BIOTHERM

BIOTHERM AQUAPOWER GEL ADVANCED MOISTURIZER

Name: BIOTHERM - AQUAPOWER GEL ADVANCED MOISTURIZER
Brand: BIOTHERM

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing

22 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“AQUAPOWER GEL ADVANCED MOISTURIZER”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, aspartic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: urea

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.1–2.5%

CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.4–0.65%

Prunus armeniaca kernel oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin~1.5–1.8%

SucroseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~0.2–0.35%

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.65–0.95%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.1–3.8%

AlanineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.3–0.5%

Aspartic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.5–0.75%

Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.2–0.35%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~5.6–6.9%

FructoseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.6%

Glutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediolKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time~0.3–0.6%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~1.2–1.4%

Manganese gluconateKey activeEffect: HighMight be able to help restore skin barrier function supporting its hydration~0.3–0.6%

GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.45–0.65%

Dextrin· HumectantEffect: LowA sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

Magnesium gluconateEffect: LowA mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking~0.25–0.45%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2.4–2.9%

PanthenolUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%

Copper gluconateUnder-dosedEffect: HighTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing~0.2–0.4%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · 5 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

This product contains aspartic acid. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Aspartic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.5–0.75%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.1–2.5%

Ascorbyl glucosideUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.25–0.45%

Copper gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

11 strong irritants: Alcohol denat., Menthoxypropanediol + 9 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 22 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~4.4–5.3%est.

MenthoxypropanediolUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Hexyl nicotinateMight be able to enhance blood flow in the skin. Can be irritating and result in skin rednessHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Ci 19140A yellow dyeHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

CoumarinA fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

HydroxycitronellalA fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

Prunus armeniaca kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~1.5–1.8%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~1.2–1.4%est.

Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Copper gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missingMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinateUsed to improve stability of the formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.2–0.35%est.

Ci 42090A colorant (dye)Medium~0.2–0.35%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

3 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~2.1–2.5%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~1.2–1.4%est.

Triticum vulgare seed extract—2/5~0.8–1.2%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Dimethicone~5.6–6.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Alcohol denat.~4.4–5.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.

Glycerin~3.1–3.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Butylene glycol~2.4–2.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Butyrospermum parkii butter~2.1–2.5%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate~1.7–2.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate

Prunus armeniaca kernel oil~1.5–1.8%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Prunus armeniaca kernel oil

Glycine soja oil~1.2–1.4%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Triticum vulgare seed extract~0.8–1.2%

Comedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

More about Triticum vulgare seed extract

Urea~0.65–0.95%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea

Aspartic acid~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles

More about Aspartic acid

Glucose~0.45–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose

Fructose~0.4–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Fructose

Manganese gluconate~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Might be able to help restore skin barrier function supporting its hydration

More about Manganese gluconate

2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time

More about 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol

Cholesterol~0.4–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol

Alanine~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking

More about Alanine

Magnesium gluconate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking

More about Magnesium gluconate

Ascorbyl glucoside~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside

Copper gluconate~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingExfoliationAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing

More about Copper gluconate

Sucrose~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion

More about Sucrose

Vitreoscilla ferment~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Vitreoscilla ferment

Citric acid~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to improve stability of the formulation

More about Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate

Biosaccharide gum-1~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1

Maltodextrin~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin

Panthenol~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Menthoxypropanediol~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Menthoxypropanediol

Glutamic acid~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutamic acid

Dextrin~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Dextrin

Hexyl nicotinate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

De-puffing

Might be able to enhance blood flow in the skin. Can be irritating and result in skin redness

More about Hexyl nicotinate

Hexylene glycol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol

Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Tocopheryl acetate~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Ci 19140~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A yellow dye

More about Ci 19140

Ci 42090~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A colorant (dye)

More about Ci 42090

Linalool~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Coumarin~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritating

More about Coumarin

Limonene~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Hydroxycitronellal~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritating

More about Hydroxycitronellal

Citral~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral

Citronellol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Benzyl alcohol~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol

Benzyl salicylate~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate

Parfum~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Ingredient list view

Water, Dimethicone, Alcohol denat., Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Glycine soja oil, Triticum vulgare seed extract, Urea, Aspartic acid, Glucose, Fructose, Manganese gluconate, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, Cholesterol, Alanine, Magnesium gluconate, Ascorbyl glucoside, Copper gluconate, Sucrose, Vitreoscilla ferment, Citric acid, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Biosaccharide gum-1, Maltodextrin, Panthenol, Menthoxypropanediol, Glutamic acid, Dextrin, Hexyl nicotinate, Hexylene glycol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Ci 19140, Ci 42090, Linalool, Coumarin, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal, Citral, Citronellol, Benzyl alcohol, Benzyl salicylate, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	BIOTHERMAQUAPOWER GEL ADVANCED MOISTURIZERYOUR PRODUCT	BIOAQUAPOWER GEL MOISTURIZER	CetaphilOptimal Hydration Skin Replenishing Water Gel	BaleaQ10 Anti-Age Night Cream
Match	—	67%	55%	54%
Price	$8.62	$38.00+$29.38	—	$3.99−$4.63
Shared key ingredients	—	16 of 20	4 of 20	10 of 20
Key difference	—	Copper Pca	Niacinamide	Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Irritancy	High	High	Low	Medium
Drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "BIOTHERM HOMME - AQUAPOWER GEL ADVANCED MOISTURIZER" works well for improving skin hydration This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (urea, alanine, aspartic acid, biosaccharide gum-1 and fructose) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Cholesterol, glycine soja oil, prunus armeniaca kernel oil, butyrospermum parkii butter and dimethicone in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e and copper gluconate

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.