What's In My Jar
BIOTHERM BLUE PRO-RETINOL MULTI-CORRECT CREAM
BIOTHERM

BIOTHERM BLUE PRO-RETINOL MULTI-CORRECT CREAM

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging
Niacinamide, Adenosine + 3 more
Works well
What the product description says
“A pro-retinol anti-aging cream for wrinkles and fine lines, clinically proven to smooth out skin texture and promote skin evenness for all skin types.”
Source: Biotherm CA

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.8–2.3%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%
Alaria esculenta extractEffect: Low, below effective doseWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.45–0.65%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.3%
Evens skin tone
Niacinamide, Retinyl palmitate
Works well
What the product description says
“niacinamide , which protects, soothes and brightens skin;”
Source: Biotherm CA

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.8–2.3%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.3%
Moisturizing
Niacinamide, Glycerin + 17 more
Works well
What the product description says
“The anti-aging hydrating cream has a 92% natural formula free of silicon, parabens, mineral oils and sulfate.”
Source: Biotherm CA

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, polyglycerin-3.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed cera, jojoba esters.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.8–2.3%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.6–5.6%
Cetyl estersKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften upper layer of the skin and can enhance penetration of other ingredients into the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.7%
Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~1.2–1.4%
Acacia decurrens flower ceraKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumMimosa flower fax. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It adds a nice smell, but could be irritating~0.55–0.85%
Helianthus annuus seed ceraKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.25–0.45%
Polyglycerin-3Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%
Dicaprylyl ether· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients~4.1–5%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~3.1–3.7%
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~2.2–2.7%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.7–1.05%
Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.45–0.7%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Alaria esculenta extractUnder-dosedWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.45–0.65%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.25–0.5%
Exfoliation
Retinyl palmitate
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Blue Pro-Retinol Multi-Correct Cream is Biotherm's new anti-aging retinol cream that offers continuous daily resurfacing correction .”
Source: Biotherm CA

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Retinyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.3%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Niacinamide, Retinyl palmitate
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.8–2.3%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Alcohol, Retinyl palmitate + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Acacia decurrens flower ceraMimosa flower fax. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It adds a nice smell, but could be irritatingHigh~0.55–0.85%est.
PullulanCreates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effectHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~3.1–3.7%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skinMedium~2.2–2.7%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~1.2–1.4%est.
Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Hydroxypropyl starch phosphateHelps oil and water mix together and used to stabilize product formulationsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinateUsed to improve stability of the formulationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswaxHelps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Macrocystis pyrifera extract—3/5~0.35–0.6%est.
Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix together2/5~0.4–0.6%est.
Alternatives
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.6–5.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Dicaprylyl ether~4.1–5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients

More about Dicaprylyl ether
Pentylene glycol~3.1–3.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Polyglyceryl-6 distearate~2.2–2.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-6 distearate
Niacinamide~1.8–2.3%
Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Propanediol~1.6–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Cetyl esters~1.4–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften upper layer of the skin and can enhance penetration of other ingredients into the upper layer of the skin

More about Cetyl esters
Jojoba esters~1.2–1.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Cetearyl isononanoate~0.9–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

An emollient that softens the skin and helps prevent moisture loss.

More about Cetearyl isononanoate
Behenyl alcohol~0.7–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Acacia decurrens flower cera~0.55–0.85%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Mimosa flower fax. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It adds a nice smell, but could be irritating

More about Acacia decurrens flower cera
Helianthus annuus seed cera~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Helianthus annuus seed cera
Alaria esculenta extract~0.45–0.65%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.

More about Alaria esculenta extract
Macrocystis pyrifera extract~0.35–0.6%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Macrocystis pyrifera extract
Sorbitan oleate~0.4–0.6%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan oleate
Sclerotium gum~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Isohexadecane~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane
Lecithin~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Silica~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Pullulan~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Mattifying

Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect

More about Pullulan
Adenosine~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Alcohol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Hydroxyacetophenone~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone
Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps oil and water mix together and used to stabilize product formulations

More about Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Vitreoscilla ferment~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Vitreoscilla ferment
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to improve stability of the formulation

More about Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate
Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Polyglycerin-3~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglycerin-3
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)

More about Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax
Polysorbate 80~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80
Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps water and oil mix together and create gel-like textures

More about Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer
Cetyl alcohol~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Retinyl palmitate~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to increase stability of product formulations

More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Chlorphenesin~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Linalool~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Geraniol~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Limonene~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Parfum~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl ether, Pentylene glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Cetyl esters, Jojoba esters, Cetearyl isononanoate, Behenyl alcohol, Acacia decurrens flower cera, Helianthus annuus seed cera, Alaria esculenta extract, Macrocystis pyrifera extract, Sorbitan oleate, Sclerotium gum, Isohexadecane, Lecithin, Sodium hyaluronate, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Silica, Pullulan, Adenosine, Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Vitreoscilla ferment, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate, Xanthan gum, Polyglycerin-3, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Polysorbate 80, Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, Cetyl alcohol, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopherol, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Chlorphenesin, Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
BIOTHERMBLUE PRO-RETINOL MULTI-CORRECT CREAMYOUR PRODUCTVichyMinéral 89 72H Moisture Boosting CreamGoodalBlack Carrot Vita-A Retinol Firming Creamhwarang'Bellflower Moisturizing Barrier Cream
Match—100%92%91%
Price—$27.33$30.60$14.18
Shared key ingredients—7 of 118 of 117 of 11
Key difference—Capryloyl Salicylic AcidRetinolPanthenol
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Product summary

"BIOTHERM - BLUE PRO-RETINOL MULTI-CORRECT CREAM" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Glycerin, polyglycerin-3 and sodium hyaluronate in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (helianthus annuus seed cera, helianthus annuus seed wax, jojoba esters, acacia decurrens flower cera and cetyl alcohol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • We love that this moisturizer contains a good concentration of niacinamide 1.80% - 2.30%. Niacinamide is a perfect active in a moistruizer because it helps calm down inflamation in skin and support the skin barrier. More than that, it is helpful for most common skin concerns: it helps regulat oil production, help reduce acne and clogged pores, improve skin tone and prevent pigmentation marks. It also helps fight photodamage.
  • This moisturizer includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.15% - 0.30%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
  • Adenosine 0.20% - 0.40%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e, caprylic/capric triglyceride and lecithin

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 98.00CA$ up to 108.00CA$ in Canada, for 134.45A$ in Australia and for 59.44£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 14 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Comparison of skin calming effects of cosmetic products containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol or acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester on capsaicin-induced facial stinging in volunteers with sensitive skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Amended Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  6. 6
    Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
BIOTHERM BLUE PRO-RETINOL MULTI-CORRECT CREAM
BIOTHERMBLUE PRO-RETINOL MULTI-CORRECT CREAM
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