BIOTHERM Blue Therapy Blue Retinol Night Serum Anti-Aging

BIOTHERM Blue Therapy Blue Retinol Night Serum Anti-Aging

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Exfoliation
Retinol
Works well
What the product description says
“Its formula combines the regenerative action of Plankton of Life with a dermatological active anti-aging reference, pure and highly dosed retinol (0.25%) for an anti-wrinkle and resurfacing effectiveness:”
Source: Cocoon Center

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.7%
Anti-aging
Retinol, Niacinamide + 3 more
Works well
What the product description says
“0.25% Pure Retinol, a form of vitamin A naturally present in the body, known to visibly reduce the signs of aging, including wrinkles, even skin tone and spot correction.”
Source: Cocoon Center

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol, adenosine, niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.7%
NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.2–1.9%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.15–0.65%
Alaria esculenta extractEffect: LowWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.5–1.1%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.45%
Evens skin tone
Retinol, Niacinamide
Works well
What the product description says
“0.25% Pure Retinol, a form of vitamin A naturally present in the body, known to visibly reduce the signs of aging, including wrinkles, even skin tone and spot correction.”
Source: Cocoon Center

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

In addition, this product contains niacinamide. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.7%
NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.2–1.9%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Niacinamide, Glycerin + 13 more
Works well

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycine soja oil, isononyl isononanoate.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.2–1.9%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–6.4%
Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~1.4–2%
Alaria esculenta extractKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.5–1.1%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.7%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.15–0.65%
Isononyl isononanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~3.6–5.4%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~2.1–3.1%
Dicaprylyl ether· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients~1.7–2.5%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~1–1.45%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~0.4–0.9%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.15–0.6%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.45%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.45%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.15–0.7%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Niacinamide, Retinol
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide, retinol. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.2–1.9%
RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.7%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Retinol, Alaria esculenta extract + 2 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.7%
Alaria esculenta extractEffect: LowWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.5–1.1%
AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.15–0.65%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Alcohol denat., Retinol + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~2.7–4%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~1–1.45%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.15–0.7%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.01–0.1%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.01–0.05%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~2.1–3.1%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~1.4–2%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.15–0.7%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.6%est.
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinateUsed to improve stability of the formulationMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Macrocystis pyrifera extract—3/5~0.4–0.9%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~1.4–2%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.2–6.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Isononyl isononanoate~3.6–5.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate
Alcohol denat.~2.7–4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.
Pentylene glycol~2.1–3.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Dicaprylyl ether~1.7–2.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients

More about Dicaprylyl ether
Glycine soja oil~1.4–2%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Niacinamide~1.2–1.9%
Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizingReduces irritationAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Propylene glycol~1–1.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Peg-6 caprylic/capric glycerides~0.8–1.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps dissolve other ingredients

More about Peg-6 caprylic/capric glycerides
Alaria esculenta extract~0.5–1.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.

More about Alaria esculenta extract
Macrocystis pyrifera extract~0.4–0.9%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Macrocystis pyrifera extract
Dicaprylyl carbonate~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Glyceryl isostearate~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Glyceryl isostearate
Ppg-6-decyltetradeceth-30~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Ppg-6-decyltetradeceth-30
Sodium hyaluronate~0.3–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Sodium hydroxide~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Retinol~0.15–0.7%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidationExfoliationMattifyingAnti-blemish

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Adenosine~0.15–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.15–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Vitreoscilla ferment~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to improve stability of the formulation

More about Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate
Xanthan gum~0.1–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Butylene glycol~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Tocopherol~0.1–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to increase stability of product formulations

More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium benzoate~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Linalool~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Geraniol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Limonene~0.01–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Parfum~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Isononyl isononanoate, Alcohol denat., Pentylene glycol, Dicaprylyl ether, Glycine soja oil, Niacinamide, Propylene glycol, Peg-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, Alaria esculenta extract, Macrocystis pyrifera extract, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Glyceryl isostearate, Ppg-6-decyltetradeceth-30, Sodium hyaluronate, Sodium hydroxide, Retinol, Adenosine, Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Caprylyl glycol, Vitreoscilla ferment, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Xanthan gum, Butylene glycol, Tocopherol, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene, Parfum

Compare prices

Retailers ranked by price — lowest first.

🇫🇷 Cocoon Center (FR)30 ml
≈ $80.29
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🇬🇧 Amazon UK (UK)Price as of 11/8 06:10 GMT
≈ $85.97
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
BIOTHERMBlue Therapy Blue Retinol Night Serum Anti-AgingYOUR PRODUCTKiehl'sRetinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose SerumUnicskinUnicWrinkle-Stop SerumLa Roche-PosayRetinol B3 Anti-Ageing Serum
Match—99%96%96%
Price—$54.56$60.84$33.73
Shared key ingredients—6 of 76 of 76 of 7
Key difference—Hydroxypalmitoyl SphinganinePolysilicone-11Polysilicone-11
Irritancy High Medium High High
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol — Contains drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol
View product Shop Shop Shop

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Product summary

"BIOTHERM - Blue Therapy Blue Retinol Night Serum Anti-Aging" is effective for: Moisturizing, Anti-blemish, Evens skin tone and Anti-aging

Ingredient callouts

  • Adenosine 0.15% - 0.65%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
  • Humectants (sodium hyaluronate 0.30% - 0.70% and glycerin 4.20% - 6.40%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Price

The product retails from 58.33£ up to 106.65£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 17 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
    Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
BIOTHERM Blue Therapy Blue Retinol Night Serum Anti-Aging
BIOTHERMBlue Therapy Blue Retinol Night Serum Anti-Aging

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.