Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-aging
- Anti-blemish
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Key actives
Product Summary
"BIOTHERM - Blue Therapy Blue Pro-Retinol Multi-Correct Anti-Ageing Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Glycerin, polyglycerin-3 and sodium hyaluronate in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Helianthus annuus seed cera, helianthus annuus seed wax, jojoba esters, acacia decurrens flower cera and cetyl alcohol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- We particularly like that there is a good concentration of Niacinamide (1.80% - 2.30%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
- This moisturizer includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.15% - 0.30%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
- Adenosine 0.20% - 0.40%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
Irritation risk
There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 48.80£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Blue Therapy Blue Pro-Retinol Multi-Correct Anti-Ageing Cream
Source: From product name
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.
Anti-blemish
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
At its right concentration, it acts effectively against wrinkles and fine lines.Activated at the contact of skin, this multi-correct cream with unctuous and velvety texture melts with the skin, releasing its anti-ageing power to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and even the complexion.The skin is immediately moisturised and more luminous.
Source: Cocoon Center
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Blue Therapy Blue Pro-Retinol Multi-Correct Anti-Ageing Cream
Source: From product name
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, polyglycerin-3.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed cera, helianthus annuus seed wax.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Mimosa flower fax. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It adds a nice smell, but could be irritating
Helps soften upper layer of the skin and can enhance penetration of other ingredients into the upper layer of the skin
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients
Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent
Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin
Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 BIOTHERM Blue Therapy Blue Pro-Retinol Multi-Correct Anti-Ageing Cream | Current | $48.80 | |
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Key Actives
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Potential irritants
Mimosa flower fax. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It adds a nice smell, but could be irritating
Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
Helps oil and water mix together and used to stabilize product formulations
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Used to improve stability of the formulation
Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
Helps soften upper layer of the skin and can enhance penetration of other ingredients into the upper layer of the skin
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
An emollient that softens the skin and helps prevent moisture loss.
Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient
Mimosa flower fax. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It adds a nice smell, but could be irritating
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency
Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.
Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
Helps oil and water mix together and used to stabilize product formulations
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Used to improve stability of the formulation
Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)
Helps water and oil mix together and create gel-like textures
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Used to increase stability of product formulations
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl ether, Pentylene glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Cetyl esters, Jojoba esters, Cetearyl isononanoate, Behenyl alcohol, Acacia decurrens flower cera, Acacia decurrens flower wax, Helianthus annuus seed cera, Helianthus annuus seed wax, Alaria esculenta extract, Macrocystis pyrifera extract, Unknown, Sorbitan oleate, Sclerotium gum, Isohexadecane, Lecithin, Sodium hyaluronate, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Silica, Pullulan, Adenosine, Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Vitreoscilla ferment, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate, Xanthan gum, Polyglycerin-3, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Polysorbate 80, Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, Cetyl alcohol, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopherol, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Chlorphenesin, Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene, Parfum
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Comparison of skin calming effects of cosmetic products containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol or acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester on capsaicin-induced facial stinging in volunteers with sensitive skin
- Amended Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Final Report of the Safety Assessment of Acacia Catechu Gum, Acacia Concinna Fruit Extract, Acacia Dealbata Leaf Extract, Acacia Dealbata Leaf Wax, Acacia Decurrens Extract, Acacia Farnesiana Extract, Acacia Farnesiana Flower Wax, Acacia Farnesiana Gum, Acacia Senegal Extract, Acacia Senegal Gum, and Acacia Senegal Gum Extract1
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique
- Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate as Used in Cosmetics
- Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts