Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
Product Summary
"Anua - Heartleaf 78% Soothing Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, avena sativa kernel flour and fructooligosaccharides in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, avena sativa kernel flour, jojoba esters, arginine and squalane) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide np 0.15% - 0.65%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
Irritation risk
This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
A moisturizing cream formulated with 78% houttuynia cordata extract that helps soothe sensitive skin and protect the skin from external irritations.
Source: N/A
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
alanine, arginine.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, squalane.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np
An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin
An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles
A type of colloidal oatmeal. Can contain potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Is effective in supporting skin barrier
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin
An amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
Seaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
Might help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation
Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
Anti-aging
This product contains aspartic acid, centella asiatica extract, lysine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (centella asiatica extract, cysteine, ficus carica fruit extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
Might help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A plant extract that is mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effect
Evens skin tone
This product contains ingredients (alanine, cysteine) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking
Might help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 75/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Anua Heartleaf 78% Soothing Cream | Current | - | |
 COSNORI Panthenol Barrier Cream | 54% | $16.74 | |
 SKIN&LAB Vitamin B Hydrating Gel Cream | 52% | $12.78 | |
 STEAMBASE Squalane Moisture Restoring Cream | 52% | $31.00 | |
 Barr Centella Calming Barrier Cream | 52% | $18.57 | |
 I'm from Rice Cream | 51% | $38.00 |
Key Actives
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
Might help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation
An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Seaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function
An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin
An amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function
A type of colloidal oatmeal. Can contain potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Is effective in supporting skin barrier
Potential irritants
A plant extract that is mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effect
Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)
Comedogenic ingredients
Seaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties
All ingredients
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin
Seaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties
A plant extract that is mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effect
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect
Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.
Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin
An amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function
Might help neutralize free radicals in skin and might be helpful against hyperpigmentation
A type of colloidal oatmeal. Can contain potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Is effective in supporting skin barrier
Ingredient list view
Houttuynia cordata extract, Methylpropanediol, Propylheptyl caprylate, Butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Laminaria japonica extract, Eclipta prostrata leaf extract, Centella asiatica extract, Ficus carica fruit extract, Cucurbita pepo fruit extract, Acmella oleracea extract, Hydrogenated lecithin, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Jojoba esters, Xanthan gum, Cetyl alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Water, Squalane, Panthenol, Menthyl pca, Ethyl menthane carboxamide, Fructooligosaccharides, Beta-glucan, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Glycine, Ceramide np, Aspartic acid, Leucine, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Valine, Proline, Isoleucine, Histidine, Cysteine, Methionine, Avena sativa kernel flour, Silica, Ethylhexylglycerin
- The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediols
- Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Model
- Centella asiatica in cosmetology
- Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica
- Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts
- Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herba
- Contact dermatitis due to Madecassol
- The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial
- Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- β-Glucans: Multi-Functional Modulator of Wound Healing
- Anti-Wrinkle Therapy: Significant New Findings in the Non-Invasive Cosmetic Treatment of Skin Wrinkles with Beta-Glucan
- Skin Health Promotion Effects of Natural Beta-Glucan Derived from Cereals and Microorganisms: A Review
- Anticancer properties of low molecular weight oat beta-glucan – An in vitro study
- A critical review on production and industrial applications 2 of beta-glucans
- Improving skin function with CM-glucan, a biological response modifier from yeast
- Preparation, characterization, and biological properties of β-glucans
- Characterization of a new beta(1-3)-glucan branching activity of Aspergillus fumigatus
- Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin
- Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humans
- Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic review
- Effect of Topical Application of Glycine and Proline on Recalcitrant Leg Ulcers of Prolidase Deficiency
- Functional glycine receptor in cultured human keratinocytes
- Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- Acetyl aspartic acid, a novel active ingredient, demonstrates potential to improve signs of skin ageing: from consumer need to clinical proof
- In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmness
- Combination of amino acids reduces pigmentation in B16F0 melanoma cells
- Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin
- Local rhamnosoft, ceramides and L‐isoleucine in atopic eczema: a randomized, placebo controlled trial
- Histidine and/or Histidine Derivative for the Treatment of Inflammatory Skin Diseases
- Safety Assessment of α-Amino Acids as Used in Cosmetics
- The Potential Uses of N-acetylcysteine in Dermatology: A Review