AESTURA

AESTURA A-Cica 365 Calming Cream

Name: AESTURA - A-Cica 365 Calming Cream
Brand: AESTURA

Efficacy50/100IrritancyLow

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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

15 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“A soothing cream infused with cica ingredients to calm irritated skin down while keep your skin moisturized for 48 hours.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, glucose.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalene, phytosterols.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: madecassoside, panthenol

PhytosterolsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function~0.1–0.5%

SqualeneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~2.1–3.2%

Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.35%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.6–4%

MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.1–0.45%

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~3.5–5.2%

GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.05–0.25%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.7–2.6%

Diisostearyl malateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin~1.3–2%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.45–1.05%

Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.6%

Stearic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.45–1%

Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.3–0.75%

Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.4–0.9%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.15%

Anti-blemish

2 ingredients credited for this claim

Weak support

What the product description says

“Formulated with Madecassocide and Beta Glucan to relieve blemishes in 7 days.”

Source: Yesstyle

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.35%

Lauric acidEffect: LowHelps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishes~0.1–0.35%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - squalene also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.1–0.45%

SqualeneKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~2.1–3.2%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.15%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

This product contains madecassoside. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.1–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

12 flagged ingredients

Low risk

We flag 12 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.55–1.3%est.

Diisostearyl malateHelps to soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.3–2%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.9–1.35%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.55–1.25%est.

Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.4–0.95%est.

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.75%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.6%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.55%est.

MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.1–0.45%est.

PhytosterolsLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier functionMedium~0.1–0.5%est.

Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenicMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Lauric acidHelps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishesMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.1–0.35%est.

Lauric acidHelps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishes3/5~0.1–0.35%est.

SqualeneAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast2/5~2.1–3.2%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.7–2.6%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Propanediol~4.8–7.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Panthenol~3.5–5.2%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Glycerin~2.6–4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Squalene~2.1–3.2%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast

More about Squalene

Cetearyl alcohol~1.7–2.6%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

1,2-hexanediol~0.55–1.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Diisostearyl malate~1.3–2%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Diisostearyl malate

Glyceryl stearate citrate~1.1–1.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.9–1.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.55–1.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Tromethamine~0.45–1.05%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine

Glyceryl stearate~0.45–1.05%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Cetearyl glucoside~0.4–0.95%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.35–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Glyceryl caprylate~0.4–0.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate

Stearic acid~0.45–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate~0.35–0.75%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate

Palmitic acid~0.3–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Disodium edta~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Sorbitan isostearate~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate

Madecassoside~0.1–0.45%

Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside

Phytosterols~0.1–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Lipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function

More about Phytosterols

Beta-glucan~0.1–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan

Glucose~0.05–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose

Myristic acid~0.1–0.35%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic

More about Myristic acid

Lauric acid~0.1–0.35%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

CleansingAntibacterialAnti-blemish

Helps water and oil mix together. Has anti-bacterial properties that might be helpful in preventing blemishes

More about Lauric acid

Tocopherol~0.05–0.15%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Ingredient list view

Water, Propanediol, Panthenol, Glycerin, Squalene, Cetearyl alcohol, 1,2-hexanediol, Diisostearyl malate, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Tromethamine, Glyceryl stearate, Cetearyl glucoside, Hydrogenated lecithin, Glyceryl caprylate, Stearic acid, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, Palmitic acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium edta, Sorbitan isostearate, Madecassoside, Phytosterols, Beta-glucan, Glucose, Myristic acid, Lauric acid, Tocopherol

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Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	AESTURAA-Cica 365 Calming CreamYOUR PRODUCT	Etude HouseSoon Jung Hydro Barrier Cream 75ml (Tube)	Real BarrierIntense Moisture Hyaluronic Cream	Dr.Reju-AllAdvanced LC-Ceramide Barrier Cream
Match	—	61%	59%	57%
Price	$30.99	$31.07	$19.19−$11.80	$22.90−$8.09
Shared key ingredients	—	3 of 6	4 of 6	4 of 6
Key difference	—	Polymethylsilsesquioxane	Ceramide Np	Niacinamide
Irritancy	Low	Low	Low	Low
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, "AESTURA - A-Cica 365 Calming Cream" works well for moisturizing the skin. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. AESTURA - A-Cica 365 Calming Cream ticks this box. Humectants in this product (panthenol, glycerin and glucose) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Phytosterols, squalene, cetearyl alcohol, diisostearyl malate and glyceryl caprylate in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassoside 0.10% - 0.45% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
An effective concentration of Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 3.50% - 5.20%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e and stearic acid

Irritation risk

This product does not contain known common irritants and is suitable for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be low. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 29.50£ in the United Kingdom and for 30.99$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 27 studies and safety reviews.

1
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
2
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
3
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Squalene and its potential clinical useseuropepmc.org
5
Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology mdpi.com
6
Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxidesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
7
The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
Safety Assessment of Tromethamine as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
9
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
10
Protective effect of madecassoside on H2O2-induced oxidative stress and autophagy activation in human melanocytesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Madecassoside, a triterpenoid saponin isolated from Centella asiatica herbs, protects endothelial cells against oxidative stressonlinelibrary.wiley.com
12
Madecassoside Inhibits Melanin Synthesis by Blocking Ultraviolet-Induced Inflammationmdpi.com
13
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
14
The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trialliebertpub.com
15
Stability Study of the Active Constituents in the Centella asiatica Extract Formulationstandfonline.com
16
β-Glucans: Multi-Functional Modulator of Wound Healingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
17
Anti-Wrinkle Therapy: Significant New Findings in the Non-Invasive Cosmetic Treatment of Skin Wrinkles with Beta-Glucanonlinelibrary.wiley.com
18
Skin Health Promotion Effects of Natural Beta-Glucan Derived from Cereals and Microorganisms: A Reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
19
Anticancer properties of low molecular weight oat beta-glucan – An in vitro studysciencedirect.com
20
A critical review on production and industrial applications 2 of beta-glucanssciencedirect.com
21
Improving skin function with CM-glucan, a biological response modifier from yeastonlinelibrary.wiley.com
22
Preparation, characterization, and biological properties of β-glucansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
23
Characterization of a new beta(1-3)-glucan branching activity of Aspergillus fumigatusncbi.nlm.nih.gov
24
Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Functionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
25
The fatty acid profile of the skin surface lipid layer in papulopustular rosaceancbi.nlm.nih.gov
26
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
27
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu

AESTURAA-Cica 365 Calming Cream

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