APLB Derma Recipe 45% Facial Cleansing Foam

APLB Derma Recipe 45% Facial Cleansing Foam

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Cleansing
Lauric acid, Myristic acid + 6 more
Cleanses gently
What the product description says
“This cleansing foam helps deeply cleanse the face with a rich foam.”
Source: Yesstyle

This product works by removing dirt and oil from the surface of the skin. It uses a combination of mild cleansing agents (glycol distearate, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, lauric acid, lauryl betaine, myristic acid, propylene glycol laurate, sorbitan olivate, stearic acid) and should be able to cleanse the skin gently. Still keep in mind that any cleansing can disrupt the skin barrier, and most people do not need to cleanse their skin more than once per day.

Lauric acidEffect: HighHelps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishes~6.6–8%
Myristic acidEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic~3.8–4.6%
Lauryl betaineEffect: HighHelps water and oil mix together~3.1–3.8%
Stearic acidEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~1.9–2.3%
Glycol distearateEffect: HighHelps water and oil mix together~1.4–1.7%
Propylene glycol laurateEffect: High~1.4–1.7%
Sorbitan olivateEffect: HighHelps oil and water mix together~0.7–1.1%
Hydroxypropyl methylcelluloseEffect: HighUsed to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the formulation~0.25–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract, Oenothera biennis flower extract + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 23 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hamamelis virginiana leaf extractA plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritatingHigh21%
Propolis extractA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritatingHigh7%
Ulmus davidiana root extractA plant root extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might have an anti-inflammatory effect and could help neturalize free radicals in skinHigh~0.55–0.8%est.
Oenothera biennis flower extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.55–0.8%est.
Melaleuca alternifolia leaf extractAn essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.4–0.65%est.
Artemisia princeps extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.35–0.6%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lackingMedium17%
Lauric acidHelps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishesMedium~6.6–8%est.
Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenicMedium~3.8–4.6%est.
Lauryl betaineHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~3.1–3.8%est.
Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~2.3–2.8%est.
Glycol distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~1.4–1.7%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.6–0.95%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.4–0.6%est.
Solanum melongena fruit extractEggplant fruit extract. Might have some anti-oxidant effectMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Hydroxypropyl methylcelluloseUsed to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the formulationMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Lauric acidHelps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishes3/5~6.6–8%est.
Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic3/5~3.8–4.6%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract21%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating

More about Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract
Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract17%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lacking

More about Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract
Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Lauric acid~6.6–8%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
CleansingAntibacterialAnti-blemish

Helps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishes

More about Lauric acid
Propolis extract7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

A complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating

More about Propolis extract
Glycerin~5–6.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Myristic acid~3.8–4.6%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic

More about Myristic acid
Lauryl betaine~3.1–3.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Lauryl betaine
Potassium hydroxide~2.3–2.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide
Stearic acid~1.9–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Propylene glycol laurate~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Propylene glycol laurate
Glycol distearate~1.4–1.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glycol distearate
Sodium chloride~1–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride
Sorbitan olivate~0.7–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
1,2-hexanediol~0.6–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Butylene glycol~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Pinus palustris leaf extract~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Ulmus davidiana root extract~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant root extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might have an anti-inflammatory effect and could help neturalize free radicals in skin

More about Ulmus davidiana root extract
Oenothera biennis flower extract~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Oenothera biennis flower extract
Pueraria lobata root extract~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Melaleuca alternifolia leaf extract~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Melaleuca alternifolia leaf extract
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-blemish

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Artemisia princeps extract~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties

More about Artemisia princeps extract
Centella asiatica extract~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Nelumbium speciosum flower extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Solanum melongena fruit extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Eggplant fruit extract. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Solanum melongena fruit extract
Hydrolyzed collagen extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Squalane~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Beta-glucan~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan
Ascorbic acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the formulation

More about Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Disodium edta~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Propanediol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Hydroxyacetophenone~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Parfum~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Limonene~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Citral~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Ingredient list view

Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract, Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract, Water, Lauric acid, Propolis extract, Glycerin, Myristic acid, Lauryl betaine, Potassium hydroxide, Stearic acid, Propylene glycol laurate, Glycol distearate, Sodium chloride, Sorbitan olivate, 1,2-hexanediol, Butylene glycol, Pinus palustris leaf extract, Ulmus davidiana root extract, Oenothera biennis flower extract, Pueraria lobata root extract, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Artemisia princeps extract, Centella asiatica extract, Nelumbium speciosum flower extract, Solanum melongena fruit extract, Hydrolyzed collagen extract, Squalane, Sodium hyaluronate, Beta-glucan, Ascorbic acid, Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Disodium edta, Propanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Parfum, Limonene, Citral

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$24.00 Out of stock
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
APLBDerma Recipe 45% Facial Cleansing FoamYOUR PRODUCTTONYMOLYMaster Lab Cica Foam CleanserBARULABBlack Clay Cleansing FoamBacielHydra Barrier Cica Foam Cleanser
Match—39%39%38%
Price—$24.50$13.00—
Shared key ingredients—8 of 157 of 158 of 15
Key difference—MadecassosideAgran OilCeramide Eop
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
View product Shop Shop Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 29 studies and safety reviews.

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APLB Derma Recipe 45% Facial Cleansing Foam
APLBDerma Recipe 45% Facial Cleansing Foam

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.