascorbyl glucoside, Vitreoscilla ferment, Passiflora edulis seed oil, Menthoxypropanediol, Oryza sativa bran oil, Linalool, Limonene, Urea, Magnesium pca, Potassium pca, Zinc pca, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, Hydroxycitronellal, Benzyl salicylate, Dextrin, Citronellol, Coumarin, Benzyl alcohol, Citral, Copper pca, Tocopherol, Hexyl nicotinate, Sucrose, Glutamic acid, Manganese gluconate, Ascorbyl palmitate, Aspartic acid, Alanine, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	BIOTHERMAQUAPOWER GEL MOISTURIZERYOUR PRODUCT	BIOAQUAPOWER GEL MOISTURIZER	CetaphilDeep Hydration Hydrating Water Gel	Dr. Barbara SturmClarifying Face Cream
Match	—	73%	55%	54%
Price	$12.22	$55.00+$42.78	$17.99+$5.77	$178.58+$166.36
Shared key ingredients	—	23 of 23	4 of 23	8 of 23
Key difference	—	—	Niacinamide	Niacinamide
Irritancy	High	High	Low	Medium
Drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	—	Contains drying alcohol
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "BIOTHERM HOMME - AQUAPOWER GEL MOISTURIZER" can work well for skin moisturization. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. BIOTHERM HOMME - AQUAPOWER GEL MOISTURIZER ticks this box. Humectants in this product (panthenol, urea, alanine, aspartic acid and biosaccharide gum-1) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Oryza sativa bran oil, passiflora edulis seed oil, dimethicone, dimethiconol and isododecane in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e and apricot kernel oil

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.