Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Evens skin tone
- Exfoliation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Key actives
Product Summary
"BIOTHERM - Aquasource Gel Normal/Combination Skin" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Glycerin and hydroxyethyl urea in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, cholesterol, glycine soja oil, prunus armeniaca kernel oil and butyrospermum parkii butter) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.60% - 0.90%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 50.00CA$ in Canada, for 104.59A$ in Australia and for 38.53£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Works for
Exfoliation
This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: capryloyl salicylic acid, hydroxyethyl urea.
A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients
Used to regulate product's pH, but can be also used as an exfoliator when included in higher concentrations. There is a controversy about whether it can generate free radicals and induce skin cell damage when used in topical products
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
An ultra-hydrating gel with enhanced aura leaf for extra glowing, hydrated skin.
Source: Sephora CA
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, hydroxyethyl urea.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np, hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
An emollient that helps soften the skin
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
An emollient that is naturally found in skin
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
This iconic moisturizer, now with an even more regenerative action and visible efficiency on brightness, leave skin softer, smoother, more even, and radiant in as little as 10 days.
Source: Sephora CA
This product might be able to help reduce hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains hydroxyethyl urea. The effect, if any, is likely to be small. Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: capryloyl salicylic acid.
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 87/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 BIOTHERM Aquasource Gel Normal/Combination Skin | Current | $55.00 | |
 Vichy Idéalia Night Recovery Gel-Balm | 53% | $22.50 |
Key Actives
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
An emollient that helps soften the skin
A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients
An emollient that is naturally found in skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Used to regulate product's pH, but can be also used as an exfoliator when included in higher concentrations. There is a controversy about whether it can generate free radicals and induce skin cell damage when used in topical products
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time
Potential irritants
Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products
Used as a fragrance. Might have anti-oxidant properties
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Used to regulate product's pH, but can be also used as an exfoliator when included in higher concentrations. There is a controversy about whether it can generate free radicals and induce skin cell damage when used in topical products
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Comedogenic ingredients
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
All ingredients
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
Used to regulate product's pH, but can be also used as an exfoliator when included in higher concentrations. There is a controversy about whether it can generate free radicals and induce skin cell damage when used in topical products
A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Used as a fragrance. Might have anti-oxidant properties
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time
Used to create a thicker product consistency
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Alcohol denat., Dimethicone, Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Hydroxyethyl urea, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Nasturtium officinale extract, C12-13 pareth-23, C12-13 pareth-3, Ceramide np, Carbomer, Zinc gluconate, Glycine soja oil, Sodium chloride, Sodium hydroxide, Divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, Cholesterol, Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Disodium edta, Hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine, Capryloyl salicylic acid, Vitreoscilla ferment, Citric acid, Xanthan gum, Menthoxypropanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Bht, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Ci 19140, Ci 42090, Linalool, Limonene, Citral, Parfum
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Oxidative DNA damage induced by HEPES (2-[4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1-piperazinyl]ethanesulfonic acid) buffer in the presence of Au(III)
- Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethyl Urea As Used in Cosmetics
- Nasturtium officinale R. Br. effectively reduces the skin inflammation induced by croton oil via glucocorticoid receptor-dependent and NF-κB pathways without causing toxicological effects in mice
- Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- Zinc salts in dermatology
- An overview of zinc and its importance in dermatology-Part II: The association of zinc with some dermatologic disorders
- Zinc, copper and manganese enhanced keratinocyte migration through a functional modulation of keratinocyte integrins
- Evaluation of the effects of topical zinc gluconate in wound healing
- A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity
- Safety Assessment of Ceramides as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of Acryloyldimethyltaurate Polymers as Used in Cosmetics
- Acceptability and Efficacy of an Emollient Containing Ceramide-Precursor Lipids and Moisturizing Factors for Atopic Dermatitis in Pediatric Patients
- Emollient treatment of atopic dermatitis: latest evidence and clinical considerations
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Analysis of Dyes in Cosmetics: Challenges and Recent Developments