Augustinus Bader

Augustinus Bader The Icons with The Cream

Name: Augustinus Bader - The Icons with The Cream
Brand: Augustinus Bader

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

36 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“A lightweight, fast-absorbing hydrator with TFC8® that helps replenish moisture and restore the complexion.”

Source: Bluemercury

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanyl glutamine, anhydroxylitol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ng, ceramide np, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, panthenol

AnhydroxylitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function~0.35–0.6%

ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.25–0.45%

Alanyl glutamineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.3–0.6%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.4–0.65%

DextranKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar~0.35–0.6%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-8HeroEffect: High~0.35–0.6%

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.6–0.9%

CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.45–0.65%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.4–0.65%

Scenedesmus rubescens extractKey activeEffect: HighA micro-algae extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support its barrier function, amd might help neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.2–0.35%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.5–0.75%

Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.45–0.7%

Ceramide ngHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%

XylitylglucosideKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function~0.35–0.6%

LysineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.6%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~5.7–7%

Hydrolyzed rice proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.5–0.75%

ProlineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.3–0.5%

GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.35–0.6%

Glycine soja proteinKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: MediumA plant extract that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. It might be somewhat helpful for evening out the skin tone. It might be able to support elastin production but solid research is lacking~0.4–0.6%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.45–0.65%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1–1.3%

Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.45–0.65%

Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~1.4–1.7%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~3.8–4.7%

Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.4–0.6%

Dicaprylyl ether· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients~0.4–0.6%

Lauryl laurateEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.6%

Oleic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness~0.4–0.65%

Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.45–0.65%

Myristyl myristateUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic~0.4–0.65%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–0.75%

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.5–0.8%

Evens skin tone

3 ingredients credited for this claim

Limited support

What the product description says

“Clinically proven to reduce the appearance of cellulite and stretch marks.”

Source: Bluemercury

This product contains ingredients (glycine soja protein) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

Glycine soja proteinEffect: LowA plant extract that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. It might be somewhat helpful for evening out the skin tone. It might be able to support elastin production but solid research is lacking~0.4–0.6%

Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.45–0.7%

Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.45–0.65%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 10 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (superoxide dismutase) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Scenedesmus rubescens extractEffect: LowA micro-algae extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support its barrier function, amd might help neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.2–0.35%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: LowA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.5–0.75%

Hydrolyzed rice proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.5–0.75%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–0.75%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.45–0.65%

BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.3–0.55%

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.45–0.7%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · 10 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

This product contains alanyl glutamine, lysine, palmitoyl tripeptide-8. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Palmitoyl tripeptide-8Key activeEffect: Medium~0.35–0.6%

Alanyl glutamineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

LysineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

2 strong irritants: Alcohol, Retinyl palmitate — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 21 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~2.6–3.2%est.

AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.55–0.8%est.

Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.45–0.65%est.

Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.45–0.7%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~5.7–7%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~3.8–4.7%est.

Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholineHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.7–2%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~1.3–1.5%est.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.5–0.8%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.45–0.7%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

Oleic acidHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin drynessMedium~0.45–0.65%est.

Scenedesmus rubescens extractA micro-algae extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support its barrier function, amd might help neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lackingMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Lauryl laurateHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenicMedium~0.4–0.65%est.

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.6%est.

Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.65%est.

ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

3 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.9–1.1%est.

Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic3/5~0.4–0.65%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

The

Not recognized

Cream~25–30%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cream

Water~13–15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~5.7–7%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Pentylene glycol~3.8–4.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Propylene glycol~2.6–3.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol

Glycerin~2.1–2.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine~1.7–2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine

Sorbitol~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol

Tocopheryl acetate~1.3–1.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Butylene glycol~1–1.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.9–1.1%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Xanthan gum~0.65–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Panthenol~0.6–0.9%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Sodium carbomer~0.65–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps improve the texture

More about Sodium carbomer

Alcohol~0.55–0.8%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.5–0.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAntibacterialReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice

Hydrolyzed rice protein~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Hydrolyzed rice protein

Retinyl palmitate~0.45–0.65%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Squalane~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Phenoxyethanol~0.4–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Cholesterol~0.45–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingCleansing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Carbomer~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Ceramide np~0.45–0.65%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Lecithin~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Glycine soja protein~0.4–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. It might be somewhat helpful for evening out the skin tone. It might be able to support elastin production but solid research is lacking

More about Glycine soja protein

Superoxide dismutase~0.45–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants

More about Superoxide dismutase

Sodium hydroxide~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Alanyl glutamine~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Alanyl glutamine

Arginine~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine

Ceramide ng~0.4–0.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide ng

Citric acid~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Dextran~0.35–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar

More about Dextran

Glycine~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine

Lysine~0.35–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Lysine

Oleic acid~0.45–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness

More about Oleic acid

Palmitic acid~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid

Palmitoyl tripeptide-8~0.35–0.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-8

Phenylalanine~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Phenylalanine

Proline~0.35–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Proline

Scenedesmus rubescens extract~0.3–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A micro-algae extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support its barrier function, amd might help neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Scenedesmus rubescens extract

Ascorbic acid~0.45–0.7%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.35–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Tocopherol~0.5–0.75%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Brassica alba seed extract~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Brassica alba seed extract

Disodium edta~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Oligopeptide-177~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Oligopeptide-177

Sodium ascorbate~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sodium ascorbate

Sodium dextran sulfate~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sodium dextran sulfate

Potassium sorbate~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

The body

Not recognized

Cream~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cream

Water~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.45–0.65%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Behenyl alcohol~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol

Dicaprylyl ether~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients

More about Dicaprylyl ether

Glycerin~0.4–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Lauryl laurate~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lauryl laurate

Myristyl myristate~0.4–0.65%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic

More about Myristyl myristate

Glyceryl stearate~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate~0.4–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate

Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.45–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate

Xylitylglucoside~0.35–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitylglucoside

Anhydroxylitol~0.35–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function

More about Anhydroxylitol

Xylitol~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol

Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin

Alcohol~0.35–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Citric acid~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Bisabolol~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Xanthan gum~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Tocopherol~0.5–0.75%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.4–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Glucose~0.35–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose

Tocopheryl acetate~0.5–0.75%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Cholesterol~0.45–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingCleansing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Sodium hydroxide~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Verbena officinalis flower/leaf extract~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Verbena officinalis flower/leaf extract

Alanyl glutamine~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Alanyl glutamine

Arginine~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine

Ceramide ng~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide ng

Ceramide np~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

More about Ceramide np

Glycine~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine

Lysine~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Lysine

Oleic acid~0.4–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness

More about Oleic acid

Palmitic acid~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid

Phenylalanine~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Phenylalanine

Proline~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Proline

Scenedesmus rubescens extract~0.2–0.35%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

More about Scenedesmus rubescens extract

Brassica alba seed extract~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Brassica alba seed extract

Disodium edta~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Oligopeptide-177~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Oligopeptide-177

Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Sodium ascorbate~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sodium ascorbate

Ingredient list view

Unknown, Cream, Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Pentylene glycol, Propylene glycol, Glycerin, Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, Sorbitol, Tocopheryl acetate, Butylene glycol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Xanthan gum, Panthenol, Sodium carbomer, Alcohol, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Hydrolyzed rice protein, Retinyl palmitate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Cholesterol, Hydrogenated lecithin, Ascorbyl palmitate, Carbomer, Ceramide np, Lecithin, Glycine soja protein, Superoxide dismutase, Sodium hydroxide, Alanyl glutamine, Arginine, Ceramide ng, Citric acid, Dextran, Glycine, Lysine, Oleic acid, Palmitic acid, Palmitoyl tripeptide-8, Phenylalanine, Proline, Scenedesmus rubescens extract, Ascorbic acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium benzoate, Tocopherol, Brassica alba seed extract, Disodium edta, Oligopeptide-177, Sodium ascorbate, Sodium dextran sulfate, Potassium sorbate, Unknown, Cream, Water, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Behenyl alcohol, Dicaprylyl ether, Glycerin, Lauryl laurate, Myristyl myristate, Glyceryl stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Chlorphenesin, Alcohol, Sodium benzoate, Citric acid, Bisabolol, Xanthan gum, Tocopherol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Glucose, Tocopheryl acetate, Cholesterol, Hydrogenated lecithin, Sodium hydroxide, Verbena officinalis flower/leaf extract, Alanyl glutamine, Arginine, Ceramide ng, Ceramide np, Glycine, Lysine, Oleic acid, Palmitic acid, Phenylalanine, Proline, Scenedesmus rubescens extract, Brassica alba seed extract, Disodium edta, Oligopeptide-177, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium ascorbate

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Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Augustinus BaderThe Icons with The CreamYOUR PRODUCT	Youth To The PeopleAdaptogen Deep Moisture Cream Packet	Clinicians ComplexC-Plus Antioxidant Cream	Cellex-CAdvanced C Skin Tightening Cream
Match	—	67%	66%	66%
Price	$415.00	$52.00−$363.00	$70.00−$345.00	$155.25−$259.75
Shared key ingredients	—	3 of 24	7 of 24	4 of 24
Key difference	—	Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract	Ceramide 1	Dimethicone
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	—	—	Contains drying alcohol
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Augustinus Bader - The Icons with The Cream" works well for improving skin hydration As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Panthenol, alanyl glutamine, anhydroxylitol, arginine and dextran in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide ng, ceramide np, cholesterol, arginine and caprylic/capric triglyceride) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

This product also contains vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.45% - 0.70%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
This moisturizer includes a form of retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.45% - 0.65%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.30% - 0.55%, ceramide ng 0.30% - 0.55%, ceramide ng 0.40% - 0.60% and ceramide np 0.45% - 0.65%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
This moistruizer also contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-8 0.35% - 0.60%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
This formulation also uses an effective concentration of panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 0.60% - 0.90%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 35 studies and safety reviews.

1
Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
4
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
6
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
7
Protection Against Free Radicals (UVB Irradiation) of a Water-Soluble Enzymatic Extract from Rice Bran. Study Using Human Keratinocyte Monolayer and Reconstructed Human Epidermis link.springer.com
8
Amended final report on the safety assessment of Oryza Sativa (rice) Bran Oil, Oryza Sativa (rice) Germ Oil, Rice Bran Acid,Oryza Sativa (rice) Bran Wax, Hydrogenated Rice Bran Wax, Oryza Sativa (rice)Bran Extract, Oryza Sativa (rice) Extract, Oryza Sativa (rice) Germ Powder, Oryza Sativa (rice) Starch, Oryza Sativa (rice) Bran, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, and Hydrolyzed Rice Proteinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
9
Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
10
Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
11
Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
12
Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
13
Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
14
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
Dermatological and cosmeceutical benefits of Glycine max (soybean) and its active componentsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
16
Extracts from Glycine max (soybean) induce elastin synthesis and inhibit elastase activityonlinelibrary.wiley.com
17
A novel efficient and safe treatment for atopic dermatitis: Topical superoxide dismutase (SOD).alliedacademies.org
18
Novel topical agent containing superoxide dismutase 100 000 IU and 4% of plant extracts as a mono-therapy for atopic dermatitispubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
19
Copper/Zinc Superoxide Dismutase in Human Skin: Current Knowledgefrontiersin.org
20
Photoprotective Effect of Topically Applied Superoxide Dismutase on Sunburn Reaction in Comparison with Sunscreenonlinelibrary.wiley.com
21
The role of superoxide dismutase (SOD) in skin disorderslink.springer.com
22
Topical formulations with superoxide dismutase: Influence of formulation composition on physical stability and enzymatic activityresearchgate.net
23
Skin protective effects of RM191A, a novel superoxide dismutase mimeticbiorxiv.org
24
Topical emulsions containing ceramides: Effects on the skin barrier function and anti‐inflammatory propertiesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
25
Effect of Topical Application of Glycine and Proline on Recalcitrant Leg Ulcers of Prolidase Deficiencyjamanetwork.com
26
Functional glycine receptor in cultured human keratinocytesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
27
Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
28
Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oilsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
29
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0168365995000887sciencedirect.com
30
Psychoactive Properties of Microalgaesciencedirect.com
31
Protection strategies to inhibit blue light irradiation effects in-vitro and in skin ex-vivoresearchgate.net
32
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
33
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
34
α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammationresearchgate.net
35
Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Functionncbi.nlm.nih.gov

Augustinus BaderThe Icons with The Cream

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