What's In My Jar
Anua Heartleaf 78% Soothing Cream
Anua

Anua Heartleaf 78% Soothing Cream

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Panthenol, Ceramide np + 23 more
Works well
What the product description says
“A moisturizing cream formulated with 78% houttuynia cordata extract that helps soothe sensitive skin and protect the skin from external irritations.”
Source: INCIDecoder

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, arginine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np, panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.15–0.65%
Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.15–0.65%
Propylheptyl caprylateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~3.1–4.6%
Laminaria japonica extractKey activeEffect: HighSeaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties~1.9–2.9%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~1.2–1.8%
Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.35–0.75%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.35–0.8%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.35–0.8%
AlanineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.15–0.5%
Avena sativa kernel flourKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA type of colloidal oatmeal. Can contain potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Is effective in supporting skin barrier~0.15–0.65%
Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.5%
ProlineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.15–0.55%
LysineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.5%
TyrosineKey activeEffect: High~0.1–0.45%
ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.1–0.4%
Aspartic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.5%
CysteineKey activeEffect: HighMight help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation~0.1–0.35%
FructooligosaccharidesKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.5%
GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.1–0.5%
HistidineKey active· HumectantEffect: High~0.1–0.45%
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.1–0.5%
IsoleucineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function~0.1–0.45%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~4.1–6.1%
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~2.5–3.8%
AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.1–0.45%
Evens skin tone
Alanine, Cysteine
Not delivered

This product contains ingredients (alanine, cysteine) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

AlanineEffect: LowAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.15–0.5%
CysteineEffect: LowMight help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation~0.1–0.35%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Centella asiatica extract, Ficus carica fruit extract + 3 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (centella asiatica extract, cysteine, ficus carica fruit extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~1.2–1.8%
Ficus carica fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect~1–1.5%
CysteineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation~0.1–0.35%
Eclipta prostrata leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that is mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~1.5–2.3%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.5%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Centella asiatica extract, Aspartic acid + 2 more
May help

This product contains aspartic acid, centella asiatica extract, lysine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~1.2–1.8%
Aspartic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.5%
LysineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.5%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Eclipta prostrata leaf extract, Ethyl menthane carboxamide
Medium risk
We flagged 10 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Eclipta prostrata leaf extractA plant extract that is mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effectHigh~1.5–2.3%est.
Ethyl menthane carboxamide—High~0.15–0.55%est.
MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationMedium~23–35%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~2.2–3.3%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skinMedium~2.5–3.8%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~1.2–1.8%est.
Ficus carica fruit extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effectMedium~1–1.5%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~0.35–0.75%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswaxHelps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)Medium~0.2–0.75%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Laminaria japonica extractSeaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties3/5~1.9–2.9%est.
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Licorice pH Balancing Extreme Moisture Cream 55ml
ACWELL Licorice pH Balancing Extreme Moisture Cream 55ml
Higher efficacy · 100/10057% match
$21.03
Panthenol Barrier Cream
COSNORI Panthenol Barrier Cream
Higher efficacy · 100/10054% match
$23.00
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Houttuynia cordata extract78%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Houttuynia cordata extract
Methylpropanediol~23–35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Methylpropanediol
Propylheptyl caprylate~3.1–4.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Propylheptyl caprylate
Butylene glycol~4.1–6.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
1,2-hexanediol~2.2–3.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Polyglyceryl-6 distearate~2.5–3.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-6 distearate
Laminaria japonica extract~1.9–2.9%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Seaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Laminaria japonica extract
Eclipta prostrata leaf extract~1.5–2.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that is mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Eclipta prostrata leaf extract
Centella asiatica extract~1.2–1.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Ficus carica fruit extract~1–1.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect

More about Ficus carica fruit extract
Cucurbita pepo fruit extract~0.6–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cucurbita pepo fruit extract
Acmella oleracea extract~0.45–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Acmella oleracea extract
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Jojoba esters~0.35–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Cetyl alcohol~0.35–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)

More about Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax
Water~0.2–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Squalane~0.35–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Panthenol~0.15–0.65%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Menthyl pca~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Menthyl pca
Ethyl menthane carboxamide~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Ethyl menthane carboxamide
Fructooligosaccharides~0.1–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Fructooligosaccharides
Beta-glucan~0.15–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan
Allantoin~0.1–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid~0.1–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin

More about Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
Glycine~0.1–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine
Ceramide np~0.15–0.65%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Aspartic acid~0.1–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles

More about Aspartic acid
Leucine~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Leucine
Alanine~0.15–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking

More about Alanine
Lysine~0.1–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Lysine
Arginine~0.1–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine
Tyrosine~0.1–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Tyrosine
Phenylalanine~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Phenylalanine
Valine~0.1–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Valine
Proline~0.15–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Proline
Isoleucine~0.1–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function

More about Isoleucine
Histidine~0.1–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Histidine
Cysteine~0.1–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Might help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation

More about Cysteine
Methionine~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Methionine
Avena sativa kernel flour~0.15–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of colloidal oatmeal. Can contain potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Is effective in supporting skin barrier

More about Avena sativa kernel flour
Silica~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Ingredient list view

Houttuynia cordata extract, Methylpropanediol, Propylheptyl caprylate, Butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Laminaria japonica extract, Eclipta prostrata leaf extract, Centella asiatica extract, Ficus carica fruit extract, Cucurbita pepo fruit extract, Acmella oleracea extract, Hydrogenated lecithin, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Jojoba esters, Xanthan gum, Cetyl alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Water, Squalane, Panthenol, Menthyl pca, Ethyl menthane carboxamide, Fructooligosaccharides, Beta-glucan, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Glycine, Ceramide np, Aspartic acid, Leucine, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Valine, Proline, Isoleucine, Histidine, Cysteine, Methionine, Avena sativa kernel flour, Silica, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
AnuaHeartleaf 78% Soothing CreamYOUR PRODUCTACWELLLicorice pH Balancing Extreme Moisture Cream 55mlCOSNORIPanthenol Barrier CreamKrave BeautyMochi Berrier Moisture Cream
Match—57%54%53%
Price—$21.03$23.00$32.00
Shared key ingredients—12 of 204 of 205 of 20
Key difference—NiacinamideMadecassosideVitamin B12 (Synthetic)
Irritancy Medium Medium Low Low
Drying alcohol— Contains drying alcohol ——
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Product summary

"Anua - Heartleaf 78% Soothing Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, avena sativa kernel flour and fructooligosaccharides in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, avena sativa kernel flour, jojoba esters, arginine and squalane) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide np 0.15% - 0.65%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: allantoin

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 34 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Modelmdpi.com
  3. 3
    Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica mdpi.com
  5. 5
    Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblastsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  6. 6
    Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herbaema.europa.eu
Anua Heartleaf 78% Soothing Cream
AnuaHeartleaf 78% Soothing Cream
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Find on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.