Augustinus Bader

Augustinus Bader The Eye Cream GWP

Name: Augustinus Bader - The Eye Cream GWP
Brand: Augustinus Bader

Efficacy87/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

22 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Inspired by over 30 years of scientific innovation, this lightweight, yet intensely moisturizing formula is packed with potent peptides to increase skin firmness while reducing the appearance of under-eye puffiness and dark circles, fine lines and wrinkles.”

Source: Face the future

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanyl glutamine, arginine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, cocos nucifera oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

Centella asiatica flower/leaf/stem extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.2–0.4%

Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.35–0.6%

Corallina officinalis extractKey activeEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants~0.2–0.4%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–5.4%

Alanyl glutamineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~3–3.6%

Sisymbrium irio seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Could help reduce inflammation due to high content of linolenic acid~0.05–0.1%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~1.6–2%

Undaria pinnatifida extractKey activeEffect: HighA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.25–0.5%

ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.1–0.25%

Hydrogenated vegetable glyceridesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelp soften the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.4%

Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~4.1–5%

Hydrolyzed rice proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.2–0.4%

Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.7%

Oleic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness~0.5–0.7%

Ethyl oleate· EmollientEffect: LowEthyl oleate is a long-chain fatty acid ethyl ester resulting from the formal condensation of the carboxy group of oleic acid with the hydroxy group of ethanol. It derives from an oleic acid. In skincare, it is used to soften the upper layer of the skin, improve the product texture and smell~2.2–2.7%

NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.8–1.2%

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.45–0.65%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.65–1%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.4%

Anti-aging

5 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate evidence

What the product description says

“Inspired by over 30 years of scientific innovation, this lightweight, yet intensely moisturizing formula is packed with potent peptides to increase skin firmness while reducing the appearance of under-eye puffiness and dark circles, fine lines and wrinkles.”

Source: Face the future

This product contains alanyl glutamine. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Alanyl glutamineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.65–1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

9 flagged ingredients

Medium risk

We flagged 9 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Ethyl oleateEthyl oleate is a long-chain fatty acid ethyl ester resulting from the formal condensation of the carboxy group of oleic acid with the hydroxy group of ethanol. It derives from an oleic acid. In skincare, it is used to soften the upper layer of the skin, improve the product texture and smellMedium~2.2–2.7%est.

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.65–1%est.

Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.55–0.85%est.

Oleic acidHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin drynessMedium~0.5–0.7%est.

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.45–0.65%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.4%est.

Centella asiatica flower/leaf/stem extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.2–0.4%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.2–0.4%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.35–0.6%est.

Corallina officinalis extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants3/5~0.2–0.4%est.

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Ingredients

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Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.4–5.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Coco-caprylate/caprate~4.1–5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate

Panthenol~3–3.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Ethyl oleate~2.2–2.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Ethyl oleate is a long-chain fatty acid ethyl ester resulting from the formal condensation of the carboxy group of oleic acid with the hydroxy group of ethanol. It derives from an oleic acid. In skincare, it is used to soften the upper layer of the skin, improve the product texture and smell

More about Ethyl oleate

Ethylhexyl polyhydroxystearate~1.9–2.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ethylhexyl polyhydroxystearate

Squalane~1.6–2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Glyceryl stearate citrate~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate

Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides~1.2–1.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides

Niacinamide~0.8–1.2%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.65–1%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate

Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.55–0.85%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate

Polyglyceryl-3 stearate~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 stearate

Oleic acid~0.5–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness

More about Oleic acid

Cocos nucifera oil~0.35–0.6%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil

Silica~0.6–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica

Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.45–0.65%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Undaria pinnatifida extract~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Undaria pinnatifida extract

Xanthan gum~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Potassium sorbate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Citric acid~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Sodium benzoate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Terminalia arjuna extract~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Terminalia arjuna extract

Centella asiatica flower/leaf/stem extract~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica flower/leaf/stem extract

Hydrolyzed rice protein~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Hydrolyzed rice protein

Maltodextrin~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin

Sodium phytate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium phytate

Lecithin~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Corallina officinalis extract~0.2–0.4%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants

More about Corallina officinalis extract

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Tocopheryl acetate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Alanyl glutamine~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Alanyl glutamine

Arginine~0.1–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine

Oligopeptide-177~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Oligopeptide-177

Sodium chloride~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride

Phenylalanine~0.1–0.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Phenylalanine

Sisymbrium irio seed oil~0.05–0.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Could help reduce inflammation due to high content of linolenic acid

More about Sisymbrium irio seed oil

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Panthenol, Ethyl oleate, Ethylhexyl polyhydroxystearate, Squalane, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides, Niacinamide, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Polyglyceryl-3 stearate, Oleic acid, Cocos nucifera oil, Silica, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Hydrogenated lecithin, Undaria pinnatifida extract, Xanthan gum, Potassium sorbate, Citric acid, Sodium benzoate, Terminalia arjuna extract, Centella asiatica flower/leaf/stem extract, Hydrolyzed rice protein, Maltodextrin, Sodium phytate, Lecithin, Corallina officinalis extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Tocopherol, Alanyl glutamine, Arginine, Oligopeptide-177, Sodium chloride, Phenylalanine, Sisymbrium irio seed oil

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Augustinus BaderThe Eye Cream GWPYOUR PRODUCT	OlayTotal Effects Eye Transforming Cream	First Aid BeautyEye Duty Niacinamide Brightening Eye Cream	mixoonbean eye cream
Match	—	79%	77%	77%
Price	—	$29.80	$32.16	$22.50
Shared key ingredients	—	4 of 15	7 of 15	3 of 15
Key difference	—	Petrolatum	Linoleic Acid	Adenosine
Irritancy	Medium	Low	Medium	Low
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"Augustinus Bader - The Eye Cream GWP" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Panthenol, alanyl glutamine, arginine, glycerin and hydrolyzed rice protein in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (arginine, cocos nucifera oil, squalane, coco-caprylate/caprate and hydrogenated vegetable glycerides) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 3.00% - 3.60% concentration. In this concentration, Panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e, lecithin, jojoba oil and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate

Irritation risk

This product does not contain known common irritants and is suitable for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 18 studies and safety reviews.

Augustinus BaderThe Eye Cream GWP

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