"Anua - Heartleaf 78% Soothing Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, avena sativa kernel flour and fructooligosaccharides in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Ceramide np, avena sativa kernel flour, jojoba esters, arginine and squalane in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide np 0.15% - 0.65%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: allantoin

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

What can the product work for?

Does not work for

Evens skin tone

Moisturizing

What does the product description say?

A moisturizing cream formulated with 78% houttuynia cordata extract that helps soothe sensitive skin and protect the skin from external irritations.

Source: N/A

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, arginine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np

ceramide np 0.15% - 0.65%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

jojoba esters 0.35% - 0.75%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

alanine 0.15% - 0.5%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking

Anti-aging

This product contains aspartic acid, centella asiatica extract, lysine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

lysine 0.1% - 0.5%

Irritation risk: