BIOTHERM Blue Pro-Retinol Eye Cream Anti-Aging
Works for
2 of 2 advertised claims delivered
Anti-aging7 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
“Blue Pro-Retinol Eye Cream Anti-Aging”
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Moisturizing18 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
“Blue Pro-Retinol Eye Cream Anti-Aging”
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
arginine, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, chondrus crispus extract.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy5 strong irritants: Alcohol, Retinyl palmitate + 3 more — patch-test recommendedHigh risk
Comedogenic4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale4 flagged
User reviews
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Ingredients
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Water~40–60%
Glycerin~3.8–5.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinCetearyl alcohol~3.2–4.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 2/5
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
More about Cetearyl alcoholGlyceryl stearate~2.5–3.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
More about Glyceryl stearateLauryl laurate~2–3%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
More about Lauryl laurateGlyceryl stearate citrate~1.7–2.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin
More about Glyceryl stearate citrateGlyceryl stearate se~1.4–2.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 2/5
Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient
More about Glyceryl stearate seChondrus crispus extract~1.3–1.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency
More about Chondrus crispus extractPrunus armeniaca kernel oil~1.1–1.6%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
An emollient that helps soften the skin
More about Prunus armeniaca kernel oilAlaria esculenta extract~0.8–1.25%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.
More about Alaria esculenta extractButyrospermum parkii butter~0.55–1.25%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
More about Butyrospermum parkii butterCaffeine~0.4–0.95%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes
More about CaffeineSodium lactate~0.35–0.85%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
More about Sodium lactateSodium phytate~0.35–0.75%
Arginine~0.2–0.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin
More about ArgininePalmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.35–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.3–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Adenosine~0.15–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
More about AdenosineAlcohol~0.15–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- High
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
More about AlcoholPropanediol~0.15–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
More about PropanediolHydroxyacetophenone~0.15–0.6%
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.15–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
More about Caprylic/capric triglycerideCaprylyl glycol~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
More about Caprylyl glycolVitreoscilla ferment~0.15–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Citric acid~0.1–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
More about Citric acidTrisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate~0.1–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Used to improve stability of the formulation
More about Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinateXanthan gum~0.1–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a thicker product consistency
More about Xanthan gumRetinyl palmitate~0.1–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- High
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
More about Retinyl palmitateTocopherol~0.1–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
More about TocopherolPentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.1–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to increase stability of product formulations
More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamateChlorphenesin~0.05–0.25%
Linalool~0.05–0.2%
Limonene~0.05–0.15%
- Irritation risk
- High
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
More about LimoneneParfum~0.05–0.1%
- Irritation risk
- High
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
More about ParfumIngredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Lauryl laurate, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Glyceryl stearate se, Chondrus crispus extract, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Alaria esculenta extract, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Caffeine, Sodium lactate, Sodium phytate, Arginine, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Adenosine, Alcohol, Propanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Caprylyl glycol, Vitreoscilla ferment, Citric acid, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Xanthan gum, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopherol, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Chlorphenesin, Linalool, Limonene, Parfum
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Worth comparing, line by line.
Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.
| BIOTHERMBlue Pro-Retinol Eye Cream Anti-AgingYOUR PRODUCT | BIOBLUE PRO-RETINOL EYE CREAM | AlgenistELEVATE Firming and Lifting Contouring Eye Cream | MEDI-PEELEye Tox Cream | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Match | — | 71% | 61% | 61% |
| Price | $46.01 | $82.00+$35.99 | $36.00−$10.01 | $15.65−$30.36 |
| Shared key ingredients | — | 12 of 12 | 7 of 12 | 5 of 12 |
| Key difference | — | — | Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide | Urea |
| Irritancy | High | High | Medium | Medium |
| Drying alcohol | Contains drying alcohol | Contains drying alcohol | — | — |
| View product | Shop | Shop | Shop |
Product summary
Based on the ingredients included, "BIOTHERM - Blue Pro-Retinol Eye Cream Anti-Aging" works well for moisturizing the skin. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Humectants in this product (arginine, glycerin, sodium lactate and caprylyl glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, prunus armeniaca kernel oil, arginine and chondrus crispus extract in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- this moisturizer includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.10% - 0.45%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
- This moisturizer also contains Peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.30% - 0.75% and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.35% - 0.75%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
- Adenosine 0.15% - 0.70%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
Irritation risk
We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 34.80£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 5 studies and safety reviews.
- 1
- 2
- 3Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 4Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
- 5
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