BIOTHERM Aquasource Gel Normal/Combination Skin

BIOTHERM Aquasource Gel Normal/Combination Skin

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
12 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“An ultra-hydrating gel with enhanced aura leaf for extra glowing, hydrated skin.”
Source: Sephora CA

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydroxyethyl urea.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np, hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine

Hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganineHeroEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.25–0.4%
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin~1.9–2.4%
Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.45–0.65%
Hydroxyethyl ureaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~1.6–2%
2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediolKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time~0.3–0.55%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.5–1.8%
Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.6–0.9%
CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.35–0.6%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~3.1–3.8%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.5–5.5%
Zinc gluconateUnder-dosedEffect: HighTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.45–0.65%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.4%
Evens skin tone
2 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support
What the product description says
“This iconic moisturizer, now with an even more regenerative action and visible efficiency on brightness, leave skin softer, smoother, more even, and radiant in as little as 10 days.”
Source: Sephora CA

This product might be able to help reduce hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains hydroxyethyl urea. The effect, if any, is likely to be small. Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: capryloyl salicylic acid.

Capryloyl salicylic acidKey activeEffect: Medium~0.25–0.4%
Zinc gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.45–0.65%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: capryloyl salicylic acid, hydroxyethyl urea.

Capryloyl salicylic acidKey activeEffect: High~0.25–0.4%
Hydroxyethyl ureaKey activeEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~1.6–2%
Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acidKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to regulate product's pH, but can be also used as an exfoliator when included in higher concentrations. There is a controversy about whether it can generate free radicals and induce skin cell damage when used in topical products~2.3–2.8%
Zinc gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.45–0.65%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 strong irritants: Alcohol denat., Nasturtium officinale extract + 5 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~4.2–5.2%est.
Nasturtium officinale extractUsed as a fragrance. Might have anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~1.1–1.4%est.
Capryloyl salicylic acid—High~0.25–0.4%est.
MenthoxypropanediolUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Ci 19140A yellow dyeHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acidUsed to regulate product's pH, but can be also used as an exfoliator when included in higher concentrations. There is a controversy about whether it can generate free radicals and induce skin cell damage when used in topical productsMedium~2.3–2.8%est.
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~1.9–2.4%est.
Zinc gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skinMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.45–0.65%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Ci 42090A colorant (dye)Medium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.5–1.8%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.45–0.65%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.5–5.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Alcohol denat.~4.2–5.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.
Dimethicone~3.1–3.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid~2.3–2.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to regulate product's pH, but can be also used as an exfoliator when included in higher concentrations. There is a controversy about whether it can generate free radicals and induce skin cell damage when used in topical products

More about Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid
Prunus armeniaca kernel oil~1.9–2.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Prunus armeniaca kernel oil
Hydroxyethyl urea~1.6–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
ExfoliationMoisturizing

A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients

More about Hydroxyethyl urea
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.5–1.8%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Nasturtium officinale extract~1.1–1.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Used as a fragrance. Might have anti-oxidant properties

More about Nasturtium officinale extract
C12-13 pareth-23~1.1–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about C12-13 pareth-23
C12-13 pareth-3~0.7–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about C12-13 pareth-3
Ceramide np~0.6–0.9%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Carbomer~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Zinc gluconate~0.45–0.65%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Zinc gluconate
Glycine soja oil~0.45–0.65%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Sodium chloride~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride
Sodium hydroxide~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer~0.35–0.65%
Formula
2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time

More about 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol
Cholesterol~0.35–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingCleansing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol
Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate
Disodium edta~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine~0.25–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine
Capryloyl salicylic acid~0.25–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationAnti-blemishEvens skin tone
More about Capryloyl salicylic acid
Vitreoscilla ferment~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Citric acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Xanthan gum~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Menthoxypropanediol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Menthoxypropanediol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Bht~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Tocopherol~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Ci 19140~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A yellow dye

More about Ci 19140
Ci 42090~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant (dye)

More about Ci 42090
Linalool~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Limonene~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Citral~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Parfum~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Alcohol denat., Dimethicone, Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Hydroxyethyl urea, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Nasturtium officinale extract, C12-13 pareth-23, C12-13 pareth-3, Ceramide np, Carbomer, Zinc gluconate, Glycine soja oil, Sodium chloride, Sodium hydroxide, Divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, Cholesterol, Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Disodium edta, Hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine, Capryloyl salicylic acid, Vitreoscilla ferment, Citric acid, Xanthan gum, Menthoxypropanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Bht, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Ci 19140, Ci 42090, Linalool, Limonene, Citral, Parfum

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Amazon CAPrice as of 10/18/2026 03:02 GMT
≈ $40.58
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Amazon AustraliaPrice as of 10/21/2026 15:50 GMT
≈ $50.10
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
BIOTHERMAquasource Gel Normal/Combination SkinYOUR PRODUCTL'Oréal ParisMicro Hyaluronic acid + Ceramides line-plumping water creamVichyIdéalia Night Recovery Gel-BalmBIOAQUASOURCE DRY SKIN
Match—55%53%50%
Price$69.69$32.99−$36.70$30.03−$39.66$47.00−$22.69
Shared key ingredients—5 of 145 of 1410 of 14
Key difference—NiacinamideNiacinamideAdenosine
Irritancy High Medium Medium High
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol
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Product summary

"BIOTHERM - Aquasource Gel Normal/Combination Skin" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Glycerin and hydroxyethyl urea in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, cholesterol, glycine soja oil, prunus armeniaca kernel oil and butyrospermum parkii butter) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.60% - 0.90%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 50.00CA$ in Canada, for 104.59A$ in Australia and for 38.53£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

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BIOTHERM Aquasource Gel Normal/Combination Skin
BIOTHERMAquasource Gel Normal/Combination Skin

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.