BIOTHERM

BIOTHERM Aquasource Rich Cream for Dry Skin

Name: BIOTHERM - Aquasource Rich Cream for Dry Skin
Brand: BIOTHERM

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing

Panthenol, Ceramide 3 + 17 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Aquasource Rich Cream for Dry Skin”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: citrulline, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide 3, hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine, panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.95–1.15%

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.3–4%

SerineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Ceramide 3Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.6–0.9%

CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.3–0.55%

CitrullineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~5.8–7.1%

DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.4–0.6%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–5.1%

2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediolKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time~0.25–0.45%

Prunus armeniaca kernel oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin~2.4–3%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.45–0.65%

Hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganineHeroEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.25–0.45%

Glyceryl linolenateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%

Peg/ppg/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps create a nice product texture and attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.7–1.05%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.5–0.75%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.5%

Magnesium gluconateEffect: LowA mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking~0.25–0.45%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · Serine, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 1 more

Moderate evidence

This product contains serine. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

SerineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.3–4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

8 strong irritants: Alcohol denat., Menthoxypropanediol + 6 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 22 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~2–2.4%est.

Glyceryl oleateHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.7%est.

Sodium lauryl sulfateA cleansing agent (SLS). It can be irritatingHigh~0.6–0.9%est.

MenthoxypropanediolUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Ci 19140A yellow dyeHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

Prunus armeniaca kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~2.4–3%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~1.1–1.4%est.

Glyceryl linoleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.55–0.85%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.45–0.65%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

T-butyl alcoholUsed to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritatingMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

BhtA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Ci 14700A colorantMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

3 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~3.3–4%est.

Sodium lauryl sulfateA cleansing agent (SLS). It can be irritating3/5~0.6–0.9%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.45–0.65%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Dimethicone~5.8–7.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Glycerin~4.2–5.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Butyrospermum parkii butter~3.3–4%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Prunus armeniaca kernel oil~2.4–3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Prunus armeniaca kernel oil

Alcohol denat.~2–2.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.

Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate~1.7–2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate

Mannose~1.4–1.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Mannose

Tocopheryl acetate~1.1–1.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Panthenol~0.95–1.15%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Peg/ppg/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin~0.7–1.05%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps create a nice product texture and attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Peg/ppg/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin

Ceramide 3~0.6–0.9%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide 3

Glyceryl linoleate~0.55–0.85%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Glyceryl linoleate

Glyceryl linolenate~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl linolenate

Glyceryl oleate~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Glyceryl oleate

Glyceryl stearate~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Glycine soja oil~0.45–0.65%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer

Dimethiconol~0.4–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol

Sodium hydroxide~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Sodium lauryl sulfate~0.6–0.9%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Cleansing

A cleansing agent (SLS). It can be irritating

More about Sodium lauryl sulfate

Serine~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Serine

2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time

More about 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol

Cholesterol~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingCleansing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol

Magnesium gluconate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking

More about Magnesium gluconate

Disodium edta~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

More about Hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine

Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Vitreoscilla ferment~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Vitreoscilla ferment

Citric acid~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Citrulline~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Citrulline

Menthoxypropanediol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Menthoxypropanediol

T-butyl alcohol~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritating

More about T-butyl alcohol

Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl ether~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl ether

Acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer

Bht~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Bht

Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Ci 14700~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A colorant

More about Ci 14700

Ci 19140~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A yellow dye

More about Ci 19140

Linalool~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Geraniol~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Limonene~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Citral~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral

Benzyl alcohol~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol

Benzyl salicylate~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate

Parfum~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Ingredient list view

Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Alcohol denat., Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Mannose, Tocopheryl acetate, Panthenol, Peg/ppg/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin, Ceramide 3, Glyceryl linoleate, Glyceryl linolenate, Glyceryl oleate, Glyceryl stearate, Glycine soja oil, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium lauryl sulfate, Serine, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, Cholesterol, Magnesium gluconate, Disodium edta, Hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine, Caprylyl glycol, Vitreoscilla ferment, Citric acid, Citrulline, Menthoxypropanediol, T-butyl alcohol, Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl ether, Acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, Bht, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Ci 14700, Ci 19140, Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene, Citral, Benzyl alcohol, Benzyl salicylate, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	BIOTHERMAquasource Rich Cream for Dry SkinYOUR PRODUCT	BIOAQUASOURCE DRY SKIN	UltraceuticalsUltra Rich Moisturiser Cream	LancômeHydra Zen Neurocalm Night Cream
Match	—	63%	53%	52%
Price	$40.58	$40.58	$118.00+$77.42	$46.98+$6.40
Shared key ingredients	—	11 of 14	7 of 14	7 of 14
Key difference	—	Adenosine	Ceramide Np	Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Irritancy	High	High	Medium	High
Drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "BIOTHERM - Aquasource Rich Cream for Dry Skin" works well for improving skin hydration The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Panthenol, citrulline, glycerin, peg/ppg/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin and caprylyl glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide 3, cholesterol, glycine soja oil, prunus armeniaca kernel oil and butyrospermum parkii butter) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide 3 0.60% - 0.90%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
This formulation also includes panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 0.95% - 1.15% concentration. In this concentration, panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.