A'PIEU Madecassoside Cica Gel

A'PIEU Madecassoside Cica Gel

Efficacy100/100IrritancyLow

Works for

Evens skin tone
Niacinamide, Madecassoside + 1 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Strengthen skin barrier and provide whitening, wrinkle-improving effects to create bright, healthy, refreshed skin”
Source: Yesstyle

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: madecassoside.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.6–3.9%
MadecassosideEffect: LowAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~1.3–1.9%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.1–0.45%
Moisturizing
Niacinamide, Panthenol + 14 more
Works well
What the product description says
“A highly-enriched cica gel containing madecassoside to help treat, repair and soothe damaged skin from dryness.”
Source: Yesstyle

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, caprylyl glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: madecassoside, niacinamide, panthenol

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.6–3.9%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~1.5–2.2%
MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~1.3–1.9%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.8–5.8%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.55–1.25%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.35–0.8%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.75%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.3–0.7%
Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiablesKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.15–0.5%
Echium plantagineum seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin~0.1–0.35%
Caprylyl methiconeEffect: LowA type of silicone that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin~4.4–6.7%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.4–0.9%
Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~0.15–0.5%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.3–0.7%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.1–0.45%
AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.1–0.45%
Anti-aging
Niacinamide, Madecassoside + 3 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Strengthen skin barrier and provide whitening, wrinkle-improving effects to create bright, healthy, refreshed skin”
Source: Yesstyle

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: asiaticoside, centella asiatica leaf extract, madecassoside.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.6–3.9%
MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~1.3–1.9%
Centella asiatica leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.~0.4–0.95%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.35–0.8%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.3–0.7%
Anti-blemish
Niacinamide, Centella asiatica leaf extract + 1 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Formulated with madecassoside that helps heal damaged skin and blemishes while strengthening the skin's natural acid mantle.”
Source: Yesstyle

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.6–3.9%
Centella asiatica leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.~0.4–0.95%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.1–0.45%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Madecassoside, Asiaticoside + 2 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~1.3–1.9%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.35–0.8%
AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.3–0.7%
Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing~0.1–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 11 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missingHigh~0.1–0.3%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.9–1.4%est.
MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~1.3–1.9%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~1.1–1.7%est.
HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.55–1.3%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.55–1.25%est.
Centella asiatica leaf extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.Medium~0.4–0.95%est.
AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.6%est.
Echium plantagineum seed oilA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skinMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.3–0.75%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Centella asiatica leaf water~23–34%
Formula
Glycerin~3.8–5.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Caprylyl methicone~4.4–6.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin

More about Caprylyl methicone
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~3.6–5.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Niacinamide~2.6–3.9%
Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
1,2-hexanediol~0.9–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Panthenol~1.5–2.2%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Madecassoside~1.3–1.9%
Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~1.1–1.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Dipropylene glycol~0.9–1.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol
Hydroxyacetophenone~0.55–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.55–1.25%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Centella asiatica leaf extract~0.4–0.95%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.

More about Centella asiatica leaf extract
Water~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Asiaticoside~0.35–0.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside
Caprylyl glycol~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Caprylyl glycol~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Adenosine~0.3–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Disodium edta~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Allantoin~0.1–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Cetearyl alcohol~0.3–0.75%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Stearic acid~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.1–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Octyldodecanol~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol
Echium plantagineum seed oil~0.1–0.35%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin

More about Echium plantagineum seed oil
Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing

More about Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract
Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables~0.15–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables
Ingredient list view

Centella asiatica leaf water, Glycerin, Caprylyl methicone, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Niacinamide, 1,2-hexanediol, Panthenol, Madecassoside, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Dipropylene glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Centella asiatica leaf extract, Water, Asiaticoside, Caprylyl glycol, Caprylyl glycol, Adenosine, Hydrogenated lecithin, Disodium edta, Allantoin, Cetearyl alcohol, Stearic acid, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Octyldodecanol, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables

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$10.36
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$24.99
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
A'PIEUMadecassoside Cica GelYOUR PRODUCTBANOBAGIMilk Thistle Repair LotionSKIN&LABEctoin Recovery Gel CreamBeplainCicaterol Moisturizer
Match—87%84%80%
Price$10.36$21.42+$11.06$20.34+$9.98$25.20+$14.84
Shared key ingredients—8 of 106 of 106 of 10
Key difference—Copper Tripeptide-1Ceramide NpMadecassic Acid
Irritancy Low Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
View product Shop Shop Shop

More alternatives: haruharu US Centella 5% Niacinamide Radiance Gel CreamTOSOWOONG Centella Asiatica Leaf Water Cream

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Product summary

"A'PIEU - Madecassoside Cica Gel" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (panthenol, glycerin and caprylyl glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, caprylyl glycol, octyldodecanol and pentylene glycol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • We love that this moisturizer contains a good concentration of niacinamide 3.60% - 5.40%. Niacinamide is a perfect active in a moistruizer because it helps calm down inflamation in skin and support the skin barrier. More than that, it is helpful for most common skin concerns: it helps regulat oil production, help reduce acne and clogged pores, improve skin tone and prevent pigmentation marks. It also helps fight photodamage.
  • Adenosine 0.15% - 0.55%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).
  • Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiaticoside 0.15% - 0.60% and madecassoside 0.40% - 1.00% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
  • An effective concentration of Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 1.10% - 1.60%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e and allantoin

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains actives that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be low. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 1800.00KSH in Kenya, from 22.00A$ up to 52.71A$ in Australia, at around 16.70$ in the United States and for 25.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.